If they are still using the 3 piece push block, by that I mean the push block, spacer,and the plate underneath, with bolts through all 3. Weld the spacers to the push block ( makes it a channel to follow beam) otherwise the push block cylinder assembly will be dancing all over the place as you can't get the bolts tight enough to keep the spacers from getting hammered out of posistion. Could lead to a bent cylinder shaft. Less of a problem on yours more so on the Horz-Vert units as the wedge tries to follow the grain on knarly stuff.
HF splitters
- Thread starter Clarkbar2311
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I plan on making the replacement beam and slide that they are sending me much more tight. The damage is already done to the beam I have. It's not terrible but I bothers me. Thanks for your input. I agree on the method.
Got my new Beam and slide today. Got a new 4 way wedge coming. Taking this thing right over to the machine shop to re-engineer the slide assembly.
My rebuild of 10 year old HF 30t splitter, Strictly horz. now. New Beam and valve, aux. 1.5gal hydro tank added, 12" wedge, push plate is 1.25" thick with 1/2" gussets. Hydro lines and valve repositioned for use from either side. table also added but I do not have pic of that at present.
With the additional tank not allowing air to be entrained in the hydro oil, the unit runs much cooler.
Splitts 24" Elm rounds with nary a grunt, what won't split it just shears.
I know the push plate could be taller, but it is what I had on hand, If it proves to be a problem I will construct a a taller one. So far it has been fine after plowing through a face cord of Elm.
With the additional tank not allowing air to be entrained in the hydro oil, the unit runs much cooler.
Splitts 24" Elm rounds with nary a grunt, what won't split it just shears.
I know the push plate could be taller, but it is what I had on hand, If it proves to be a problem I will construct a a taller one. So far it has been fine after plowing through a face cord of Elm.
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rails on beam are 1" angle iron of the heaviest I could find. The side plate is 2.5" channel iron also the thickest web I could find. Rails are welded to beam. side plate bolted (1/2" dia.) to base of pusher(base is 1.25" thick) This works fine with all but the worst items. If the round starts to roll back or climb the wedge then some deformation of the side plates is occurring. Easily corrected with a BFH. I will have to beef this area up a little later on both the rail and the side plates. 1" sq. solid for the rails and likely make the side plate channels out of 1/2" plate. that should resolve the issue. A taller push plate would only tend to aggravate this as it would apply more leverage to the affected area unless I raise the cylinder. Currently the ram is centered on the push plate in relation to the pates height from the beam. Out of batteries for camera at present.
I just noticed that I am using a 1/2" bolt through the ramcup and ram, I need to increase this to at least 9/16" owing to the original bolt being metric and slightly larger than .5". Hopefully I can drill down through the ram as 9/16 is slightly larger than the metric one. Reason is it is allowing some arcing of the top of the push plate towards the ram.
What about using contoured rails and bearings on the slide but on the underside on the angle iron piece?
That would be just an added expense as bearings are not really needed, there is very little wear in that area. There real wear area is between the top of the beam and the bottom of the push plate due to crud from the rounds. I use Dri slide on that area and the side guides. You could, if you want to get fancy, incorporate some Deralin or brass wear bars under the slide plate. But that again is over kill. You do not have as many forces working against you when the wedge is on the end of the beam, unlike a combination unit where all the forces are captivated between the wedge on the ram and the foot plate. Which is then transmitted into the beam.
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