Here is my Ideal Steel install!

[Sconnie Burner]

After 6 long months in the making, Our builder gave me the go ahead! Nothing fancy yet, but it is in and ready to heat in the neighborhoodof 2800 sq ft. Basement is unfinished, but framed up for sheetrock. I will start the process once I move in.

Stripped down and moved into place:


Installed a damper and adding the double wall up to the thimble:


Got it connected:

(Note the walk up on the right which is going to be perfect for bringing in wood!)

All back together and begging to be lit:


Man I can't wait to start a fire in it!! We hopefully close by the end of next week or the following week! I will also probably add some sheetrock behind it to tidy up and keep the insulation from being exposed right near the stove.

 

[bholler]

What thimble did you use? I only ask because most need some clearance to combustibles so the fiberglass plastic and tape may need to be pulled back. But I don't know every thimble so it may be fine.

 

[Highbeam]

Damper? Those IS stoves are pretty dang nice.

I like your truss bottom chords on the flat. Will make it way easier to sheetrock.

 

[Sconnie Burner]

What thimble did you use? I only ask because most need some clearance to combustibles so the fiberglass plastic and tape may need to be pulled back. But I don't know every thimble so it may be fine.

It is an ICC Excel thimble. I removed the tape after the photo. I'm not sure on the insulation. It is a piece of class A passed through the thimble with an additional sleeve slid over the thimble itself if I am remembering correctly. I will do some research on that....

 

[Sconnie Burner]

Damper?

The chimney is 21 or 22 ft up from the thimble on the east (leward) side of the house. Picture I took after installing the chase top and cap:


The wind was really sucking the air while I was installing the stove today! So its there if I need it anyway.

 

[bholler]

It is an ICC Excel thimble. I removed the tape after the photo. I'm not sure on the insulation. It is a piece of class A passed through the thimble with an additional sleeve slid over the thimble itself if I am remembering correctly. I will do some research on that....

yeah just double check it like I said it may be fine but I am not sure I use ventis not excel

 

[begreen]

Check with ICC but I thought the wall radiation shield maintains the required clearance from the chimney pipe. Should be fine for the fiberglass but I am not sure about the plastic. Their EWRSI says it is for vapor barrier installations. Is this what was used?

 

[drz1050]

Think about hardiboard/ durock behind the stove instead of drywall.. pretty sure drywall counts as a combustible.

 

[bholler]

Think about hardiboard/ durock behind the stove instead of drywall.. pretty sure drywall counts as a combustible.

Yes but so does the wood framing. I am assuming he has the required clearance to the wall.

 

[drz1050]

Yes but so does the wood framing. I am assuming he has the required clearance to the wall.

That's my point. If his wall is at the clearance spec right now, putting drywall on top will reduce the clearance, and fail.

 

[Sconnie Burner]

Think about hardiboard/ durock behind the stove instead of drywall.. pretty sure drywall counts as a combustible.

Yes but so does the wood framing. I am assuming he has the required clearance to the wall.

Yep, I purchased the close clearance shield from WS, which allows a rear 6" clearance to combustibles. Actually at 8" right now to allow for wallcovering. If I'm going to tile or stone, would hardi-board or dura-rock provide a better surface for that?

 

[Sconnie Burner]

Check with ICC but I thought the wall radiation shield maintains the required clearance from the chimney pipe. Should be fine for the fiberglass but I am not sure about the plastic. Their EWRSI says it is for vapor barrier installations. Is this what was used?

Thats what I thought as well. There is a galvinized sleeve under the black part that slides off. Inside of the galvanized sleeve is the class A piece of chimney.

 

[bholler]

That's my point. If his wall is at the clearance spec right now, putting drywall on top will reduce the clearance, and fail.

Again I was assuming he had plenty of clearance after drywall. And he has just confirmed that.

If I'm going to tile or stone, would hardi-board or dura-rock provide a better surface for that?

