Help P43 install (pt2)
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hinkle
Member
PIG, I have 2 - 90's before exiting my house like I said in your other thread. NO problems. Mine are to reach the existing hole I had in my wall.
I don't understand why you don't just use a 45 and go out to the right wall in your picture? The only clearances to worry about are the sides and the front if that needs mentioned. The back of the stove does not get hot at all, just the pipes which are going to go through your wall anyways.
As for this vertical exhaust drama, it'll cost you, but you'll gain all the extra heat from having the pipe on the inside of your house. Its definitely not illegal (in PA) so I can't comment on that. I already know your house is two stories from the other pictures so I know its pointless to discuss though.
I don't understand why you don't just use a 45 and go out to the right wall in your picture? The only clearances to worry about are the sides and the front if that needs mentioned. The back of the stove does not get hot at all, just the pipes which are going to go through your wall anyways.
As for this vertical exhaust drama, it'll cost you, but you'll gain all the extra heat from having the pipe on the inside of your house. Its definitely not illegal (in PA) so I can't comment on that. I already know your house is two stories from the other pictures so I know its pointless to discuss though.
you'll gain all the extra heat from having the pipe on the inside of your house
I don't believe you will realize much heat at all with more exposed pipe...the pipe doesn't get all that warm. Also, many folks feel the pipe is unsightly, and something you might just want to minimize.
hinkle
Member
I like them on free standing wood stoves with heat boxes, but thats 6" pipe and turns out a lot of heat. I imagine there could be some equivalent for pellet stoves? On the other end, spending $50 or so to finish off the exhaust ain't to bad either.
Not sure where this discussions is but come off the back enough to put a clean out tee on then angle it add sufficient length to add a 45 at the end to go through your thimble. If you need to add a 45 outside to get your 12 inch clearance. Three inch is now what needs to be used because Harman can no longer get 2 3/8 stock.
After moving this dam stove all over the place I've finally settled on a layout... Out of the stove (3" horizontal) will be an appliance adapter into a 45. Then 15" of pipe thru the wall into a cleanout T. Then 2' vertical into a 90 and horizontal cap(3pvp-hv). Simple
As for clearances...
The pipe exiting the wall will be 12" off the house side wall
The vent will be roughly 3' from the sunroom's window and 20" from the house window
That 20" is close for my liking but it's the best I can do...and still legal.
I'm still worried about soot and heat swirling around in that corner...the cleanout is outside and I have 2' of vert to help knock down the soot, and it gets me away from the oak.
The corner install coupled to the inside corner with windows has just made things a pia as far getting the piping right...like I said I wish I was more comfortable with it but it's the best solution I've come up with. And no I can't vent thru the roof, not going to happen
As for clearances...
The pipe exiting the wall will be 12" off the house side wall
The vent will be roughly 3' from the sunroom's window and 20" from the house window
That 20" is close for my liking but it's the best I can do...and still legal.
I'm still worried about soot and heat swirling around in that corner...the cleanout is outside and I have 2' of vert to help knock down the soot, and it gets me away from the oak.
The corner install coupled to the inside corner with windows has just made things a pia as far getting the piping right...like I said I wish I was more comfortable with it but it's the best solution I've come up with. And no I can't vent thru the roof, not going to happen
MtDew
Burning Hunk
I'll pipe it tomorrow but can't fire until inspected...and he's been out sick so probably next week. I'd fire it normally but my friend had his running before he got inspected and the guy was a real jerk about it. With my clearances so close I don't want to piss him off so I'll wait
P38X2
Minister of Fire
Unless your town has some special code requirements, "close", yet meeting the minimum clearances, is all you need to be legal. Just be sure. Don't let him or his attitude get to you. A lot of the inspectors around here are total DB's for no reason. Tell him to do his job and hit the bricks.
Yeah I know but I'm in the middle of building a big garage on my land and a have a couple of open permits elsewhere in town so I can't piss him off to much. It's 50-60 here for the next week anyways
P38X2
Minister of Fire
I hear ya. I'm just saying...if he starts going all power trip on you. Not saying to preemptively be disrespectful. The ones around here seem to go off as soon as they find out the homeowner did the work. I know their job is to promote safety, but instead of saying "Hey, looks great, let's check it out" it's more "Here we go, another idiot, let's see how bad you hacked it." I'm sure they've seen PLENTY of hack jobs though.
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