Hand Splitting Technique

[DTrain]

So recently in threads there's been discussion about hand splitting vs power splitting. Lots of talk about the toll it can take on your body. I enjoy the splitting and I enjoy the sore muscles to a point. But I don't like joint pain or repetitive motion pain. I have tried to tweak my swing and my processing method to allow me to keep splitting with out suffering as much. Thought I'd share what I do.

First, the natural tendency is to raise the mail with your top hand near the head and the bottom hand near the foot and lift it up from there.



You can see that the right elbow takes the 8lbs at its max distance from the joint (f=mxd). And you open up your right shoulder.



Then you put a lot of weight and motion to one side of your body. When you repeat these motions the right elbow and shoulder take most weight and work.

I like to try to keep every thing in the middle.



Place both hands under the head and lift straight up. Both shoulders elbows and wrists sharing the load.



Then at the top. I slide my bottom hand down first and bring my top hand down next.



When I do this I try to keep a grip like a batter ready to bunt. Good control but loose. I think you can see my top hand isn't even completely around the handle. Let the tool take up the force and vibration. You already supplied the force in the down swing. No need to grip tight on impact. This saves the wrists and forearm fatigue. You can see my knees are bent. I continue to squat thru to impact. This keeps my back straighter and the quick squatting adds some velocity I believe.

After impact I return the maul to a Center position.



I slide my top hand toward the head. Then the bottom hand while the maul is inverted. Then with both hands at the head I turn the maul up right. And repeat! It's a few carefully choreographed motions that takes time to get down but it like anything becomes second nature.

I also split right on the ground. No unnecessary lifting. And I use a frame as some may have seen in another post I made.



These things allow me to split for a couple hours at a time and not feel too bad for it. I stop at the first sign of pain as well. Listen to the body!

I hope this is helpful. And let me know if you have any hand splitting tips to share!

 

[bboulier]

Even better - get a Fiskar's splitting axe. I found that to be a huge gain in efficiency.

 

[barmstrong2]

Vicodin. Better living through modern chemistry.

 

[DTrain]

Vicodin. Better living through modern chemistry.

Good movie! Sam Rockwell.

 

[barmstrong2]

Good movie! Sam Rockwell.

I think I might have picked that line up from Nick Nolte in North Dallas Forty some years ago. Lol

 

[DTrain]

I think I might have picked that line up from Nick Nolte in North Dallas Forty some years ago. Lol

It's the title if a newer movie about a pharmacist. Pretty funny

 

[DTrain]

Even better - get a Fiskar's splitting axe. I found that to be a huge gain in efficiency.

Hmmm.... I want to know more about this tool. The fiskars site really only says it's awesome. But not much else.

What where why is it good.

 

[TedyOH]

I'll give quick 3 week review on the Fiskars X27;
I've went from a home made 15 lb monster maul to an 8 lber, what a joy that was, then bought this Fiskars based on reading other reviews, it's a tad heavier than a standard axe and for it's weight I am really impressed on how well it will split. Now for what it will split, straight grain wood is where it shines - I find that if a round has any sort if knot in it, it will or may get hung up....But if you knock the knotty stuff in half or quarters with a heavy maul then knock off chips with the Fiskars you will have no problems - bottom line for me is fatigue, I can split probably 4 times as long with the fiskars vs the 8 lber. Oh yeah, the steel is very soft (and very sharp) so you have to stack rounds, run this axe in the ground a few times and you will ruin the edge....well worth the $50

 

[HowieSubGuy]

I'll give quick 3 week review on the Fiskars X27;
I've went from a home made 15 lb monster maul to an 8 lber, what a joy that was, then bought this Fiskars based on reading other reviews, it's a tad heavier than a standard axe and for it's weight I am really impressed on how well it will split. Now for what it will split, straight grain wood is where it shines - I find that if a round has any sort if knot in it, it will or may get hung up....But if you knock the knotty stuff in half or quarters with a heavy maul then knock off chips with the Fiskars you will have no problems - bottom line for me is fatigue, I can split probably 4 times as long with the fiskars vs the 8 lber. Oh yeah, the steel is very soft (and very sharp) so you have to stack rounds, run this axe in the ground a few times and you will ruin the edge....well worth the $50

