Help making a decision please.

[1870farmhouse]

That's good news. Ideally, it would be better to elevate the new woodstove liner end to 12" above the basement flue. This will help prevent back-siphoning of smoke down the basement flue, which can happen due to negative pressure in the basement.

I mentioned I am covering the covering the basement flue(blocking) with sheet metal or something similar maybe copper. Then the flush mounted chimney cap over both flues. The basement flue is currently stuffed with rockwool insulation at the opening in the basement.

what do you think of the register/closure plate mated into the multi fuel adapter the English guy had going on?

And a photo of the Lopi Sheffield I just got into the house 20 minutes ago roughed into the firebox.

 

[begreen]

I mentioned I am covering the covering the basement flue(blocking) with sheet metal or something similar maybe copper. Then the flush mounted chimney cap over both flues. The basement flue is currently stuffed with rockwool insulation at the opening in the basement.

A 22ga stainless steel plate could be glued to the top with a good quality adhesive like GE Sililcone II. Or just get a blank stainless top cap.

what do you think of the register/closure plate mated into the multi fuel adapter the English guy had going on?

That's an option.

Multi-Flue Chimney Rain Caps | Stainless Steel or Copper Chimney Caps - Rockford Chimney

Multi-flue chimney caps are easy to install and made are custom made for a perfect fit. Available in stainless steel or copper with easy installation & free shipping!

www.rockfordchimneysupply.com

And a photo of the Lopi Sheffield I just got into the house 20 minutes ago roughed into the firebox.

Nice, you must be getting excited. Do you have well seasoned firewood for the stove?

 

[1870farmhouse]

A 22ga stainless steel plate could be glued to the top with a good quality adhesive like GE Sililcone II. Or just get a blank stainless top cap.

That's an option.

Multi-Flue Chimney Rain Caps | Stainless Steel or Copper Chimney Caps - Rockford Chimney

Multi-flue chimney caps are easy to install and made are custom made for a perfect fit. Available in stainless steel or copper with easy installation & free shipping!

www.rockfordchimneysupply.com

Nice, you must be getting excited. Do you have well seasoned firewood for the stove?

Lucky in Pennsylvania(Penn’s Woods) have great variety of hard and soft woods.
In my area hardwoods are black walnut, black cherry, pin oak, white oak, sycamore, tulip popular,
maples, hickory, American beech, American hornbeam.
Personally I like oak, walnut, hickory and maple.

Currently have 2 cords of walnut I purchased at a great rate, $300 for 2 cords delivered in May.
I have a 27 ton country line splitter that does horizontal and vertical splitting.
This summer I took down a huge ash, a pin oak and a red maple that based on a 8x4x4 dimension I got 2.5 cords.
In my township brush/sticks/leaf burning is not allowed so all tree debris must be taken to the township dump. So there are many bucked trees that dump the rounds there, it’s a nature dump only plant matter allowed and each week they use their industrial chipper and excavator to load and break up big pieces.
But now I go through there the day before they chip on Tuesday’s to grab any rounds of hardwood I want so I’ll grab like 6-10 pieces in a couple minutes and dump them at my splitter. I think the 2 cords I bought in May may be the last wood I buy for a long time. I broadly had 3/4 cord of mixed oak/walnut from last winter when the $300 2 cord special was delivered and i havent burned anything yet as my fireplace is currently occupied by the stove and the feedback on how clean my flue clay liner is made me decide not not do any traditional firebox fires as it’s for looks and produces no heat no make it worth making the flue dirty.

I hope the is enough room in the firebox around the stove. I know the firebox is lined with brick and backed by block. Just hope I’m not stuffing it in too tight. I plan on either getting those heat activated fans that sit on the stove top or maybe an electric blower down the road depending on how the heat flows through the house.

Red box is where the stove goes. Each floor is 635sf. The living room is 12x17 and the green mark is where I plan to make the new kitchen door opening as you currently have to walk through the dining room to get to the kitchen. And that will improve air movement/heat to the kitchen.

Yes I am getting excited, probably be ready by Christmas as I have a chimney guy willing to help me at $40/hr and he may get the insulated liner if he gets a better price but I’ve been holding off cause I was under the impression both flues were 6.75x11 and need an oval but now that I confirmed the flue is 11x11” the 6” insulated will fit easily.

So on my shopping list is a
-20’ 6” insulated liner
-block off plate for the basement flue
-6” multi fuel adapter
-blocking plate for the firebox damper
-masonry adhesive silicone
-3” metal corrugated venting for fresh air intake brought in from firebox ash trap to outside air.

 

[begreen]

This should be a very straight forward install. If the chimney guy has an account with Copperfield or other professional supplier and can get you a medium or heavy weight liner then that can be a good option. Just avoid the sales talk for lightweight 2-ply liners.

Also, watch terminology or you may end up getting something you don't need. The basement flue just needs a top cap or plate to seal it off. The liner for the Sheffield should have a damper area sealing block-off plate.

