Getting Heat to the Master Bedroom

[Woodstove]

I have a family room and kitchen area that gets too warm. Then I have what I can best describe as a L shaped hallway at the end of which is the master bedroom. I've done a decent amount of reading on the site and the wall fans won't work. The convection idea was interesting. I'm wondering if anyone has put an air duct in their attic or under the house with a fan to push the cold air from the room to the stove, or had the hot air blow to the room? It makes more sense to me to pull the cold air from the room to the fireplace which will create airflow and warm up the hall and room. Is this worth trying? If anyone has done it, have they had decent results? Any tips on doing this? Any posts or website links would be good too.

I'm using a Bluetooth temperature tracker to see if its approximately colder in the attic or under the house crawl space. I'd prefer using the attic and assume it'd be warmer overall.

These are the items or something similar from Home Depot that I would use. I'd wire it into a stove heat switch for activation.

Amazon product ASIN B078HY6Y8C
Amazon product ASIN B01C82T0QC

 

[Woodsplitter67]

I did an inline fan on a wall switch at my house. Im in a ranch and did all the work in the attic
I draw the warm air from the stove room ceiling and blow it into the farthest rooms.. I used Flex duct... Insulated... I think my fan is 14 inch.. works better than the fan thing and running the whole house air system. I dont use it alot. when its cold out or like yesterday 35 mph winds and cold.. I run it here and there.. makes a big difference.. Go with a decent size fan..

 

[AntRhonda/CA]

I did an inline fan on a wall switch at my house. Im in a ranch and did all the work in the attic
I draw the warm air from the stove room ceiling and blow it into the farthest rooms.. I used Flex duct... Insulated... I think my fan is 14 inch.. works better than the fan thing and running the whole house air system. I dont use it alot. when its cold out or like yesterday 35 mph winds and cold.. I run it here and there.. makes a big difference.. Go with a decent size fan..

I need to put in a downdraft system too -- 10' ceilings and max time on ladder to change lightbulb about 5 minutes before fainting from the heat. The old way was drainpipe and an internal (squirrel cage) fan but can't seem to find anything to fit. Can you describe how you put your system together in more detail? Thanks.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

I have a ceiling box 16x16 with a 14in flex duct attached to it with a filter after the great.. picture 1... the flex duct goes to a booster fan.. I believe 14in. From there it gets split up and runs to the kids bedroom and the master bathroom... which are the farthest rooms from the stove room. They exit the ceiling through a vent.. Picture 2.. it is controlled by a regular wall switch and turned on and off when needed. Im running it right now as it is 10 degrees When I start it up this morning the air running along the ceiling was over 100 degrees.. the air exiting is in the md to upper 80s..

 

[AntRhonda/CA]

I have a ceiling box 16x16 with a 14in flex duct attached to it with a filter after the great.. picture 1... the flex duct goes to a booster fan.. I believe 14in. From there it gets split up and runs to the kids bedroom and the master bathroom... which are the farthest rooms from the stove room. They exit the ceiling through a vent.. Picture 2.. it is controlled by a regular wall switch and turned on and off when needed. Im running it right now as it is 10 degrees When I start it up this morning the air running along the ceiling was over 100 degrees.. the air exiting is in the md to upper 80s.. View attachment 269669View attachment 269670

Thanks!

 

[Woodstove]

I'm planning on using an 8" diameter duct and a longer fan run time. I'm going to use about 75'. I'm wondering if 8" R4.2 instead of R6 ducting is ok given that I'm using the extra heat, so a little energy loss is ok? Also because there are a few turns and R6 will be more rigid. I think once it warms up a smaller diameter may be better at staying warm? I'm going to use a Meross wifi outlet switch to control the fan, that way its easy to auto shut off and turn on. Any thoughts?

 

[Woodstove]

Thanks!

Didn't realize its that efficient, that'll be nice. What is the attic temp its going through? Do you remember the R-rating for the ducting?

 

[electrathon]

I'm planning on using an 8" diameter duct and a longer fan run time. I'm going to use about 75'. I'm wondering if 8" R4.2 instead of R6 ducting is ok given that I'm using the extra heat, so a little energy loss is ok? Also because there are a few turns and R6 will be more rigid. I think once it warms up a smaller diameter may be better at staying warm? I'm going to use a Meross wifi outlet switch to control the fan, that way its easy to auto shut off and turn on. Any thoughts?

If you move your heated air outside the insulated envelope of the house you will loose a lot of heat. R8 and R4.2 are both crap numbers. You should have around R30 in your attic now, you need to be in that range if you don't want to loose heat. If possible, lift your insulation and run your new duct under the attic insulation. Cover it with insulation, a lot of it. Then buy some more and add it too. You will never have too much, too little and you will be cooling the hot air and blowing cold air into the room, a loose/loose situation. Enough insulation and it will barely loose any heat. 75 degree air is cold blown on your skin, 55 degree air after loosing 20 degrees of heat will do a good job of cooling the bedroom down farther, and cool off the stove room too. If you plan on moving cold air to the stove, go under the house. Move hot air, through the attic. Hot air rises, cold air falls.