Hogwildz are you out there?

[JayD]

Hello Hog, I need to put a new door gasket on my PE spectrum, I think it was you that used 1" med density with the Hi-temp silicone If so hows that holding up? I hate that rutland gasket cement, And would like to try the silicone, Was it hi temp Permatex rtv? {PE states 7/8 gasket} but my factory gasket looks and measures more like 1" unless it just mushed out? Thanks bud! Jay

 

[bholler]

Don't know about the size but i always use silicone just when you do it close the door and latch it to seat the gasket then open them so if any oozed out you don't glue your doors shut. Believe me it is not fun if you do

 

[begreen]

I used a bit of silicone on our door for a couple 3" stretches where the factory didn't do a good job of cementing it. Can't remember what brand. Fast forward a few years to last year when I replaced the gasket. The silicone had turned into stone and was a real booger to clean out. I won't use it there again.

 

[bholler]

The silicone had turned into stone and was a real booger to clean out. I won't use it there again.

really? i have never had that issue i think gasket cement is harder to get off. i wonder why it did that on yours

 

[begreen]

Might have been the product, I think it was RTV? Had the same thing happen on a pellet stove flue collar, but there it was less of an issue.

 

[bholler]

I don't know i have never had a problem with it

 

[Hogwildz]

The one inch worked well, BUT, it was a bit large. Which meant adjusting the latch tab outward. I think it may have started prematurely wearing the outer door casting where the latch swivels against.
I would stick with the 7/8". I replaced that a few years ago, and went back to the 7/8". Are you sure you need a new one? These high density gasket PE uses don't need much to seal. They don't have to be as tight as a frogs ahole. As far as silicone, high temp silicone made by Rutland or others works just fine, not sure about Permatex, I would go for a proper HT silicone made by Rutland etc. in a regular caulk tube. In my experience, it was much easier to clean the silicone off when the time comes, then the regular cement crap. A wire wheel in a drill cleans both off. The silicone for me, came off easier. I clean the door surface that the gasket sets in with rubbing alcohol or break cleaner for a nice clean dry surface to attach to.
Just put a nice 1/4 -3/8" bead on the door centered where the gasket sits, and it will be fine. Everything behind the gasket is protected, anything that may ooze out burns off. I had no issues with a bad ooze though. I set the gasket end at the bottom corner near the hinge side, then carefully lay it centered in place around the door. Try not to stretch the rope as your placing it in place, this will thin it out and you don't want that. At the corners, try and keep it more square so the knife edge will set in the middle as best as possible. Rounding the gasket around the corners can leave small areas where the knife edge will rest past the gasket. Wrap it around the entire door, cut the finish end at the outside edge of the first end you set. Meaning cut the end 7/8" too long, then set it in place butting the final end against the side of the start end. The extra of the finish end will compress into the side of the start end and make a nice tight seal. Set the door on stove and let it set for 24 hrs if possible. Then, fire at will and enjoy.

 

[begreen]

Good to know. I think the stuff I used was Permatex. Blue IIRC.

 

[webby3650]

Many manufacturers are using high temp silicone as gasket cement. It works good, and much easier to remove when needed. I prefer it! If It's red silicone that I see from the manufacturer, that's what I replace it with.

 

[JayD]

Hogwildz, Alright cool, the gasket itself looks great and pass's the dollar bill test, The factory finished ends are tight, It's the bottom corner under the door latch thats giving me problems it just does not want to stay glued down. I tried to reglue with that Rutland stove cement, It's good for a few weeks and pops loose again. I will order 6' of 7/8 Gasket as Back-up, As I can't find any 7/8 locally. I did find the Rutland HT silicone local and will get some of that and try to seal down that corner after I clean it up real good with the door off, I'll use my Dremal tool and clean the old cement out Most of the Good local wood burning stove stores have all gone under. So I have TSC. Home Depot, Lowes and one real fancy Fireplace-spa joint that just wants to sell me a Hot Tub I might have good tip for ya, I tried your gasket braid for the upper baffle. I just about pulled what hair I have left, Out! trying to weave and braid it, And keeping it in place while reinstalling the baffle So I sat down and smoked one, I am a card holder. And really started thinking about it, I went to my local grow hydroponics store bought a 4" grodan rockwool grow cube shaved off a slice about 3/16" thick with a sharp bread knife,cut with the grain, I used some small nail scissors and cut the hole and trimmed the outside to size, set it on the tube and slipped the baffle right in first time, The weight of the baffle compress's it right down to seal. Any way, Never had any little flame or indication of an air leak back their all last winter, A first in 4 years. Thanks for the 1" gasket info I almost ordered that, I'm glad I ask you how it worked out. I was just going to PM you but didn't see that anywhere any more? I guess thats called {Start a conversation} now? Any way, Thanks Bud and Lets hope for a milder winter this year! Jay

 

[madison]

You want the Rutland BLACK, not the Rutland Clear that comes with the kit. (broken link removed to http://www.hardwarestore.com/rutland-hi-temp-stove-and-gasket-cement-256040.aspx) I believe I found it once at Tractor Supply and then Amazon. Note that the Rutland clear is only rated to 800 degrees, Black is rated to 2000.

See these two previous threads:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/pe-t6-door-gasket-size.29543/#post-861042
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/pe-pacific-door-new-gasket-install.56294/#post-70

Call tom at chimneysweeponline.com to find the exact dimensions of the gasket.

My T6 OEM is 5/16 graphite. I used 3/8" a rutland graphite impregnated with rutland BLACK and it has been on since Dec. 2012. I took the door off, brass wire brushed out the old cement, and followed Tom's instructions linked above.

I would suggest not firing up the doobie until the door is back on the stove,,, in the correct orientation.

 

[JayD]

Madison, I will use the Hi-Temp Silicone, This is from a different post about the same subject,

Most of the manufacturers are using silicone these days. It is good to 800 degrees and the door frame doesn't get that hot.

Thanks Jay

 

[Hogwildz]

Before you think of replacing the gasket, since everything else is all good with it, just schmutz some silicone under the loose area, close the door and let is set for 24 hrs. I have done that and it worked well, rather than replacing the entire gasket if not necessary.
I didn't have any problems braiding & tying the rope gasket to make the baffle ring. A fellow burner had sent me some welding cloth to try, but have not had a chance to try it yet, and alas, I got a new Summit, which has a different gasket that spans the entire back. I will order one, to make a template for my new style gasket however I will have to make that.
I will keep your idea in mind though. Not sure what the new style gasket looks like, but I will know after the fall cleaning.
Stock up deep with good hard, dry wood. This winter is supposed to be another doozy like last winter.

 

[madison]

Madison, I will use the Hi-Temp Silicone, This is from a different post about the same subject, Thanks Jay

good luck, the 800 degree rated rutland cement does not last.

i would argue that indeed the exterior of the door frame is not much greater than 800 degree's, but the door frame interior is way hotter than 800 ...

 

[Hogwildz]

The silicone lasts just fine. Anything behind the gasket goes unharmed. even with the hotter than hell interior firebox temps.