Hello Everyone! A long time ago now I had to make a decision between (what boiled down to the PE-T6 and the HS-Mansfield. After a long analysis and lots of discussion here I went with the Mansfield and never looked back; that is until now. And, I still think the Mansfield is a great burner but I have discovered a few issues.
BeGreen and The Chimney Sweep were extremely helpful in my process and continue to be great resources.
I had the Mansfield returned the first season (to the factory) for reassembly as I had issues with rear stones.
The door latch had to be replaced in the third or fourth year; which I learned was a common problem.
I installed a damper in my flue collar at the stove (I have a great draft) and use it to keep the heat in the stove; it works like a champ. (a Chimney Sweep suggestion)
I took the stove internals apart for a cleaning at year 7. It is easy and I didn't have to go as far as I did. But, by removing the secondary air manifold I got it all cleaned out and paid much attention to cementing the manifold in place as I reassembled it. This made a big difference in the draft's pull on the air tube supply and I got a better burn as a result.
I experimented with the baffle and blanket. I used a higher temp baffle material from a ceramic board supplier and it caused my secondary burn to be better. And, traditional aftermarket fire blanket material (ebay) worked just as good as the original. I replace it whenever I pull the baffle. (maybe every two to three years.
My stack gets a slight build up every two years (I check it every year). There is never more than about 1/2 pint of ash dust after I brush the chimney.
These are all positives in my estimation. I've burned the stove and heated a 2500 square foot house including a cathedral ceiling room of 25x40. No problems.
Finally, I have found one issue. When you load any stove for years on end, you sometimes smack the walls with a split; in fact you do it more often that you'd like to think you do. And, when its 24/7 time, your stove is hot and you want to get'm in there and shut the door, you do it too often. At this point, I've smacked the rear and side walls once too often. As a result I have hairline cracks across one stone on each side and the rear. These are not "catastrophic" as the Mansfield has steel tabs that hold each stone all around it's perimeter. But, they are there. And, this is the only flaw I can find after 12 years. With a steel stove you have a similar issue (as pointed out to me) with the fire brick within; but I also think you can replace that easier than breaking down a soapstone unit and rebuilding it.
I haven't bothered Hearthstone about this as the unit is fantastic and actually may heat better than they advertise. I do think that smacking a wall now and then is unavoidable.
I also have a fix. Since the stones are held together all around the perimeter it isn't likely that they are going to separate so applying a skim coat of very hi-temp stove cement (2-3K degrees) to the surface of the interior surface of the stones will seal any potential air infiltration. This is what I'll be doing as soon as I stop burning for the season.
I've also considered creating a safety rail between the vertical air manifolds (sides and rear) out of some steel plate, but I am not sure of the impact to the stove's operation or the stone's heat retention, so I think that the furnace cement solution is a better one.
In the longer run, I'm waiting to see what the PE-T6 LE (certified 2020 compliant) does. Or, if the current T6 is available at a great deal in my area as they changeover.
We'll see. I don't regret the Mansfield as it has paid for itself over and over, still works fine and etc. I might just have that new stove thing going on in my head.
BeGreen and The Chimney Sweep were extremely helpful in my process and continue to be great resources.
I had the Mansfield returned the first season (to the factory) for reassembly as I had issues with rear stones.
The door latch had to be replaced in the third or fourth year; which I learned was a common problem.
I installed a damper in my flue collar at the stove (I have a great draft) and use it to keep the heat in the stove; it works like a champ. (a Chimney Sweep suggestion)
I took the stove internals apart for a cleaning at year 7. It is easy and I didn't have to go as far as I did. But, by removing the secondary air manifold I got it all cleaned out and paid much attention to cementing the manifold in place as I reassembled it. This made a big difference in the draft's pull on the air tube supply and I got a better burn as a result.
I experimented with the baffle and blanket. I used a higher temp baffle material from a ceramic board supplier and it caused my secondary burn to be better. And, traditional aftermarket fire blanket material (ebay) worked just as good as the original. I replace it whenever I pull the baffle. (maybe every two to three years.
My stack gets a slight build up every two years (I check it every year). There is never more than about 1/2 pint of ash dust after I brush the chimney.
These are all positives in my estimation. I've burned the stove and heated a 2500 square foot house including a cathedral ceiling room of 25x40. No problems.
Finally, I have found one issue. When you load any stove for years on end, you sometimes smack the walls with a split; in fact you do it more often that you'd like to think you do. And, when its 24/7 time, your stove is hot and you want to get'm in there and shut the door, you do it too often. At this point, I've smacked the rear and side walls once too often. As a result I have hairline cracks across one stone on each side and the rear. These are not "catastrophic" as the Mansfield has steel tabs that hold each stone all around it's perimeter. But, they are there. And, this is the only flaw I can find after 12 years. With a steel stove you have a similar issue (as pointed out to me) with the fire brick within; but I also think you can replace that easier than breaking down a soapstone unit and rebuilding it.
I haven't bothered Hearthstone about this as the unit is fantastic and actually may heat better than they advertise. I do think that smacking a wall now and then is unavoidable.
I also have a fix. Since the stones are held together all around the perimeter it isn't likely that they are going to separate so applying a skim coat of very hi-temp stove cement (2-3K degrees) to the surface of the interior surface of the stones will seal any potential air infiltration. This is what I'll be doing as soon as I stop burning for the season.
I've also considered creating a safety rail between the vertical air manifolds (sides and rear) out of some steel plate, but I am not sure of the impact to the stove's operation or the stone's heat retention, so I think that the furnace cement solution is a better one.
In the longer run, I'm waiting to see what the PE-T6 LE (certified 2020 compliant) does. Or, if the current T6 is available at a great deal in my area as they changeover.
We'll see. I don't regret the Mansfield as it has paid for itself over and over, still works fine and etc. I might just have that new stove thing going on in my head.