Yes if you are planning on tiling or stone defiantly don't drywall.

 

[drz1050]

Yep, I purchased the close clearance shield from WS, which allows a rear 6" clearance to combustibles. Although if I'm going to tile or stone, would hardi-board or dura-rock provide a better surface for that?

1. What's your current clearance to the studs?

2. Yes. You can't stone over drywall without diamond lath fastened to the studs. You don't need the lath for durock. Make sure you get the 1/2" durock though, the 1/4 isn't strong enough for stone.

 

[Sconnie Burner]

1. What's your current clearance to the studs?

2. Yes. You can't stone over drywall without diamond lath fastened to the studs. You don't need the lath for durock. Make sure you get the 1/2" durock though, the 1/4 isn't strong enough for stone.

1. I edited above and added I'm at 8" right now

2. Thanks for the tip on using 1/2" instead of 1/4"

 

[bholler]

You don't need the lath for durock

Every stone manufacturer I have used has required lath over cement board as well. And regardless I would not do stone without it.

 

[SlyFerret]

Every stone manufacturer I have used has required lath over cement board as well. And regardless I would not do stone without it.

What is the purpose of the lath?

My wife wants to do stone behind our stove next year in the off-season. We do a lot of DIY work, but I've never done stone before. I assumed that a stone veneer would go up much like tile. Is that not the case?

-SF

Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk

 

[drz1050]

The lath/ scratch coat gives the mortar/ thinset more "teeth" to hold onto, to keep it from pulling away from the wall.

 

[drz1050]

Stone is heavier than tile, and the backs of stones are not as flat, so they also need to be back buttered before laying on the wall.

 

[Highbeam]

Lots and lots of tile is set on sheetrock walls. Thinset sticks really well.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

What is the purpose of the lath?

My wife wants to do stone behind our stove next year in the off-season. We do a lot of DIY work, but I've never done stone before. I assumed that a stone veneer would go up much like tile. Is that not the case?

-SF

Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk

Similar just a couple extra things. Make sure you lath. It doesn't hurt to have a small bucket of different sized wood wedges when doing the job.

 

[Sconnie Burner]

Little update:
Got to play with the stove yesterday with a small kindling and couple small split fire for the first break in fire! Got everything going and ended up with a temp next to the flue of about 275-300. Had it burning while I was installing some shelving in the pantry.


Today I installed the cat probe and lit a little bigger fire with 3-4 real splits, and got the same spot up to near 450. Paint stink wasn't too horrible, at least bearable. Builder gave us the go ahead to start moving some stuff in, so figured what better time than to burn the stove while fresh air was being introduced through opening doors.

Now only if my closing was going as smooth as this thing runs/burns........I'd be sitting in front of this beauty nightly instead of still waiting!:hair: It's been a triumph trying to appease the lender with the documents they have been requesting, ONE AT A TIME for the past 2 WEEKS (at least 8 different documents). Apparently a list of all things missing at one time is too easy to come up with. I wish I could do my job this sloppy and get away with it!!

 

[JA600L]

Nice stove. I am using my IS for the 3rd heating season now. Simple cat vacuuming and dry wood keep it running strong. It's a work horse. I've bombed it with 3 year seasoned locust the last few nights. The stove responds very well to that. There is no doubt I will wake up warm on the coldest nights even from the basement.

It's no doubt one of the most versatile stoves on the market. It can pretty much do whatever job you ask it to. Enjoy.

 

[Sconnie Burner]

Nice stove. There is no doubt I will wake up warm on the coldest nights even from the basement.

It's no doubt one of the most versatile stoves on the market. It can pretty much do whatever job you ask it to. Enjoy.

Thanks, and thats what I want to hear. I'm hoping it will do a large chunk of the heating for close to 2800 sq ft!

 

[BuckyBeaver524]

Congratulations. Woodstock stoves in general, and the IS in particular, offer a nice balance between extended burn times and heating capability. And they are simple to use. Enjoy.