Heatmax 2 rust

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Update for this thread.Nick from sbi has helped me a lot with my rusting issues and they have also offered me an extended warranty on the firebox.Very pleased so far with the service from sbi as of recent.I had a barometric draft installed awhile back and it was calibrated to the specs in the manual.However i would like to permanently install a dwyer mark 2 for future measurments.I notice there are different models of the mark 2 can anyone suggest which model would be best for my heatmax 2?Also be nice to have some info on an install guidline i searched online and here but couldnt find much info.Thanks
 
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On the manometer it shows it only measures to -0.05
But in the heatmax manual ideal draft is -0.04 to -0.06
If my baro is no longer calibrated properly how can i check/adjust draft if the dwyer2 only measures to -0.05?
The 25 goes to zero...-0.04 to 0.06" will be 4 to ticks up from zero.
 
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edification- other than burning season , humidity will cause this to happen - the moisture will combine with the residuals of burning to form an acid. Many homes in the more northern areas of the states expericence huge temp swings in the early fall and in spring. humid air condenses on the tile and mortar walls of flues ( metal also) in the case of brick/stone the acid formed leaches out the lime from the mortar cause failure of the flue ( in plain steel rust) use of stainless flue pipes or liners resolves this issue mostly. Fire bricks are very porous and readily absorb humidity.
Back in the day when standing pilots were the norm this didn't present an issue as that little bit of warmth from the pilot light kept most of the humidity at bay- This issue raised its head big time when the switch to on demand spark starters for the pilot/ignition flame became the norm .
disectants- silca gel beads can be bought in bulk, There are those that change color when saturated with humidity. They can be reused by placing in oven at low heat for a couple hours to dry them back out. best bet for keeping humidity out of fire box
 
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The 25 goes to zero...-0.04 to 0.06" will be 4 to ticks up from zero.
Edit, that should read: -0.04 to 0.06" will be 4 to 6 ticks up from zero"
 
Edit, that should read: -0.04 to 0.06" will be 4 to 6 ticks up from zero"
What am i missing here?

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Below zero it looks like the scale only reads to -0.05?
Oh, I see what's going on here...yeah if you hook it up that way it only goes to -0.05...but if you hook up the tube on the other side, it will read to the right of zero instead.
 
Oh, I see what's going on here...yeah if you hook it up that way it only goes to -0.05...but if you hook up the tube on the other side, it will read to the right of zero instead.
It'll be like a positive suck power!

Yes extended warranty incase corrosion continues.Also materials to repair the issues thus far.

Whoa, so tell us about these "materials" to repair the issues. What's that?
 
It'll be like a positive suck power!



Whoa, so tell us about these "materials" to repair the issues. What's that?
So will this manometer work with the furnace?I have no idea as ive never dealt with draft measuring tools and just want to be certain im ordering the right model.
As for materials they are sending new ceramic papers,paint and a stainless cover to go over the pilot channel at the back of the firebox.They believe the rust was created from damp ceramic paper/bricks.I know its not ideal,however i feel better knowing they are standing behind the product giving me 10 yrs on the firebox.
 
So will this manometer work with the furnace?
Absolutely, if you look through the Tundra thread that I have a link to in my sig line below you will find plenty of people using the 25 on these machines...lots of people here are using them on boilers etc too...still have mine hooked up, its been used with something like 5 different machines now...
 
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Have the manometer on route.Doing some research before it arrives but i cant find any info on how hot the fire should be or wether the draft should be open or closed when im taking measurments and setting the baro?
 
Once you have a fire started and flue warmed up, the baro should keep the draft relatively where you set it.
 
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