I agree with everything said, TedyOH. I found that the SPEED of the splitter is much more important that the weight of the head of the maul/axe (see Newtons 2nd law), which is why (1) you can swing the Fiskars much faster and safer than a maul (2) you can swing this 2lb thing all day without killing your back (3) you find that your aim is much better, therefore confidence goes up, and trips to the ER go way down (4) you aren't whooped at the end of the day (5) most importantly, you can bring the axe straight above your head for the strike, instead of "going around your body" with an 8lb maul.

In short, my opinion: the Fiskars is a way safer, easier, and faster way to hand-split wood. Why use anything else? My $0.02.

 

[Woody Stover]

I don't like joint pain or repetitive motion pain. I have tried to tweak my swing and my processing method to allow me to keep splitting with out suffering as much.

I strained a muscle between my shoulder blade and spine and it's still not 100%, three years later. I don't hand-split the tough stuff, I break out the power splitter; Need to preserve this old body. I can swing roundhouse for a while but if I have to split for a long time I'll use a center swing. I hold the handle at the end with both hand and let the maul hang straight down behind my back with my elbows bent all the way. Then I'll squat and stand up to get the maul moving. I then pull my hands down toward the round, like I'm trying to stick the end of the handle into the round. Centrifugal force will throw the maul head out will pull the handle into line with my arms by the time it gets to the round. I'll see if I can get some pics. I can get a little more speed with the roundhouse motion so I use that if I need to.
The Fiskars has its place. It's just a lightweight ax, so if you are into some stuff that's harder to split, it doesn't have the arse to bust through and the head gets stuck in the round. Mine is lost in the woods somewhere so I just replaced it with a Michigan ax at half the price. My go-to tool is a 6# maul; Light enough to swing pretty easily, yet has enough inertia to bust through. I go to the 8-pounder if needed. I grind the leading edge to a more shallow angle.

 

[gerry100]

My technique about the same as the OP, after 38yrs and a million swings I actually don't know how I swing, it just happens.

Assume that accuracy and timing is there , increases in velocity exponentially increases impact energy while adding mass ( weight) increases are linear. So speed is the answer.

But, our physiology, both natural and individual, places limits on our swing speed. ie you can't swing a 1lb axe fast enough to make up for the lost mass nor can you make a maul massive enough to overcome the loss in speed. We basically have a terminal velocity with our swing.
I started with a 6lb and moved up to an 8lb about 20 yrs ago as my swing got more grooved. I think I'm getting the max impact energy deliverable from my body and an accurate swing.

I got to this point with a lot of sweat, wasted swings and broken handles.

If I were starting now, I'd try a Fiskars. Using sharpness and head shape the Fiskars allows a more easily controlled swing because of the lower mass and allows people without a lot of reps to split more wood sooner. Don't think it would do anything for me at this point

 

[jaoneill]

I now split 99% of my wood with hydraulics but have split more than my share with a maul over the last 45 years. I am sure this is nothing new here, but back when I was getting started an old timer clued me in to a trick that became second nature and served me well for years. A slight twist of the wrist as the leading edge hits the wood. It compounds the downward force with lateral force from the weight of the head. It also virtually eliminates having the edge stuck in a difficult piece.

 

[DTrain]

I agree with everything said, TedyOH. I found that the SPEED of the splitter is much more important that the weight of the head of the maul/axe (see Newtons 2nd law), which is why (1) you can swing the Fiskars much faster and safer than a maul (2) you can swing this 2lb thing all day without killing your back (3) you find that your aim is much better, therefore confidence goes up, and trips to the ER go way down (4) you aren't whooped at the end of the day (5) most importantly, you can bring the axe straight above your head for the strike, instead of "going around your body" with an 8lb maul.

In short, my opinion: the Fiskars is a way safer, easier, and faster way to hand-split wood. Why use anything else? My $0.02.

