generator recommendation

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OK, so now looking at a Honda 6500isa, with a concern that this may not be enough to get my 3/4hp well pump going (170 feet down the hole). Honda is offering a free APC 10 cicruit transfer switch right now with the deal if you buy through their eStore- full retail $3999. The transfer switch I believe to be included in the deal is an APC UTS10BI (could be wrong) which I've found on the web for around $420- $460. Do Honda generators dealers usually give a little on price, or are they locked to Honda pricing?
 
I have a friend with that exact setup and a 250' well. The Honda handles it easily.
 
Redox, that link still works but the forum doesn't seems to handle long urls, or whatever, so you have to cut and paste:
http://ecatalog.squared.com/pubs/Electrical Distribution/Load Centers/Accessories, Homeline (HOM, LK, PK, QOM)/1100HO0301.pdf

On that transfer switch, which to my uneducated way of thinking seems very nifty but maybe too complicated with electronics, maybe vulnerable?
Plus, the well pump will take 2 breaker positions, and one each for the furnace, sump pump, stove fan, microwave, refrigerator, etc, that might not really leave much left for other stuff-those breakers get used up quick.

I think you should measure the surge current of the big loads, like I didn't do the first time. so you aren't guessing, and compare with the specs of the generator. I actually looked on the web for the specs of that unit and I didn't come up with anything, but that just might mean I'm not too good at searching.
 
OK, I found it! For some reason, their website chokes on that URL with Firefox.

The P/N is QOCGK2 for the QO panel and lists for $70 and allows you to backfeed the whole panel off the generator. I think I will go pick one of these up as I have been using this unsafe and very non code compliant method for a while now. I have been taking the wires off the generator when it is not in use to prevent any possibility of a cross connect, but this appears to be a good solution. Thanks for the info!

Grainger has a nice manual transfer switch that performs this function, but it runs around $500. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3ZB17 I have put one of these in for a buddy who has a 25KW PTO generator for his tractor and it works well. We "accidentally" started his 5 to AC unit and couldn't figure out where all the current was going! One problem is that it can't tell you when the utility power comes back on, so I wired up a neon indicator on the utility side to see what's going on.

The manual switches are good if you have a portable generator and need to get it out of the garage and hook it up. The automatic switches are a luxury, unless you NEED the power to stay on. The electronics actually run on 12 volts off the generator and are immune to most electrical surges. They control all starting and stopping functions as well as the transfer back and forth. They start around $1200, but are worth it if you have someone who may not be able to handle things on their own. I am looking for one for my parents as their emergency subpanel is maxed out and they want more on it. They also travel in the winter and worry about power failures.

The Kohler spec sheet is here: http://www.kohlerpower.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/g4097.pdf It gives you all the particulars on the engine as well as fuel consumption data. This is not a cheap generator, but if emergency power matters, I don't think there is a better tool for the job.

Chris
 
BeGreen said:
I have a friend with that exact setup and a 250' well. The Honda handles it easily.
I guess yall know that the depth of the well doesn't matter. It's the depth of the water in the well, i.e. the head differential, that has to be pumped.
 
^ correct me if I'm wrong but does the depth really matter? Every electric engine has a surge when it 1st turns on...then it's running at a reduced wattage...Yes? So what does it matter if the depth is 35ft or 150ft?
 
Too funny, I have the same champion gen set highbeam. Couldn't beat the price and like you said it runs quiet and very clean current. I did get a propane conversion kit for it about 230 bucks. no drilling required and can use both gas or propane.
 
Glacialhills said:
Too funny, I have the same champion gen set highbeam. Couldn't beat the price and like you said it runs quiet and very clean current. I did get a propane conversion kit for it about 230 bucks. no drilling required and can use both gas or propane.


Oooooh, where did you source the propane kit? and is there any difference in running/operation when on LPG?
 
Here ya go Highbeam; http://www.propane-generators.com/ The champion runs quite a bit smoother and a lot cleaner on propane (no fouling/ dust/ dirt pulled into float bowl like when the gen ran out of gasoline). Also no worries when ya loose your power when its ten below and you go to fire her up and find a gummed up carb cause ya haven't used it in a year or two. it also starts a lot easier when it cold out on propane.
 
Thanks glacial, I have been reading and found that our 3500 watt gensets will run about 24 hours on a single standard sized BBQ tank of propane. The RV guys have been also making the conversions. Very cool to have the choice of LPG, NG, or gasoline depending on what's available or even the cheapest at the time.
 
I have several generators on the farm. The portable is 6kw will do essentials in my parents house (well, oil boiler, freezer, fridge and lights). Then I have 2 25kw PTO driven they work good older one is 20 years old works everytime. The big one I had to build a building around it. It's 100kw 400 amp, power is 454 ci propane its hooked up to a automatic Asco transfer switch. I bought it about 5 years ago it was a cell tower trade in only had 150 hours on it. I think I paid about 5K for it fortunatly I have hardly used it I think it might suck some propane if I ever had to use it for an extended period. I know one of the mechanics where I bought it and they just got a bunch of trade in units about 1/2 that size and they want around 5k for them. They can be set up for propane or NG.
 
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