Help: Advice on 6" Rigid Liner and insulation and transition to class A

[zzr7ky]

Hi


I’m trying to line into a straight masonry chimney. It has a 2” air gap around a square 12”x12” tile. The inside dimensions of the tile are 10”x10”. There is scaffolding to work from right now.


I’m planning a run of 14’ of rigid liner. Is there any reason I would not use this liner?

(broken link removed)

Local cost is more than double... I'd like to save the cahs and buy insulation.


I’m planning to use Saf-T Wrap insulation (for about $250). Is this wise?

Since this still leaves me 2’ short on stack height I’m planning to add 3’ of Selkirk class A to the top. Any advice on how to attach it would be appreciated.


I had a slow but fruitful weekend cutting the Heat-a-lator unit to accept 6” liner! It is done and plumb line straight top to bottom.


Thanks,
Mike P

 

[zzr7ky]

Hi -

I hope I have not breached any forum rules or customs... I realize that several of our generous contributors are retailers. If so my apologies.

If not I'd like some opinions, especially ideas on the transition from rigid to Class A at the top of the 12"x12" tile.

Thanks,
Mike P

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

You are not supposed to inclose class a chimney, no matter how short, in a enclosed chinney. Its not liner, its chimney. Why dont you buy another piece of single wall from the ebaY dealer? I would use another piece of rigid there.. Insulation is always good, not always needed, but never hurts to have it.

 

[zzr7ky]

Hi -

Thanks fo rthe response. I'm using rigid all the way up the masonry chimney; then adding 36" of Class A to get the 16' total hieght. So I'll still be using everything in within it's UL listing.

You all have really helped me a greeat deal with enlightened responses and citations for the various codes and requirements. Thanks!

Thanks again,
Mike P

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

Ok, i think i understand now, i thought you didnt have enough liner to finish the job, so what you are wanting to do is put class A on the top of the chimney and extend it. I only know simpson duravent parts, so you can go to there catalog and look at the transition plate and the anchor plate, I would think that you would use both. Check that out then look at the brand your using and see if they offer similar pieces. I dont know the extenda flue line, but that might be a better solution, check out senior frogs thread about extending his chimney.

 

[skypager]

Beat me to it MSG. The transition plate would be the piece.

The anchor plate is used for running class A directly off the the firebox of a prefab or a masonary box. Something I've never dealt with but I don't believe applies the this situation anyway.

Like MSG, I don't know about Selkirk and nothing jumped out at me after a quick browse through their online catalog. The Duratech piece MSG mentioned is on PG 15: (broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/docs/Catalogs/L930.pdf)

As far as using the saf-t-wrap its always a good idea and will help ensure best possible draft and best possible safety.

What is this chimney used for? What fuel and type of appliance?

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

i was thinking the transition plate would point down, liner attaches to it, anchor plate bolted to the transition plate, and class A snap into the anchor plate.

 

[skypager]

i was thinking the transition plate would point down, liner attaches to it, anchor plate bolted to the transition plate, and class A snap into the anchor plate.

Oh, I see now. On second look that does sound right. Oddly, I've never had to resolve a simular situation so never had either of these pieces in my hands. I guess they build chimnies tall here. :roll:

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

Im just guessing here, i havent put one in that way either. but looking at the catalog, its the only way i see it to work, and be strong enough. I mean, if there was a way to support it, a finishing collar and a 6689 single wall adapter would work too. but i dont know how you would hold it up.

 

[webbie]

Hi -

I hope I have not breached any forum rules or customs... I realize that several of our generous contributors are retailers. If so my apologies.

If not I'd like some opinions, especially ideas on the transition from rigid to Class A at the top of the 12"x12" tile.

Thanks,
Mike P

You might want to consider using an Extendaflue at the top instead of class A - it will look much nicer, provide the extension and a cap, and allow you to run your rigid liner right up inside it.

It would cost more, though.

One of the other forum members (Rhomemas) is doing this right now. We made up an adapter to go into the top of the extendaflue to mate with 6" chimney.

See the CC1212 (castings only) at:
http://www.extendaflue.com/images/linedrawingsflat.jpg

(About 450 for castings, cap and adapter).

 

[zzr7ky]

Hi -

That is essentialy what I'm doing. I've still got a couple pieces to lay hands on. Deer season starts tomorrow... Sparking project delay of at least a week.

I'll post the results when I'm done. I've really learned a lot and will have a dramaticly better result thanks to the help of the board.

ATB,
Mike P