Hey, Thanks for that. And also to @TedyOH for the review. At 2lbs sounds about right that it can do a great job on straight grain stuff. And I would like a smaller tool to deal with small rounds, a couple inches around. The 8# is definitely like shooting squirrel with a shot gun with those small rounds. Dunno if I'll spend the $60 on a Fiskars for the few small ones I do have to split.

I never round house with my maul (8#), always straight up over my head then down. See pic.

@HowieSubGuy I used to live in Gales Ferry. I see you're SE CT. I miss kayak fishing in the Thames.

 

[DTrain]

My technique about the same as the OP, after 38yrs and a million swings I actually don't know how I swing, it just happens.

Assume that accuracy and timing is there , increases in velocity exponentially increases impact energy while adding mass ( weight) increases are linear. So speed is the answer.

But, our physiology, both natural and individual, places limits on our swing speed. ie you can't swing a 1lb axe fast enough to make up for the lost mass nor can you make a maul massive enough to overcome the loss in speed. We basically have a terminal velocity with our swing.
I started with a 6lb and moved up to an 8lb about 20 yrs ago as my swing got more grooved. I think I'm getting the max impact energy deliverable from my body and an accurate swing.

I got to this point with a lot of sweat, wasted swings and broken handles.

If I were starting now, I'd try a Fiskars. Using sharpness and head shape the Fiskars allows a more easily controlled swing because of the lower mass and allows people without a lot of reps to split more wood sooner. Don't think it would do anything for me at this point

Good point about the physiology. I'm 6'3" / 200# / 37 yo. But I feel like I don't have very stout wrists or elbows for extended splitting, that's why it's important for me to take care of the ergonomics of my swing. I think I'd like to try having 6# maul then. I can swing my 8# just fine, but may be able to get some faster head speed and have more endurance. Most of my wood is larger rounds and at least half has knots or wyes. So 2lbs won't work for that.

So far from the replies, I think I could refine the splitting processes by having splitting axe for small stuff, a 6# for general splitting and an 8# for nasty stuff.

 

[DTrain]

I can swing roundhouse for a while but if I have to split for a long time I'll use a center swing. I hold the handle at the end with both hand and let the maul hang straight down behind my back with my elbows bent all the way. Then I'll squat and stand up to get the maul moving. I then pull my hands down toward the round, like I'm trying to stick the end of the handle into the round. Centrifugal force will throw the maul head out will pull the handle into line with my arms by the time it gets to the round.
View attachment 164903 View attachment 164904

Boy Woody, if I'm imagining that description correctly, it sounds like I could perform that swing about 5 times before going to the doctor!! I know from my own swing when I want some more punch i'll tend to arch my back to get some whip action, and that hurts! I'll take a few extra swings at something with my normal swing if I must. I try my best not to over do it. Injury is not an option for me. I will however employ that swing if I'm ever at the county fair and want to win my darling a teddy bear at the "High Striker" game!

 

[sportbikerider78]

I just got frustrated because it is so hard to drink beer and have smoke when splitting by hand.

For me, I do not have rounds delivered at this point in the game. I typically go out somewhere on my property, drop a tree, buck it, and start splitting on site. This is where a splitter really shines. I don't have to find good footing, make sure I don't slip, make sure the round has a good solid surface...ect.

I can tow that splitter anywhere behind my ATV that I can safely drop a tree.

 

[DTrain]

I just got frustrated because it is so hard to drink beer and have smoke when splitting by hand.

For me, I do not have rounds delivered at this point in the game. I typically go out somewhere on my property, drop a tree, buck it, and start splitting on site. This is where a splitter really shines. I don't have to find good footing, make sure I don't slip, make sure the round has a good solid surface...ect.

I can tow that splitter anywhere behind my ATV that I can safely drop a tree.

Dammit..... Look at that! Even on a thread titled Hand Splitting Technique we got a power guy sticking his head in the door and yelling "get a splitter nerds!".

