I bought my englander 30 from Home Depot. I have yet to gt it installed but it looks like a heating machine. and with all the reviews on here I am sure it is.
Home depot stove or brand name?
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On the cost question above, burn tubes for the 30 are $28 apiece and a set of the two baffle boards is $125. Plus shipping.
Throw your poker away and don't try to jam splits clear to the top and either item is a non-issue for a long time. With any stove that doesn't use a mild steel baffle..
Throw your poker away and don't try to jam splits clear to the top and either item is a non-issue for a long time. With any stove that doesn't use a mild steel baffle..
Ashful
Minister of Fire
The 13 is an awesome heater. Best burn times with excellent seasoned firewood is 5 - 6 hours, and that's firing off from a coal bed.
If I remember correctly, the 27 has the sameish size box as the PE Pacific insert. I can easily fire off of the coals after 8 - 10 hours, depending on the out door temps. I'm usually successful. The house holds the heat for a few hours, so it's really not an issue.
All my woodstoves including the 30 get over 700 Deg stovetop while burning. This guy probably had green wood. No mention of Stove temp. First time wood stovers make that mistake often.
Sprinter
Minister of Fire
What is it about this stove that makes burn times better? It seems like on any 2 cf (EPA) stove, you would just have to get the damper turned down far enough which means dirty burning on any non-cat. Does the PE allow less air on "low" or is it some other characteristic?
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Check out the Harman Firedome, Sprinter. That is a unique design that allows lower temperature and less variable secondary burns than other non-cat stoves, but they're often reported being very finnicky, in terms of draft conditions.
It's a secret. Really it is, sorta. The PE super box uses a whiz bang control to throttle secondary air as well as primary when you shut the damper. This is not common and prevents broiling the wood with full throttle secondary combustion as with my hearthstone. The other thing is the square firebox. It allows north south loading but also minimizes the surface area exposed to combustion for a given volume of wood. Lastly, that baffle plate is unique in how it does or doesn't blow combustion air onto the wood load. My tube non-cat blasts a lot of air onto the wood in broil mode. One more thing, the PE appears to actually provide you with 2 CF of firebox vs. the other manufacturers (most) that rip you off. I measured under 1.5 CF from my 2.3 CF hearthstone.
Low air does not necessarily mean dirty burning. You'll learn that most non-cat stoves are oversupplied with combustion air to make sure that they don't burn dirty in the worst of conditions.
ridemgis
Feeling the Heat
I'm not sure turning the primary air way down equates to "dirty burning." Isn't that the whole point of the secondary burn?
Incorrect. When burning right, the air controls are usually all the way closed, or very close to it, when running a non-cat. With the Heritage, I would have the air controls 'closed' and the pipe damper close while having the stove cruise at 550+ degrees with no smoke from the chimney.
Ok so I got my first esitmate today. I break it down for you:
1 metalbestos OR Duravent Chimney system $2,285 installed.
1 Pacific Energy Super 27 Heritage w/blower and ashpan and single wall black pipe connector $2,725 installed.
This doesnt include a cement board hearth
This also doesnt include the framing that will need to be done to the hole left by my metal fireplace.
Comments please.
1 metalbestos OR Duravent Chimney system $2,285 installed.
1 Pacific Energy Super 27 Heritage w/blower and ashpan and single wall black pipe connector $2,725 installed.
This doesnt include a cement board hearth
This also doesnt include the framing that will need to be done to the hole left by my metal fireplace.
Comments please.
Here's your price comparison with a comany that is also making a profit. Stove price is too high.
http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/pacsup27.htm
For the chimney, well, that depends on the installation complications and overall length. Typically you could buy another stove for the cost of the chimney so you're not too far off.
Stove price sounds a bit high to me. The base price is about $1600 out here + $300 for the blower. Installation of the stove should take no more than an hour.
Not sure about the chimney system. Is it one or two story? Interior or exterior?
This stove only needs ember protection for the hearth. You could lay down some cement board and cover it with tile for under $100.
Not sure about the chimney system. Is it one or two story? Interior or exterior?
This stove only needs ember protection for the hearth. You could lay down some cement board and cover it with tile for under $100.
Most likely. I never use the ash system on our stove. It's far easier to shovel out the ashes when needed. The firebox is deep enough that this is only every few weeks for us.
Sprinter
Minister of Fire
I just had a dealer sales guy tell me that you aren't supposed to just lay a cement board down on the floor flat without an air space, and that premade hearth pads have that air space. I haven't heard that before and I want to do just that (cement board right on the floor, over the carpet if possible - simple as I can make it). Any truth to that air space thing?
There is truth to that when you are in need of a certain R value. Ember protection, is just that. A non-flammable material used to protect the flooring from hot embers.
It totally depends on the stove. If it only requires ember protection, then a sheet of steel or glass would suffice. If the stove requires a high R value, then an air gap is one solution, but not the only one. And not every hearth pad has an air space. Some use a layer of Micore or Fiberfrax to gain R value.
Sprinter
Minister of Fire
Sorry, I meant on ember-only requirements. I'm pretty sure the guy knew I was referring to ember-only, so I got confused about that. Sounds like that's not the case. I think I'm in love with a stove that has a 90" vertical requirement and the only way to make it is with a flat, almost flush-to-the-floor pad in that location (low point of a vaulted ceiling).
Sprinter, might I suggest you start your own thread to discuss your situation. This thread "belongs" to shiest, and trying to discuss two different installations/sets of requirements in a single thread is less than optimal. Rick
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