 

[1870farmhouse]

This should be a very straight forward install. If the chimney guy has an account with Copperfield or other professional supplier and can get you a medium or heavy weight liner then that can be a good option. Just avoid the sales talk for lightweight 2-ply liners.

Also, watch terminology or you may end up getting something you don't need. The basement flue just needs a top cap or plate to seal it off. The liner for the Sheffield should have a damper area sealing block-off plate.

I didn’t understand “The liner for the Sheffield should have a damper area sealing block-off plate.”

 

[begreen]

A block off plate, up in the fireplace's damper area, will stop the heat from the stove just heading up the chimney and heating the outdoors. The purpose is for the heat to stay in the room. If this was an interior chimney then it would be less important.

Why damper seal is needed, block off plate install

Should fireplace inserts and hearth stoves have a metal sealing plate installed at the damper area? Here is the simple answer. It is almost impossible to correctly seal most insert panels to the fireplace front. A lot of air can get through them - this works both ways.....hurts the draft when...

www.hearth.com

 

[1870farmhouse]

A block off plate, up in the fireplace's damper area, will stop the heat from the stove just heading up the chimney and heating the outdoors. The purpose is for the heat to stay in the room. If this was an interior chimney then it would be less important.

Why damper seal is needed, block off plate install

Should fireplace inserts and hearth stoves have a metal sealing plate installed at the damper area? Here is the simple answer. It is almost impossible to correctly seal most insert panels to the fireplace front. A lot of air can get through them - this works both ways.....hurts the draft when...

www.hearth.com

Great. But the link in that post goes to instructions where the images don’t show. Can you help fix that at all.

 

[begreen]

That's unfortunate. I passed this info on to the boss. Thanks for the heads up.
In the meantime, scroll down to the linked posts at the end. There are several visual examples in those posts.

 

[bigealta]

A small 8" or 10" fan on the floor should be fine to blow cool floor air under and / or around the stove. If it was me and that stove can rear vent and get it out of the enclosure space somewhat i would be doing that. Assuming you can meet distance to combustibles. The mantle may be an issue? The stove top fans don't move much air and they probably are to tall to fit with the stove so deep in the fireplace.

I have 2 stovetop fans and they push a little air, but any 8" electric fan (on low) pushes probably 20 times more air, maybe more.

 

[begreen]

Here is a good example of a one piece block off plate using a cardboard template
https://www.hearth.com/talk/resources/block-off-plate-construction.28/

This is a two piece install

Thread 'Another Block off Plate install (with pics!)'

Sep 7, 2011

Hi all,

I wanted to show off my progress on my install – obviously I am not a pro but everything I did was learned from this site (so thanks!) - I hope to get the Fireview in place this week.

I had some 22 gauge metal left over from my heart install so I used that to make the block off plate.

I template the damper area with cardboard first – decided it was easier for me to used two pieces instead of one – cut the metal and since I didn’t have a break formed the side edges using a vise and 2x4.

I was going to buy the Rock wool at Lowes but they only had it in huge rolls that I...

• Jambx
• Replies: 7
• Forum: The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces

• 

 

[begreen]

The image links in the block-off plate article are now fixed.

 

[1870farmhouse]

That's unfortunate. I passed this info on to the boss. Thanks for the heads up.
In the meantime, scroll down to the linked posts at the end. There are several visual examples in those posts.

Hey green. I have a great opportunity on a Jotul F100. What are your thoughts on that model?

F100 compared to the Lopi Sheffield?

 

[1870farmhouse]

A small 8" or 10" fan on the floor should be fine to blow cool floor air under and / or around the stove. If it was me and that stove can rear vent and get it out of the enclosure space somewhat i would be doing that. Assuming you can meet distance to combustibles. The mantle may be an issue? The stove top fans don't move much air and they probably are to tall to fit with the stove so deep in the fireplace.

I have 2 stovetop fans and they push a little air, but any 8" electric fan (on low) pushes probably 20 times more air, maybe more.

Funny you pictured a jotul. I may go buy a jotul f100 and sell the Sheffield. Any experience with f100?

 

[bigealta]

My friend had one and he liked it.
Todd here rebuilt one and is running it in his shop.
He has a thread on the rebuild and burning it.

Post in thread 'Jotul F100 Refurb'

Jul 16, 2025

I just checked marketplace for wood stoves and couldn't believe how many are on there. Saw a nice morso, jotul f100, 118, a pac energy alderlea t6, tons of clones, a bunch of fishers, and a nice looking insert for very good price.

Some were priced very reasonably, the f100 was $500 with some chimney pipe included.

Definitely some good deals out there. About a month ago I lost out on a mint F100 blue/black enamel for $300. The guy that bought it flipped it for $1400.

• Todd

 

[begreen]

Hey green. I have a great opportunity on a Jotul F100. What are your thoughts on that model?

