Got my High Emisivity Coating on (Pics)
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![[Hearth.com] Got my High Emisivity Coating on (Pics)](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/78/78687-87f3c48cc407ee8c06affd97d5c30b9a.jpg?hash=T_U5sO_Y1V "[Hearth.com] Got my High Emisivity Coating on (Pics)")
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Its complicated so Google it , its the stuff they put on the space shuttle black tiles too keep the heat off the astronauts during re-entry. Trying to keep more heat inside the firebrick area.
Look up High emisivity not Low Emisivity.
You know me always trying things.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/a-refractory-coating-from-outer-space.92798/
It will keep operating like usual heat out the top and front, the firebrick was already insulating the firebox I am just taking it a bit further. I dont have insulating firebrick in my stove like some do.
That will keep most of the heat in the stove.
Might cause you problems when you really want a lot of heat.
Might cause you problems when you really want a lot of heat.
Don't think I'll be putting any of that in either of my woodstoves, but I'm seriously considering having a custom suit made of the material for me just in case I ever lose my spaceship and have to re-enter the Earth's atmosphere on my own.
The plan is that I can burn hotter and get more of the Btu's out of the smoke gases at a lower input air setting . There was a scientific study done that showed that 500 degree secondary air and 1000 degree secondary gave increased heat generation. Due to the increased temps in the box 500 gave a 7-8 percent boost in heat output and 1000 gave a 22-23 percent boost in heat output.
So that tells me if the fire is hotter it burns more efficiently getting more BTU's extracted from the smoke gases. These stoves are not perfect there is more btu's left. My stove is 76% efficient there is another 24% in there somewhere.
As far as getting the heat extracted , radiating heat is a function of potential difference as in what is the temperature difference between the stove and room. If the stove is burning hotter at any one setting of the input air this potential difference is greater then it equates to more heat radiating out the stove. These type stoves, the major portion of the heat radiating out of the stove radiates out the top and front of the stove.
I hope by having a hotter firebox I can run the stove at lower air flows thru the stove and not have my secondaries die out on me. As slowing the air flow thru the stove will also increase the ability of the stove to radiate more heat out in the room due to more residual time for the heat in my stove before it gets flushed up the flue.
So you have two factors working for you,.... higher efficiency means more BTU's at any one primary air setting, higher btu's means bigger potential difference between the stove temp and room temp equals greater heat radiating, then you have the ability to lower the input air to have less air flow thru the stove slowing the flushing of heat up the flue. I think that was more than Two factors working for you.
I have already put 1/4" inch 2300 deg ceramic insulation behind my fire brick and noticed the performance boost in the stove. A couple things I noticed is the ash left is lighter and fluffier and the coating on the window is more like a dust that can be brushed off rather than a coating that has to be scrubbed and cleaned off with a cleaner. WES999 also has noticed performance boost in his stove as thats who i got the idea from.
So that tells me if the fire is hotter it burns more efficiently getting more BTU's extracted from the smoke gases. These stoves are not perfect there is more btu's left. My stove is 76% efficient there is another 24% in there somewhere.
As far as getting the heat extracted , radiating heat is a function of potential difference as in what is the temperature difference between the stove and room. If the stove is burning hotter at any one setting of the input air this potential difference is greater then it equates to more heat radiating out the stove. These type stoves, the major portion of the heat radiating out of the stove radiates out the top and front of the stove.
I hope by having a hotter firebox I can run the stove at lower air flows thru the stove and not have my secondaries die out on me. As slowing the air flow thru the stove will also increase the ability of the stove to radiate more heat out in the room due to more residual time for the heat in my stove before it gets flushed up the flue.
So you have two factors working for you,.... higher efficiency means more BTU's at any one primary air setting, higher btu's means bigger potential difference between the stove temp and room temp equals greater heat radiating, then you have the ability to lower the input air to have less air flow thru the stove slowing the flushing of heat up the flue. I think that was more than Two factors working for you.
I have already put 1/4" inch 2300 deg ceramic insulation behind my fire brick and noticed the performance boost in the stove. A couple things I noticed is the ash left is lighter and fluffier and the coating on the window is more like a dust that can be brushed off rather than a coating that has to be scrubbed and cleaned off with a cleaner. WES999 also has noticed performance boost in his stove as thats who i got the idea from.
Let's say it achieves a 5% improvement in efficiency. How will you be quantifying the difference? Do you have the stove instrumented?
Interesting stuff, guessing you got it from Dynacote? How much did you have to use and what was your final cost to do so?
I am curious to see how long it takes for it to start breaking down with continuous use. (The shuttle only goes through once)
I am not looking to instrument the stove, I am just looking at this as a small tweak, cost me $20, and have used the stove enough and I hope to be able to notice small differences, for example it sure is easy to see a difference in really dry wood and wood that is just a little bit too much moisture. Just a little bit too much moisture tends to be a pain in the rear. The small cooling effect of extra moisture or a small increase in the ability to heat the stoves fire box or maintain secondaries at really low air input settings, these are things that are noticable . Its all about the heat that is why they insulated the firebox with fire brick in the first place.
I am using a Kiln and Forge refractory coating called ITC-100 which is also a high emissivity ceramic coating. Durability is reported to be really good and actually one of the main uses is to extend the life of the fire bricks in a Kiln which is much higher temps than a wood stove. Its most likely not as good of stuff as Dynacoat.
My warranty on my stove has ran out.
The coating may not increase the performance of the stove like the ceramic insulation. We will have to try it out and see. I just put it on last night.
I am just outlining why I am trying this.
If stove company could increase the efficiency of their stoves by a 5% margin they would charge you an extra $1000 for the stove, ok just kidding
From what I had read this has been out for a while, if it is cheap to add on I wonder why stove manufacturers have not started using it by now?
Maybe one of the stove reps on here would comment on this.
Maybe one of the stove reps on here would comment on this.
Some stoves designers did use the idea of helping firebox temps.
They used insulated pumice bricks instead of regular fire brick to help raise the fire box temps and help maintain fire box temps at lower settings.
Why would they use pumice bricks in that they are less durable, maybe cause the advantage out weighed the less durability.
More then one way to skin an animal (c...t).
They used insulated pumice bricks instead of regular fire brick to help raise the fire box temps and help maintain fire box temps at lower settings.
Why would they use pumice bricks in that they are less durable, maybe cause the advantage out weighed the less durability.
More then one way to skin an animal (c...t).
exactly, I'm still out on this one. Interesting read to say the least but I'd be on the fence to actually do it if I could. I'd be curious of what you have to say after say 2 months of constant burning and seeing what kind of results you get then. The video definitely helped me understand
If I cover my skin with this stuff, can I re-enter the earth's atmosphere naked? Do you think Red Bull will sponsor that?
-- Houston, I'm detecting that my dangly bits are getting mighty warm. Can you get a visual on that?
- This is Houston... No.
First Burn. Primary Air Completely Shut and Manual Flue Damper 3/4 ways closed to get this low burn mode.
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