How Can I Tell If My Drolet Legend III Is Cracked?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
It's less than a year old wil be in March. It ran away a couple times this year and is had to controll. I have a one year warrantee.
How tall is your chimney? What temps are you seeing?
 
Do you see something that makes you think its cracked?
Is the door adjusted properly...leaking door seal will let them run away too.
Also, does that one have an ash plug/drawer? If the plug is not seated/sealed properly that'll do it too...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Highbeam
Do you see something that makes you think its cracked?
Is the door adjusted properly...leaking door seal will let them run away too.
Also, does that one have an ash plug/drawer? If the plug is not seated/sealed properly that'll do it too...
Door is adjuststed. That's what cuased the first run away. The set pins for the huinges came loose. Not a fan. First stove I ever had with adjustable hinges. Still burns hot if you don't keep an eye on it Requires constant supervision. Not a fan of the Drolet Legend III.
 
Last edited:
Do you have a key damper? Drolets are easy breathing stoves and with 23' of chimney that can easily cause excessive draft.
 
Do you have a key damper? Drolets are easy breathing stoves and with 23' of chimney that can easily cause excessive draft.
Agreed
 
If you can remove the shields you could try and run a stick of incense around the whole thing
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Newbie78
I would be looking for cracks where the secondary air manifolds are welded to the stove and for severe warpage in the air deflector at the inside top of the door opening and for cracks around the the top corners of the door. Along with the weld that is between the top and the front. Crack’s don’t form in the middle of a sheet or steel.
 
I believe that stove has a lifetime warranty against failed welds.

I think the owner's manual describes how to remove shields.
 
I have a Myriad, although an earlier model. I have 4 feet of single wall and 23' of class A - all straight up. Once this stove is up and running and the wood is charred, all of the control comes in the last 1/4" of the air control, in fact during this very cold weather, I have the draft shut completely with only the secondary air supply to keep it from going out. The vast majority of the stove damper control, if left open will let the stove get much too hot. You simply have to run this stove with the primary air all the way, or nearly all the way in once it is up to temp. When you do that and close the primary, it should be very easy to see if you have any air leaks at that point as the secondary burn has a very slow rolling characteristic to it.
 
Replied already. ... three or four posts up. Yes I do. The thread topic is "How Can I Tell If My Drolet Legend III Is Cracked?" It is NOT is my chimney working correctly. RIF.
The chimney is what drives the stove. The problem is most likely either excessive draft or waiting to long to shut the air down. I see now that you said you have a pipe damper I missed that. What pipe temps are you seeing?
 
If it’s not cracked the burning characteristics mentioned are increase the chances of it cracking.

Not saying it’s never happened but cracks starting in less than a year is unlikely. Bad weld failing sure.

We are just tying to help address the root cause of any overfires as that’s what is responsible for the cracks (unless it’s is a manufacturing defect )
 
The chimney is what drives the stove. The problem is most likely either excessive draft or waiting to long to shut the air down. I see now that you said you have a pipe damper I missed that. What pipe temps are you seeing?
Right now with damper at 90 degrees (shut) and air shut, I'm at 220 F going out the basement wall, with an average of 250 from top of stove to the elbow. Running fine now. just opened the air a tad. We were running into town so I had shut it down completely and we just got back.
 
Right now with damper at 90 degrees (shut) and air shut, I'm at 220 F going out the basement wall, with an average of 250 from top of stove to the elbow. Running fine now. just opened the air a tad. We were running into town so I had shut it down completely and we just got back.
Are those surface temps on single wall pipe?
What temps were you at when it ran away?
 
Surfafe temps using IR lazer thermometer. Run away woundn't register. Over 500 F
And on single wall pipe correct?
Over 500 is certainly to hot but we can't know how bad it is.

What temp do you start shutting back at and how far do you shut it back normally?
 
Replied already. ... three or four posts up. Yes I do. The thread topic is "How Can I Tell If My Drolet Legend III Is Cracked?" It is NOT is my chimney working correctly. RIF.

I just don't understand why people come on here asking for advice (which is free) and are rude to people that are attempting to help them. In my experience not being an a-hole leads to people wanting to help you.
 
I just don't understand why people come on here asking for advice (which is free) and are rude to people that are attempting to help them. In my experience not being an a-hole leads to people wanting to help you.
I apologize. If you were to read through all 24 replies you would see that there are only two that suggest how to check for a crack in your stove.