F100 compared to the Lopi Sheffield?

Nah, it's about 40% smaller. I thought you already had the Lopi.

 

[1870farmhouse]

Nah, it's about 40% smaller. I thought you already had the Lopi.

I have the Lopi Sheffield here in the house and got a few friends to help bring it in and get the super heavy Encore out to the garage to get ready to sell on marketplace.

But I saw that F100 for sale and from all this recent stove knowledge I’ve found that jotul is possibly the most respected highest quality stove maker and got interested. I did see that reviewed didn’t like the firebox is small with only a 16.5” wide box and recommending logs no longer than 14” to be used but I thought to ask.

 

[bigealta]

Yes the f100 small firebox is not ideal. A jotul f35 might be an option, as it looks like you will be size constrained with that opening. Not sure if it's a good candidate though to stuff in a fireplace?

Disregard. i didn't realize you had the sheffield. Why not just run that this year and see how you like it? you can always swap it out next year or really anytime if you come across something that might work better if you end up not liking the sheffield.

 

[begreen]

I have the Lopi Sheffield here in the house and got a few friends to help bring it in and get the super heavy Encore out to the garage to get ready to sell on marketplace.

But I saw that F100 for sale and from all this recent stove knowledge I’ve found that jotul is possibly the most respected highest quality stove maker and got interested. I did see that reviewed didn’t like the firebox is small with only a 16.5” wide box and recommending logs no longer than 14” to be used but I thought to ask.

Lopi is an equally respected brand. They build very good stoves.

 

[1870farmhouse]

Yes the f100 small firebox is not ideal. A jotul f35 might be an option, as it looks like you will be size constrained with that opening. Not sure if it's a good candidate though to stuff in a fireplace?

Disregard. i didn't realize you had the sheffield. Why not just run that this year and see how you like it? you can always swap it out next year or really anytime if you come across something that might work better if you end up not liking the sheffield.

After green’s support of the Sheffield I’m going to run it this winter and see how I like it. One thing I’m not jazzed about is the lack of an ash pan and no outside air inlet on the stove. But I got it for $500 so I’ll easily be able to sell it for that for sure.

 

[1870farmhouse]

Lopi is an equally respected brand. They build very good stoves.

Ok green you sold me, I’m going to stick with the Lopi this winter, now I’m trying to schedule my friend of friend chimney guy to help me install the liner.
I’m trying to find an offset stove pipe but anything I see is in England/UK. Are they not legal in North America?
Is there a black flexible pipe I can connect the stove flue collar to the adapter to the liner?

 

[begreen]

Why not run the flexible liner right to the appliance adapter on the stove. If you want it to look black. take some black stove pipe and wrap it. The click lock style could be used without assembling it, instead, letting it be open in the back.

 

[1870farmhouse]

Why not run the flexible liner right to the appliance adapter on the stove. If you want it to look black. take some black stove pipe and wrap it. The click lock style could be used without assembling it, instead, letting it be open in the back.

Click lock style?

I have the Sheffield out on the porch doing a test burn to see if there are any issues before burning in the house when the liner gets installed.

Pictures are from 1 hour after lighting a fire, door shut and air intake fully closed.

 

[begreen]

Standard black Snaplock stove pipe. Available at the local hardware or big box stores.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/imperial-6-in-x-24-in-black-stove-pipe

 

[1870farmhouse]

Standard black Snaplock stove pipe. Available at the local hardware or big box stores.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/imperial-6-in-x-24-in-black-stove-pipe

Looks like a 4 second video works to attach. Local hardware didn’t have any 6” so I used the 8” oval to round piece with ballooning upwards just for tonight to test the stove.
The legs on the Sheffield are very tall, about 11” I plan to cut them in half as there is no ash pan and after 1.5 hours of burning the bottom is least hott of the other sides. The top is the hottest then the sides are warm but can touch, the top is hot enough to burn if touched longer than a second.

This stove has a radiator on the top forward of the glue collar and I am cutting the legs to get more distance from the bottom of the firebox lentil so I can move the stove outwards from the firebox so the radiating part clears the lentil.
It seems to be a necessary evil because the only other option i can see is dismantling the mantel and removing the lentil and couple layers of brick/stone and raising the lentil to accommodate.
I’ve been checking the radiant heat from top/sides/rear/bottom every 10–15 minutes.

If lower the legs I can put on a stovepipe that immediately goes to a 45 degree turn rearwards to allow the stove to come outwards enough for the radiant top to pass the lentil.

Cutting the legs gives me more clearance from combustibles as well. I’m already thinking I should paint the mantel affected pieces with high temp
Paint.

 

[begreen]

There are some red flags with cutting the legs. That is going to lower the firebox which will increase the hearth protection requirements. The stove radiates heat out from the front door. It needs 16" of hearth protection in front of the stove door, with the uncut legs. It's unknown when lowering it. The setup in post #28 looked better and safer, especially with the wood mantel above the stove.