When my father in law passed there was a stove downstairs. Well I redid it but I have conflictions of what type of stove it is because I can't find it anywhere online. Anyone have any insights to what this stove was used for? Thanks in advance
![[Hearth.com] Gem stove](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/295/295700-ccc1c528280c458b62b6575e1735e809.jpg?hash=rc2_KlWDTA "[Hearth.com] Gem stove")
![[Hearth.com] Gem stove](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/295/295699-a07e9bde4bc4f2e8fb7e40b327c3ca22.jpg?hash=FfBD8XWBeM "[Hearth.com] Gem stove")
Gem stove
- Thread starter Mandapanda43
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
It's a coal-burning parlor stove. The flue connection needs redoing. It should not be done with galvanized warm-air fittings.
The type is a “Cylinder Stove“.
The ring around the middle is a boot warmer. Before central heating there were a few stoves throughout the home, and would be fired where the family would spend time. Coals could be taken for a metal box as a bed warmer, or used in a box in your buggy or first motorized vehicles that didn’t have heat. The finial on top swings away on most stoves for a cook top.
You “can” burn wood in any coal stove, but not efficiently. Coal requires lots of air to come up through the fire bed and is burned on the grate. The level is filled to the top of burner pot. Only crack the upper intake. It should have a flue damper to control draft from being too strong depending on chimney.
Wood burning will destroy the stove by overheating it. Only open the bottom intake when starting. Use the upper intake when fire is established. Depending on chimney, it will get too much air leakage around doors, so the flue damper is the only way to slow it down. Use a magnetic pipe thermometer about 18 inches above stove to know what temperature to run it. The thermometer will have burning zones of too cool or too hot on it.
As stated above , do not use galvanized pipe indoors. The zinc burning off is toxic and causes “metal fume fever”. It is also not the minimum thickness required for stove connector pipe. (24 gauge min.) Code requires 3 screws at each pipe joint. Your pipe appears to be backwards in pics. The upper pipe needs to be male end down into the lower pipe. This allows any condensed water vapor from combustion to stay inside pipe and drip down to be consumed in stove.
Your building code does not allow the installation of any appliance without a UL Label. Most states have adopted the International Family of Codes, (ICC) and the Mechanical Code is what requires all appliances to be UL Listed., and where you will find venting and chimneys. You can claim it was existing and use it safely if installed as per NFPA 211 Standard in US, but many insurance companies require UL Listing as well.
The pipe appears to reduce in size in your photo of pipe. No reduction of venting is allowed by code smaller than stove outlet.
The ring around the middle is a boot warmer. Before central heating there were a few stoves throughout the home, and would be fired where the family would spend time. Coals could be taken for a metal box as a bed warmer, or used in a box in your buggy or first motorized vehicles that didn’t have heat. The finial on top swings away on most stoves for a cook top.
You “can” burn wood in any coal stove, but not efficiently. Coal requires lots of air to come up through the fire bed and is burned on the grate. The level is filled to the top of burner pot. Only crack the upper intake. It should have a flue damper to control draft from being too strong depending on chimney.
Wood burning will destroy the stove by overheating it. Only open the bottom intake when starting. Use the upper intake when fire is established. Depending on chimney, it will get too much air leakage around doors, so the flue damper is the only way to slow it down. Use a magnetic pipe thermometer about 18 inches above stove to know what temperature to run it. The thermometer will have burning zones of too cool or too hot on it.
As stated above , do not use galvanized pipe indoors. The zinc burning off is toxic and causes “metal fume fever”. It is also not the minimum thickness required for stove connector pipe. (24 gauge min.) Code requires 3 screws at each pipe joint. Your pipe appears to be backwards in pics. The upper pipe needs to be male end down into the lower pipe. This allows any condensed water vapor from combustion to stay inside pipe and drip down to be consumed in stove.
Your building code does not allow the installation of any appliance without a UL Label. Most states have adopted the International Family of Codes, (ICC) and the Mechanical Code is what requires all appliances to be UL Listed., and where you will find venting and chimneys. You can claim it was existing and use it safely if installed as per NFPA 211 Standard in US, but many insurance companies require UL Listing as well.
The pipe appears to reduce in size in your photo of pipe. No reduction of venting is allowed by code smaller than stove outlet.
The connector needs to be either black-steel, 24 ga stove pipe or stainless stovepipe. It shouldn't be reduced in size.
Similar threads
