Has anyone had this happen?

[lobsta1]

This is an Englander NC13 purchased in spring 2008. First fired Oct 2008. This was installed inside a fireplace, so could not get a clear sight of the top while in use. A few times I did notice the section in front of the round to oval adapter glowing. Found this crack when I hauled it out yesterday. Any comments?
Al

 

[BrowningBAR]

Good lord, how hot were you running that stove?

 

[BrowningBAR]

And why is it rusted? Is your chimney leaking?

 

[begreen]

I'm just guessing at this but if there was water coming down on a very hot stove could the temp differential eventually cause the crack?

 

[lobsta1]

I am using a round to oval Duravent adapter. It has an over sized rectangular base. I assume that rain driven water comes down inside the oval liner. (yes, I do have the Duravent tophat) In the winter it probably evaporates before it reaches the stove. In the summer with no heat it probably can make it to the stove top. I THINK what happened was the heat baffle was dislodged when I tried to fit some irregular shaped pieces inside. That left a gap at the rear of the baffle & I think the secondary burning was taking place on top of the baffle. Like I said I observed that section get red hot a few times. When I saw that, quickly gave it maximum dampering. The top is buckled in that front area where the crack is.
Al

 

[pen]

I observed that section get red hot a few times. When I saw that, quickly gave it maximum dampering. The top is buckled in that front area where the crack is.

Sorry to hear it. Definitely looks like it was overfired.

pen

 

[Pallet Pete]

WOW ! I am glad you guys are ok and it does look like it got ran too hot.

Pete

 

[MnDave]

When you consider the mechanism of failure, it is clear that the round outlet sleeve got so hot that it expanded enough to crack the plate at the thinest point.

Should be a simple welding repair. Have them grind a fillet before they weld. If the metal is more than 3/16 inches thick then do both the inside and outside and you will be as good as new (maybe better).

Do you use a temp gauge?

MnDave

 

[corey21]

Good lord!!

 

[BrotherBart]

To warp the 13 with that step bend in the top plate that sucker was for sure way too hot. When it warped enough at those temps something had to give. And did.

 

[BrowningBAR]

I wonder how hot it would get in here if I ran the 30 until the top was glowing red?

I'll put the over/under at 106 degrees.

 

[Danno77]

You say you hauled it out? Still have access to it? How hard would it be for me to convert my 12 to a 13? seems like someone around here did that once. If it's possible to do, then I might be interested in your burn tubes...

 

[Woody Stover]

I wonder how hot it would get in here if I ran the 30 until the top was glowing red?

You live in a sieve; 68*, tops.
So do I. I'm trying to work on that...

 

[BrowningBAR]

You live in a sieve; 68*, tops.
So do I. I'm trying to work on that...

Very true! But, I had the 30 rolling last night for the overnight burn and had the room touching 90. To make that SOB glow, I would guess I would need, what, another 400-500 degree increase in the stove top?

What temps would I need to make the top/collar glow? I'm seeing that temps need to be at about 700 degrees Celsius, which is about 1290 Fahrenheit.

 

[pen]

Very true! But, I had the 30 rolling last night for the overnight burn and had the room touching 90. To make that SOB glow, I would guess I would need, what, another 400-500 degree increase in the stove top?

What temps would I need to make the top/collar glow? I'm seeing that temps need to be at about 700 degrees Celsius, which is about 1290 Fahrenheit.

Not recommending this, but I can say by accident I've seen my stove (as read by my IR thermometer) head a few ticks over 900 before. Since we were there already, and I'm the curious type, I shut every possible light down and also blocked the glass as best I could looking for anything glowing.

No glowing to be found.

pen

 

[lobsta1]

To warp the 13 with that step bend in the top plate that sucker was for sure way too hot. When it warped enough at those temps something had to give. And did.

On the 13 there is no step bend on the top. Just 1/4" flat plate with a round exhaust port welded onto the top.
Al

 

[BrotherBart]

Correct. I was thinking of a different stove.

 

[begreen]

When fire and air can get behind the the baffle it can cause a bit of damage for sure if left unchecked. I would also have the liner inspected. It sounds like it could have been run at well above its rating for an extended period.

How tall is the liner on this stove?

 

[lobsta1]

There was 10' of oval Duravent & 5' of oval Duraflex with the insulated sleeve. You're right, the Duraflex was trash. I replaced it yesterday & now I have to see if a welder can repair the stove.
Al

 

[Woody Stover]

Very true! But, I had the 30 rolling last night for the overnight burn and had the room touching 90. To make that SOB glow, I would guess I would need, what, another 400-500 degree increase in the stove top?

What temps would I need to make the top/collar glow? I'm seeing that temps need to be at about 700 degrees Celsius, which is about 1290 Fahrenheit.

On my Englander 24 which is in my BIL's basement, I had a bit over 700 (surface meter which seems pretty accurate) on the front of the top step. The corner where it transitions from bottom step to the vertical portion was glowing faintly in the low light of the room. I shot it with the IR gun...think it was upper 700s. I forgot exactly, since I was focused on getting the stove cooled off! There's a plate inside the stove that directs hot gas toward that area...
Someone recently posted a "color of red/temp" chart and I think some faint glowing started in the 600s...

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