This is the vent to prevent pressurizing the enclosed space between firebox and oven. 3/4 wide X 1 inch high. Bottom left. Could be factory cut on yours. As long as the space is not sealed it’s fine. The cover plates with bolts are the precut holes for water coil. The thermostat on right is not factory. It is the same bimetal thermostat Hitzer uses.
I had a talk with Duane the builder, and he was installing them for Amish families that were not concerned about UL approval. We agreed back then to cut a hole below the grate on the rear so air comes up through grate. The spaces between rods of grate is perfect for allowing ash to accumulate on grate so you can burn slow just like a brick bottom. For starting, or to kick it up for oven use I simple scrape some ash through only in a few places and open thermostat door flap. It literally starts like a light bulb from a cold start, and we leave the front original intake just cracked so if we get busy the stove doesn’t overheat as the thermostat allows the thermostat to close automatically. Gravity closes the flap. I’ll link to a thread with pics installing it. I’ll look for the piece I cut on an angle that I saved in case anyone wanted it to make a second air intake. It has a good cut on about a 45* angle for good seal. I used heavy 1/2 inch thick wall tube so the edge had a wide bearing area for a good seal. Thicker than Hitzer, which I have with no problems as well.
Yours should have the stainless oven interior, and back then the original thermometer on oven door was a surface mount. They read 1/2 the actual oven temperature since the coil spring senes the temperature between door skin. I had Duane send me a Cooper probe type since this was about the time they went with a probe. Drill hole for probe through inner door skin so it doesn’t touch the probe and it’s perfect. 1000*f max, 200 minimum.
I replaced all galvanized screws in oven with stainless, then continued to replace all hardware on exterior of stove with stainless as well. I had it from doing service on gas appliances in commercial kitchens.
I had a talk with Duane the builder, and he was installing them for Amish families that were not concerned about UL approval. We agreed back then to cut a hole below the grate on the rear so air comes up through grate. The spaces between rods of grate is perfect for allowing ash to accumulate on grate so you can burn slow just like a brick bottom. For starting, or to kick it up for oven use I simple scrape some ash through only in a few places and open thermostat door flap. It literally starts like a light bulb from a cold start, and we leave the front original intake just cracked so if we get busy the stove doesn’t overheat as the thermostat allows the thermostat to close automatically. Gravity closes the flap. I’ll link to a thread with pics installing it. I’ll look for the piece I cut on an angle that I saved in case anyone wanted it to make a second air intake. It has a good cut on about a 45* angle for good seal. I used heavy 1/2 inch thick wall tube so the edge had a wide bearing area for a good seal. Thicker than Hitzer, which I have with no problems as well.
Yours should have the stainless oven interior, and back then the original thermometer on oven door was a surface mount. They read 1/2 the actual oven temperature since the coil spring senes the temperature between door skin. I had Duane send me a Cooper probe type since this was about the time they went with a probe. Drill hole for probe through inner door skin so it doesn’t touch the probe and it’s perfect. 1000*f max, 200 minimum.
I replaced all galvanized screws in oven with stainless, then continued to replace all hardware on exterior of stove with stainless as well. I had it from doing service on gas appliances in commercial kitchens.
