THIS POST HAD A VERY INTERESTING PICTURE MODIFYING AIR FLOW ON THE FIRE IN A STOVE ,IF SOMEONE CAN REPOST THIS WITH PICTURES THAT WOULD BE GREAT
yetty734 - 11 May 2008 02:55 PM
I have either a fisher mama bear or granpa bear woodburning stove with no baffle, secondary combustion or anything. What can i do for a reasonable small amount of money to improve its efficiency. I would imagine that installing a baffle would be my number one thing to do, but how do i go about doing this.
does anyone know if 5-6 cords sounds alright for heating 2000 square feet from a basement in a 45 year old house with this stove?
im thinking its a mama bear stove because dont all granpabear stoves have a baffle?
thanks for the advise
cody
Hi Cody,
try this link
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/2522/
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Well here is what I did. After reading about the new stoves with secondary burn technology, I decided it would be an interesting project to upgrade my Fisher stove.
I looked at many of the online stove manuals and looked at the stoves on display at Home Depot and Lowes. I came up with a design for a baffle and secondary air tubes that could be installed with minimal modification to the stove. I modeled the stove and baffle in Pro-E CAD. The baffle is made out of ¼” steel plate, ( it’s made in two pieces so in can fit in the door) , with square tubing attached for the secondary air passage, the air tubes are stainless steel with holes drilled in them. I placed some ceramic insulation on top of the baffle.
The modifications made quite an improvement, the stove seems to put out much more heat than before, wood consumption is reduced and after 10 or 10 minutes there generally there is no visible smoke from the chimney.
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Regency F1100 (upstairs)
Fisher Grandma Bear (basement, semi retired)
Huskey 350 18” (back from the dead)
Remington SL-11A 24”
Homelite Timberman 18”
Homelite XL 16”
McCulloch Eager Beaver electric 16”
Poulan Micro 14”
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BrotherBart
Posted: 12 May 2008 08:30 PM [ Report ] [ Ignore ] [ # 7 ]
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yetty734
Posted: 13 May 2008 05:44 PM [ Report ] [ Ignore ] [ # 8 ]
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that looks pretty good wes. any way you can give me a better set of plans. about how much did that cost you?
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WES999
Posted: 13 May 2008 06:58 PM [ Report ] [ Ignore ] [ # 9 ]
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The secondary air enters the stove through a two 5/8” holes in the back of the stove (see the pic). You can also see the cover plates that can close off the secondary air incase of over firing. (I never had to use them). The air holes and the cover plate holes were the only modifications needed to install the baffle and air tube.
I purchased the stainless steel tubing, rectangular tubing and the ceramic insulation, the plate for the baffle I had. I was able to do all the fab work myself (there is a machine shop at work). I don’t remember the exact cost, probably around $100 of so.
You should be able to get the general idea from the pics; I could probably E-mail some PDF’s if you need more detail. Be aware that the baffle would have to be sized for your stove as it needs to be somewhat of a snug fit.
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Click thumbnail to see full-size image
Signature
Regency F1100 (upstairs)
Fisher Grandma Bear (basement, semi retired)
Huskey 350 18” (back from the dead)
Remington SL-11A 24”
Homelite Timberman 18”
Homelite XL 16”
McCulloch Eager Beaver electric 16”
Poulan Micro 14”