I have done the job allot more than a few times and the only way to do it is top down block by block.Ok.. I’ll look into it more before I do anything. I’ll find someone who has done the job before and hopefully at least a few times and see what they say.
Hire a professional who is insured.
Very true but it would be far cheaper than the fallout from his proposed solution.Not everyone can afford to hire a professional.
Especially all the folks who will not be receiving a paycheck tomorrow.
Huh.. well shheeoott.... maybe the chimney will stay then. The good thing is that I am in no hurry to do anything with it. It could stay and I have heard that if it starts to get in bad shape above the roof I could hire a mason to have it encapsulated on that portion in cement and that’d last around 20 years... long enough where someone else would likely have to worry about it then.
I could take out a section of wall and do it the right way myself I’m sure. I’ve done enough drywall work at my own places to do it but I’m not sure if getting rid of the eyesore and a roof opening would be worth the effort. The house was built in 1978 and I bet it wasn’t much longer after then that they stopped using the big block chimneys.It's not a binary choice between hiring a pro and playing Chimney Jenga. Sheathing is 20 bucks a board and drywall is 10. He can take it down from the top without spending thousands.
If you wait till it is in bad shap it won't last 20 years at all. And it would be cheaper to just relay the top few block anyway.Huh.. well shheeoott.... maybe the chimney will stay then. The good thing is that I am in no hurry to do anything with it. It could stay and I have heard that if it starts to get in bad shape above the roof I could hire a mason to have it encapsulated on that portion in cement and that’d last around 20 years... long enough where someone else would likely have to worry about it then.
Block chimneys are still used quite often on housesI could take out a section of wall and do it the right way myself I’m sure. I’ve done enough drywall work at my own places to do it but I’m not sure if getting rid of the eyesore and a roof opening would be worth the effort. The house was built in 1978 and I bet it wasn’t much longer after then that they stopped using the big block chimneys.
That won't address the water heater issue.Maybe I missed something...why not line the chimney? If there's not enough room then bust out the clay liner...
The clay liner is 8" OD and there have to be 2 liners in it, one for the WH and one for the wood stove from what I have learned here. There isn’t enough room for them so for now I’ll just leave the WH hoooked up to the chimney. We have soft water up here and water heaters can last a long time if I want to just go with the way it is it could be there a long time. Especially if I put a new annode rod in the water heater.Maybe I missed something...why not line the chimney? If there's not enough room then bust out the clay liner...
I don’t know. I’m going to make the 70 mile trip to Menards in a bit here to get some other things and I’ll see if they have one of the stoves on display.Is that stove the one with no air control?
Now that I look at the enlarged photo it seems to have an air control lever after all. I was thinking of a different stove. Hope it works well for you!I don’t know. I’m going to make the 70 mile trip to Menards in a bit here to get some other things and I’ll see if they have one of the stoves on display.
Yes there is a air control above the door and I am not getting the stove for the basement on account of chimney problems.Now that I look at the enlarged photo it seems to have an air control lever after all. I was thinking of a different stove. Hope it works well for you!
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