What are you running off your 1800/2500 watt generator during a power outage? After i got rid of my old generator a few years ago it was to big and to be sitting on the deck all the time im looking at getting a nice small gen/invertor that i can toss in the shed when not needed.. Winter time if needed it will definitely be firing up the pellet stove, possibly the fridge it the power is out for to long, and maby the tv/computer. By my calculations i should be able to run this easily especially after everything has done its startup.
Generator
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cbscout
Member
I’ve been wanting to get a new generator myself. Trade in my regular one for a new inverter generator. WEN makes their 56380i that has a running wattage of 3400 running watts. It is also only 57 dba loudness. Saw it in a video next to a Honda generator and it is super quiet, just like the Honda.
My most recent generators are a pair of champion 2500 peak output inverters but I’ve never joined them for combined wattage output. They’re dual fuel and I use cheap propane to run them. I backfeed the entire house panel with a legal interlock and the little 2500 easily powers two fridges and one freezer, all lights, all computers and televisions. All while on propane which lowers output wattage. A pellet stove is a small load.
These small suitcase sized units are easy to carry and stick up on a shelf. Super quiet and much more fuel efficient than the larger 3000+ watt options.
We’re supposed to be preparing for power outages with all of the wars, low reservoir levels, aging infrastructure, population growth, etc. A small efficient dual fuel inverter to cover the essentials is perfect.
These small suitcase sized units are easy to carry and stick up on a shelf. Super quiet and much more fuel efficient than the larger 3000+ watt options.
We’re supposed to be preparing for power outages with all of the wars, low reservoir levels, aging infrastructure, population growth, etc. A small efficient dual fuel inverter to cover the essentials is perfect.
Costco sells (or used to sell) the champion inverter generators, I got a 3100 watt for $899 about 5 years ago. Use it for camping mostly. No issues with it yet.
I think I have the same one from Costco, gasoline only. Has been a great performer and easily runs the AC in our RV. Solid performer if you want or need a big dog. It’s much harder to move around than the current generation of lower output suitcase inverters.
Champion makes an electric start, dual fuel, 3400 watt inverter now that is the modern version.
That is true, is think mine is 80lbs plus fuel, I don't find it particularly difficult to move around though, but my wife won't touch it.
Champion now makes a 4500 watt peak 3500 watt continuous inverter model that still sells for $899. It would probably be a little better suited for home backup use.
If you needed that high output the 4500 watt from champion would be on my short list. It’s still just 120 volt though so no well pumps or electric ovens, water heaters, etc. I went the other way and realized that I don’t need even 3000 for home backup. Fuel efficiency and portability are way better on the 2500 and smaller units. There is a lot of benefit to right sizing a home backup unit.
All refrigeration, pellet heater, all lights, all computers and television. Easy on a 2500. Couple exceptions, a typical microwave or coffee pot can be a 1500 watt hit. That 1500 watts is the majority of a 2500 watt inverter’s constant output rating. If you require use of these extra 1500 watt appliances then I recommend the 3000-3500 watt next step up.
thanks for the info exactly what i was looking for... Just like the last one i purchased when i get this one i will probably never use it once its here other than running it to keep the fuel fresh.. Time to start watching the sales
You should be fine. We have a propane-fired Yamaha 2400w inverter generator. It runs 2 fridges, a freezer, some lights and the TV, + house internet without a problem. Our generator gets used 1-2 times a year. It should be exercised every month or two also. Out here the longest outage was almost a week. At that time no gas stations or propane refill stations had power for several days. In the case of an earthquake, this could extend to weeks, so I want a miserly fuel sipper.
I highly value the dual fuel option and use propane mostly because it’s much cleaner burning and keeps the oil fresher for those 30 minute exercise runs. Less emissions and currently a cheap fuel. Propane stores very well. Gasoline is the backup for me.
My 2500 is rated for 30 hours runtime on one bbq tank at a partial load.
Some gasoline only inverters can be upgraded to use gaseous fuels but it’s an extra cost and usually has outside junk.
Ya im not interested in dual fuel.. That's why i switched to a pellet bbq i was tired of running out of propane during a cook and forgetting that i emptied the spare tank a month ago..LOL... for some reason all the stores that sell propane in my area no one is on shift to fill the tanks at suppertime... right when everyone is running out
Then just use the gasoline option but know that you could steal a propane tank from a neighbor if needed.
I own at least 5 different 20-30lb portable propane tanks and cook on a wood pellet grill!
If gasoline only then I’d be looking at the predator series inverter gensets from harbor freight.
I keep a dedicated 40 gallon propane bottle for the generator. That is our backup reserve. For shorter outages, we have 3 BBQ bottles so there is always one that is full. That's what the generator has run on for the past 5 yrs.
40# or 40 gallon? I’ve thought of getting a semi portable propane tank just for genset duty. Oh and a longer hose. The OEM propane hose is only a couple feet long.
I went out and checked. You're right. It's a 100# tank, 24 gallon capacity. The tank is about 4 ft high and I have a longer hose for it. We also have an 80 gallon tank for the propane cooktop. That lasts for 2-3 yrs between refills so in a pinch I could rig that up.
I have the champion 4500/3500 model,have it wired to a 2- 15amp breaker panel then fed underground to my cabin,from there I have various plugs through the place.also have a plug in the crawlspace so I can put a heater if power goes out in the winter.
Poindexter
Minister of Fire
I have a suitcase sized Honda that is rated for 18-19 amps at 120 volts. Gasoline only. I do store about 40 gallons of stabilized gasoline in the shed in case we are without fuel for 2 weeks, I can see all my average patient census and keep the boiler running with the generator if I need too. Need the boiler running to have DHW, and the generator output has enough headroom to also keep the fridge running if we keep the door closed, and we can charge portable electronics.
