Help with installing stove or insert into masonry fireplace with heatilator.

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R1003.18 tells you about required clearances. If you don't have that a properly inulated liner means you don't need clearance there
 

R1003.18 tells you about required clearances. If you don't have that a properly inulated liner means you don't need clearance there
Gotcha, thanks for pointing that out to me. I'm going to have to double check all of that.
 
If the clay is removed would a wrapped liner fit there?
 
Yes it should without a problem.i didn't get home yesterday with enough daylight to go up and measure everything again. I'll most likely be doing it today when I get out of work.
 
I am looking at the Easy Flex pre-insulated liner. Says zero/zero clearance certified so verifying masonry clearance to combustibles is non issue?
 
I am looking at the Easy Flex pre-insulated liner. Says zero/zero clearance certified so verifying masonry clearance to combustibles is non issue?
Unless I missed something ( which wouldn't surprise me at this point ). If you don't have the masonry clearances then you must insulate. If you do have the clearances then insulating is optional. I could have read and understood wrong though.
 
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I am looking at the Easy Flex pre-insulated liner. Says zero/zero clearance certified so verifying masonry clearance to combustibles is non issue?
Correct a properly inulated liner doesn't require any clearance from the masonry
 
I almost feel like I'm working on my ACI cert again with all these tolerances and standards xD I just got notification that my insert will be delivered on Monday! They said 1-2 weeks and it's been 3 days!
 
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I almost feel like I'm working on my ACI cert again with all these tolerances and standards xD I just got notification that my insert will be delivered on Monday! They said 1-2 weeks and it's been 3 days!
Most of it isn't that complicated once you have all the info. Unfortunately many of the places selling stoves and liners are to worried about making sales to bother making sure you do it right.
 
Most of it isn't that complicated once you have all the info. Unfortunately many of the places selling stoves and liners are to worried about making sales to bother making sure you do it right.
I agree, it's not that bad once you wrap your head around the whole scope and understand what they're trying to accomplish. That seems to be the way most vendors are nowadays for just about anything. Go ahead, install or use which ever way you want. We don't care what happens as long as you paid for your product. It's a shame really! I'm definitely glad I found this forum and very thankful for all the info I've acquired since!
 
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Its not to big of a deal to knock out the clay tiles. I did it myself in November over a weekend. Professionals can do it in a few hours with the proper equipment and knowledge. Depends on you skill level, time and energy level. I was very satisfied after knocking tiles out, way easier to drop the insulated liner. I then added roxul at the top 3 ' of the chimney and there was plenty of room to add the same above the block off plate.
 
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I have a 1939 Heatilator fireplace, and I had a BK Sirocco 25 installed in it. I had a CSIA certified chimney sweep install it, and he had to cut out the steel top of the fireplace in order to get the new steel liner down the chimney. It was apparently a very time consuming job, as that steel in that old Heatilator is very thick.

My stove dealer gave me a measurement sheet to fill out, and the Sirocco was the only one that would fit. I really wanted the Princess, but I am very happy with my Sirocco.

My little house is about 1300 square feet, and the fireplace is in the living room on the main floor, above the hot air furnace in the basement. Here in Newport we burn fuel oil, and my furnace is 20 years old so I have to replace that big daddy this summer, but it does keep the house relatively warm when I don't have a fire going. (I have yet to restore my original double hung windows.)

Just opposite the fireplace are the open stairs to the second floor, and the fan on the Sirocco does very well in pushing the hot air upstairs. The chimney goes through the master bedroom, but the BK really does keep my little house toasty, even in the upstairs rooms on the opposite side of the stairs.

I love the vent grates on the FP !!!!

Welcome to the forums, always nice to see another Sistah here :)
 
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Its not to big of a deal to knock out the clay tiles. I did it myself in November over a weekend. Professionals can do it in a few hours with the proper equipment and knowledge. Depends on you skill level, time and energy level. I was very satisfied after knocking tiles out, way easier to drop the insulated liner. I then added roxul at the top 3 ' of the chimney and there was plenty of room to add the same above the block off plate.
I'm pretty damn sure that's what I'm going to do. I still haven't gotten up to the roof yet. I keep procrastinating because we just had a cold / windy snap come through the area. It looks like the tool to knock the tiles out will cost about $150-200 which isn't terrible. The insulation will cost another $200ish with all the extras. Counting all that, I'm still under 2 grand for the whole install. Can't ask for much more than that!
 
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This past weekend was showtime! The last of my equipment / materials showed up last week. My Rutland Prokleen rods showed up on Thursday and the tile breaker showed up on Friday. However, the rep I was in contact with from the chimney supply place instructed me to order the wrong tile breaker! He agreed to send me a return label and the correct replacement to fit my rods. I couldn't just sit around this weekend so I decided to go for making my own tile breaker! The first drill we used didn't have enough juice so we went and got another one. After we plugged it in the tiles were falling without a problem! The insert didn't get installed yet but everything is prepped and ready to go for either this week after work or this weekend. The DIY tile breaker consists of 1/2" black steel pipe. It was 2 couplings, 2 close nipples, 1 tee, 3/16 wire rope and 2 5/16 rigging hooks. We used common nails as cotter pins instead of the dinky pins that come with the hooks. I also used two 3/16 wire rope clamps with and a short piece of wire rope in the center to prevent the from sliding back and forth too much. JB Weld was used as a pipe dope to lock everything in place. I also used the epoxy to fill the threads inside the top coupling then after everything was dry I used a Dremel with a carbide cutting bit to make the appropriate cuts to allow the rod to fit properly. At the end it was pretty mangled but it worked! If I were to do it again I'd go with heavier wire rope and possibly end caps with holes drilled in the center instead of the clamps or used epoxy on the clamps and that area that they were on. The clamps were an addition right before we started so epoxy would've slowed everything down so I winged it. It wasn't perfect but it got the job done for a fraction of the initial cost. Everything was broken up in very manageable smaller sized pieces. We were able to shovel it out of the firebox and into buckets without a problem. Don't forget to tape everything off with plastic before you start and clean off your smoke shelf when you're done. Also, don't forget your safety glasses, dust mask and a strong flashlight so you can look down the chimney to ensure you've gotten everything. I will update more when we get more done!
 

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Sounds good! I can't wait to see photos!
 
Here is my installation thread from later last year. Nice DIY breaker tool.