Kidding of course.... I would love to have a property were I could harvest my own wood. Good on ya!! And you're right about there being situations where a splitter is absolutely the right way to go.

 

[spirilis]

I now split 99% of my wood with hydraulics but have split more than my share with a maul over the last 45 years. I am sure this is nothing new here, but back when I was getting started an old timer clued me in to a trick that became second nature and served me well for years. A slight twist of the wrist as the leading edge hits the wood. It compounds the downward force with lateral force from the weight of the head. It also virtually eliminates having the edge stuck in a difficult piece.

That's something I want to get into with experience, don't have the muscle memory and accuracy yet but someday... It's the basic principle behind this rather pricey axe- http://www.leveraxe.com/

 

[drz1050]

So far from the replies, I think I could refine the splitting processes by having splitting axe for small stuff, a 6# for general splitting and an 8# for nasty stuff.

This is pretty much exactly what I do. The axe eye 6# maul is used 90% of the time. I also have a few wedges for the real big rounds.

 

[gerry100]

My maul almost never gets stuck, I do "break my wrist" downward at the end to get a little more speed.

Seems like an axe swing would benefit more from the side twist at impact.

( BTW - I think spliiting axes and mauls are two different animals and people like one or the other base on what they learned with , if I were to use an axe I think my swing would have to change a lot)

 

[gerry100]

Boy Woody, if I'm imagining that description correctly, it sounds like I could perform that swing about 5 times before going to the doctor!! I know from my own swing when I want some more punch i'll tend to arch my back to get some whip action, and that hurts! I'll take a few extra swings at something with my normal swing if I must. I try my best not to over do it. Injury is not an option for me. I will however employ that swing if I'm ever at the county fair and want to win my darling a teddy bear at the "High Striker" game!

View attachment 164914

Used my splitting experience to almost ring the bell. Those things have a viscous damper in them somewhere and are also designed that has to be hit at the right angle to work. That's why the skinny kid running it can ring the bell any time he wants, he knows the sweet spot.

 

[jatoxico]

I use the Fiskars on most everything and don't find a heavier maul to be a big benefit on knarly stuff. It is sometimes easier to set a maul or wedge and pound it through with a sledge though. I rarely take full force swings with whatever I'm using.

One thing I do on knots and crotches is to take advantage of how sharp the Fiskars axes are. Lay nasty stuff on it's side and cut through the knot. This is pretty effective.

 

[Woody Stover]

That guy in the pic is never gonna ring the bell with that swing! Terrible technique. For one, his elbows are bent, reducing his arc width. And he's not getting much speed because, in golf terminology, he's "swinging from the top"....."lost his lag" and "released too early." Look at the golf swing of a pro on slo-mo video; The club shaft doesn't come into line with his arms until he hands are almost to the ball. Half way down, the shaft is still at 90* to his arms.

 

[TedyOH]

That guy in the pic is never gonna ring the bell with that swing! Terrible technique. For one, his elbows are bent, reducing his arc width. And he's not getting much speed because, in golf terminology, he's "swinging from the top"....."lost his lag" and "released too early." Look at the golf swing of a pro on slo-mo video; The club shaft doesn't come into line with his arms until he hands are almost to the ball. Half way down, the shaft is still at 90* to his arms.

Those pink sandels don't help either.

 

[HowieSubGuy]

Hey, Thanks for that. And also to @TedyOH for the review. At 2lbs sounds about right that it can do a great job on straight grain stuff. And I would like a smaller tool to deal with small rounds, a couple inches around. The 8# is definitely like shooting squirrel with a shot gun with those small rounds. Dunno if I'll spend the $60 on a Fiskars for the few small ones I do have to split.

I never round house with my maul (8#), always straight up over my head then down. See pic.

@HowieSubGuy I used to live in Gales Ferry. I see you're SE CT. I miss kayak fishing in the Thames.

Yep, the Thames will be here whenever you want to visit. Question: where are you buying a $60 Fiskars? I got mine for $30 at homedepot.com two years ago. Shipped right to my house in two days.