haugh stove no heat

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Micheal

New Member
Jan 15, 2015
10
pei canada
I have a haugh stove and can't get any heat out of it. Have hard wood that's been drying for two years and can have it blasting and the basement is cold. As soon as you open the stove door the heat is unbearable but cant seem to get it out of the stove. House is on a foundation. Small split entry 40 by 40. Have cleaned flue and put butterfly draft in. Still no luck. Small house and the wood stove is always on but still need to heat the house with electric baseboard. Don't know the model number but the stove was put in in 1995

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Get a stove top thermometer or some other way of getting a temp reading of the stove top (not glass or door). If the stove top is north of 500 then your basement may be sucking up the heat.

*BTW in that picture that wall on the right looks awfully close. What are the clearances for that stove of yours?
 
I have a similar stove in the work shop. Stove was gven to me for the same reason, no heat. Problem for me was the baffle was rotted out of it. Ripped it out and installed and sheet of metal and now I get heat. Take a look inside the stove and then try removing the stove pipe and look down at the baffle.
 
I will check the stove top temperature . and the baffle. There is large plate inside the stove that you can remove and clean. I thought that was the baffle?
 
Sounds kind of like the title of this thread should be: 'Hell Haugh no fury'. ::-)

Could just be the picture, but are the proper clearances being honored, especially on the right side?
 
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It may be a little different than mine but ultimately if you can remove that plate and see up through the chimney then yes that is the baffle. With mine the baffle was not removable or replaceable.
 
If the stove is not hot then all the heat could be going up the chimney and SKIN (good insight there) may be right on. If the stove is hot then it may be the basement install. Whole basement finished?
 
Basement is finished/insulated. And yes the picture a kinda making an optical illusion. And yes I figured I was losing all my heat up the chimney and put the butterfly draft in but no luck.
 
Basement is finished/insulated. And yes the picture a kinda making an optical illusion. And yes I figured I was losing all my heat up the chimney and put the butterfly draft in but no luck.
The butterfly will only really help with a overdraft issue. Heat will still head up the chimney if it has a direct path. Again mine is just for the work shop so I dont mind too bad.

Here is my shop stove pre modification.

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DSCF2043.jpg
 
For sure get a stove thermometer and check temps on the stove top and flue. If the stove top doesn't get hot, ie over 500F I'd BOTL for a newer stove with greater efficiency. No point in burning up wood if the stove is not producing good heat.
 
The butterfly will only really help with a overdraft issue. Heat will still head up the chimney if it has a direct path. Again mine is just for the work shop so I dont mind too bad.

Here is my shop stove pre modification.

DSCF2039.jpg




DSCF2043.jpg

I see a major problem right there, big party foul, do not keep the beer that close to the stove, the heat and cool downs will skunk it!!!!!
 
Lol, that pic was taken a few years ago during the summer. I like my Beer COLD so just empty's there. Not into the home brew, I have yet to have one that I can really enjoy. Thinking about making one again soon though as I have attempted it in the past. Might go with a red darker ale style and see how that turns out. I am a Beer lover through and through and have switch brands repetitively over the years, current go to beer is Bud. Anyway back on topic.......Micheal I just started up my stove shed and it went from -2 to +25 in about 1 hour (small 16x 24 shed) so the stove can produce the heat even with my cobbled together fix.
 
I just checked the stove top temperature and its only 130. After a fire going all day.
That won't work. But, look on the bright side, fixing or replacing the stove will probably be easier than redoing the whole basement. How about the baffles? Can you see them/it through the door or have to pop the flue?

PS there's a bunch of threads in the older stove forum on adding baffles to stoves that never had them like Fishers. Maybe an old post or someone there could point you in the right direction so you're not guessing. I recall even some temp setups with cement board but don't take my word on that. Good Luck let us know.
 
Make sure the baffle is all the way to the rear of the stove and that no flue gases are going up behind it.
 
There is the main baffle that is right inside the stove which you can remove. Its fine . but I will take the stove pipe off and see if there's anyone lookin down into the stove
 
I checked with a laser tempature reader. And the flue was 90 on one side of the butterfly and 75 on the other side
So just to be clear you're talking Celcius? So 265 F stove top, 195 F flue? Seems awfully cool, this single wall stove pipe? At 75 C above the key damper you should be able to put your hand on it, uncomfortable but not instant burn. Not looking for you to burn yourself but wondering if your readings are accurate.
 
I checked with a laser tempature reader. And the flue was 90 on one side of the butterfly and 75 on the other side

Something is not right with that picture. The flue and stove are kindling wood temperature. The problem is starting to sound a bit more like the wood or an operator problem. How much wood is going in the stove and what stage of the burn were these readings taken at?
 
At any given time I can put my hand on the pipe. And that is probly mid burn stage. And yes it is Celsius. I've run allot of different stoves growing up and furnaces. But this one is difderent. It gets no hoter than a furnace around the stove. Doesn't seem to release the heat. Seems too tight.
 
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