Help with Planning Sprinkler Irrigation System

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Minister of Fire
Sep 23, 2015
southeast kootenays
I'm planning to install an irrigation system in my yard that I just recently regraded following a year's worth of work to get it from crapola to something my kids will (hopefully) love.

I purchased this package kit online due to good reviews and what I think is a workable system for my needs:
I actually bought two of them for 2 zones.

In addition to the sprinklers, I plan to have 2 more zones for drip irrigation (gardening). This has led me to conclude that I should swap out the timer that comes with the kit (which is reportedly the weakest component) and install a system timer and valves and manifold. I think the process looks straightforward (I was a carpenter in HS and college, have built many things, remodeled my current house, etc), but I suck at some types of plumbing, of which this is one.

Below are parts and pieces I'm thinking of getting to complete the setup. My goal is to locate a valve box about 10ft away from my hose bib and connect a garden hose to the manifold (question on this later). Power would come from the opposite side of the wall where the box is and that's also where the timer would be mounted.

System Timer:

Valve Box Base:

Valve Box:


Manifold Swivel Adapter:

DCVA: (not sure if needed; or do i just get anti-siphon valves?)


Questions I have are:
- How do I get from 3/4" to 1/2" poly connection? My understanding is that the manifold is designed for 3/4" poly tube, and I haven't been able to find anything with a 1/2" male connection. Is there a reducer polytube available?

- How do I connect garden hose to manifold - is that the swivel adapter or is there some other product to accommodate this? All the online installs I've reviewed (granted, only 1 night's worth of review) showed glued PVC going back, presumably, to a main water line in the house or even back at the water meter --- that ain't happening with me. I'm sure there's a workaround on this.

- For antisiphon protection, do I need a DCVA if I'm using valves with antisiphon feature? Is one better than another? Seems a valve is around $20 and I'd need 4 eventually. The DCVA is $100+ and looks to be soldered into copper; not sure if I'm looking at the right product for a DCVA.

- If you see anything else that looks off, please LMK.



Minister of Fire
Oct 26, 2015
Golden CO
i have basically the same system. there are a lot of connectors available. Hardest part is making sure that everything fits. I found that my local ACE hardware has the best selection, and I was able to bring in my hoses and test the fittings.

The tubing that comes with the kit is not the same as what they sell for their standard 1/2", so there was a lot of trouble shooting.

Buy extra fittings and keep consistent with the fittings and hoses. I had to piece together a lot of my system. Give yourself a little bit of extra wiggle room for making sure that you can have clean cuts and not a lot of pressure.


Minister of Fire
Dec 28, 2006
Mt. Rainier Foothills, WA
In Washington, state law requires a dcva. Antisiphon is not good enough but you can do both.

Call up your water provider, they will want to know and will have specific requirements.


Minister of Fire
Dec 28, 2006
Mt. Rainier Foothills, WA
If you plan on chemical injection, like fertilizer, you need an even higher level of protection.