Help--stuck damper on small Dutchwest 2460

[nmliz]

Hi, guys... We are new to this forum. Not entirely new to wood stoves, but this is the first one we've bought ourselves (other one was in a rental).

Bought a used Dutchwest 2460, busted our backs getting it in here. Stove is older/more used than advertised, and now it appears that the damper is stuck on SLIGHtlY open. Stove backpuffs terribly, fills house with smoke.

Found a diagram, so I guess we're going to try taking the top off to see if we can loosen the damper with oil.... Any thoughts/advice? Will we damage seals, etc., by opening it up?

Thanks for helping out some novices!

 

[Hardrockmaple]

Lot;s of questions you need answered.

First one from me is how high is your chimney and is it located inside or outside of your house?

Do you have a manual for the stove? When is the backpuffing occurring? At start up or later when the temperature probe shows 500 degrees+ and you have shut the damper?

It is only 4 strove top bolts and two adjustment bolts on the damper shaft that you will need to work on. "If" you have to take it apart you should consider replacing the damper gasket while there. This is not a hard job.

I've had my DW 2460 for 15 years now and it still hums along like new, they are a good little stove.

 

[certified106]

I have seen the damper freeze/rust up after a summer in the basement before and it was nothing a little bit of oil a crescent wrench and a hammer couldnt fix. I just used the crescent wrench to try to move the damper back and forth and lightly tapped on and around the area where the damper was seized. As previously suggested i would replace the top plate gasket while the top is off.

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

2flaming, I have a 2461 large in the my garage in pieces now. I had the same problem with this one. 4 bolts get the top off and once your inside you can get to the damper very easily. I found the 2 hold downs for the dampers shaft to be partially frozen and I removed all the damper parts to do a proper cleaning/refitting. Once I put it back together I tweaked things a bit in order to adjust the shaft for smooth operation. Give that a try...

 

[nmliz]

Thank you all for your replies. The stove isn't exactly backpuffing. I couldn't move the damper handle at all, so it is stuck on mostly closed. The stove would draw for awhile if I opened the ashpan door a little bit. I know this is not something that should be done, but it was the only way to keep the fire going once the logs were burning pretty well. So I will take the advice and try the banging and some liquid wrench first. Then, if that doesn't work, I'll take off the lid and mess with the damper and replace the recommended seal.
If that doesn't work, I know we also might have to extend the chimney above the house. I'm hoping it won't get to that.
I'm glad to know this will be a good stove once we take care of this problem.
Once again, thank you for your information.

 

[nmliz]

Are the damper gasket and top plate gasket the same thing? Are these the same as an "interam gasket"?

Or should we just buy a gasket kit (gasket material, glue, etc.)?

Sorry we are so ignorant!

 

[nmliz]

Just found an owner's manual online. A ray of light

Now I know what an interam gasket is. And I see that the top plate and damper use 3/ inch gasket material.

It looks like we should just buy a gasket kit.