I do rotate the gas through my truck every summer so the fuel in the shed is never more than one year old. I am looking seriously at upgrading propane storage, I have one BBQ tank now, have to fill it a couple times per year. We are getting a bit more serious about canning garden vegetables this year, I am planning to do that outdoors on the burner for the turkey fryer.
I do rotate the gas through my truck every summer so the fuel in the shed is never more than one year old. I am looking seriously at upgrading propane storage, I have one BBQ tank now, have to fill it a couple times per year. We are getting a bit more serious about canning garden vegetables this year, I am planning to do that outdoors on the burner for the turkey fryer.
I just got into canning and the canners were very specific about not using a turkey fryer. Too many btu output. Would melt/damage the aluminum vessel.
It really takes very little heat for proper canning. Maybe a Coleman camp stove would be more suitable.
Poindexter
Minister of Fire
Did my first run yesterday. The manual on mine ( All American 921) limits outdoor burners to 24 k btu/hour in the manual. The turkey fryer burner I have is rated 58k btu/ hour. It is mismatch, the manual on my gasketless model with Al to Al tapered seal is specifically concerned about heating the kettle faster than the lid can keep up.
I have read the Presto made canners are limited to 12k btu/ hour burners. I have actually been reading up a fair bit on this this weekend. Once my canner is up to temp and pressure ( I canned salmon for my first run, 110 minutes at 10 psi), I can hold it at processing heat with a pretty small flame, but bringing a 21 quart pressure canner up to temp takes some fuel.
I am already planning to start a thread in the DIY section about modifying or planning an outdoor burner to use with a pressure canner. There seems to be a particulary large amount of chaff among the wheat when reading up on the internet about propane, and there seems to be two systems for measuring orifice size for propane burner heads. Probably take about a week, but I am on this. If you find a wok burner at either or 12k or 30k btu/ hour you can move the thing outdoors, I had about 30-40 # of material held at 240dF for almost two hours Saturday, no way am I bringing that in the house.
Now back to generators - tanked propane is at a higher pressure than hard line natural gas, so you would need to change your orifice (and re-adjust the air shutter) on your burner, err, generator, when switching fuels.
I use about a 3000 watt Yamaha inverter to run my whole house. Kuuma blower, 2 fridges, 1 big chest freezer, and all my misc electronics, reasonable lights, and vampire loads. Handles the surge loads, and loafs most of the time. No well pump or A/C though. You'd have to provide for that if you need them.
I also have a 650 watt(!) Honda I inherited that I run during the day (no fridges or heaters) when it's going to be a long time (or very short) before grid power comes back. It's almost silent, uses almost no gas, keeps the internet connection and laptops going, plus keeps all the 9v batteries from going dead in my smoke detectors and whatnot. I can also turn on the light in the windowless bathrooms to pee, which is a plus! But it takes discipline to not trip out the breaker. If I forget that I'm on the small gen, hit a remote and try to open a garage door, I immediately realize that I f' ed up. And, if it's days without power, I have to switch gen's periodically to keep the fridges and freezers happy. It's also not enough to handle the surge from my wood furnace blower, so if I want that, it's the bigger Yamaha.
I also have a 8000 watt coleman with a BS Vanguard that can run all my 220 loads if I need to, but the noise can wake the dead, and it drinks gas. If I'm not running the welder and the compressor, or the electric dryer I no longer have, it's massive overkill.
I also have a 650 watt(!) Honda I inherited that I run during the day (no fridges or heaters) when it's going to be a long time (or very short) before grid power comes back. It's almost silent, uses almost no gas, keeps the internet connection and laptops going, plus keeps all the 9v batteries from going dead in my smoke detectors and whatnot. I can also turn on the light in the windowless bathrooms to pee, which is a plus! But it takes discipline to not trip out the breaker. If I forget that I'm on the small gen, hit a remote and try to open a garage door, I immediately realize that I f' ed up. And, if it's days without power, I have to switch gen's periodically to keep the fridges and freezers happy. It's also not enough to handle the surge from my wood furnace blower, so if I want that, it's the bigger Yamaha.
I also have a 8000 watt coleman with a BS Vanguard that can run all my 220 loads if I need to, but the noise can wake the dead, and it drinks gas. If I'm not running the welder and the compressor, or the electric dryer I no longer have, it's massive overkill.
The three generator solution is similar to the two saw solution. Not a bad idea at all. Redundancy for break downs and better fuel consumption by matching the loads are great benefits.
That 650 is tiny though. Must be a real fuel sipper. My version of the fuel sipper is the 2500 suitcase inverter that’s really 2000 continuous output. 30 hours per bbq propane tank.
Natural gas and propane run different offices because of the pressure, but also due to different air fuel ratios needed for proper combustion. Larger orfices and lower pressures provide the richer mixture required for NG.
Orfices should all be the same, they will be referenced either by an orfice number or by the diameter in inches or mm. That being said tread with caution when changes orfices in the venturi, it can throw the air fuel ratio out of wack. I did this to my BBQ, went from 40k btu to 50k by enlarging the 4 orfices, and I'm maxed out on the air shutters and still just on the rich side of stoich.
You may have the best luck with an adjustable regulator and a good inH20 gauge, this will give you the most accurate heat control. As we all know propane camp stoves often have poor fine heat control. Just open the stove burner to wide open and control the flame with the regulator and gauge, should give the most repeatable results and avoids messing with the orfices.
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