brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
^ ^ ^ ^
So sorry...maybe just trying to pry more info out of you...guess its true, you get what you paid for. {...danged contrary volunteer stove elves...}
How Can I Tell If My Drolet Legend III Is Cracked?
- Thread starter Queequeg From Rokovoko
- Start date
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Correct, single wall black welded stove pipe. The first run away occured because the door hinges came loose. I belieive ths was due to the tinder/ash tray being too high below the door. Debris would collect there and not alow the door to close fully. I have removed that tray. I like to let it get to 300 or so at the exit past the elbow here it goes out side. I like to run that at about 250 or so. I like to see a rolling flame and have it go out for a few seconds2 - 5 and then flash on for a few seconds 4 - 8. That is perfect for me. And I can get it there now wit damper and restricting air.
My main concern is; Is there a crack? How do I tell? How do I find it?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
My first step would be to strip it down and look for anything resembling a crack
That's three posts now out of 29 that may provide assistance. Actually that was my first go too but hate to strip this thing down this time of year. Just cleaned the basement floor too.
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Since making the changes discussed in the "Starter" thread it sounds like things are working much better and with the damper it sounds like good control is being achieved. I think you are getting the hang of running the stove well.
If there were cracks you might see a jet of yellow flame coming from that area. Otherwise, when the stove is cold, get an assistant and a bright light like a strong LED flashlight. Turn out the room lights and shine the light at the corner seams while your assistant looks for a light leak on the outside of the stove. Also, examine the welds inside and out for cracks.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Might could see fire (or light) through a crack if the stove was bare (any shields/covers removed) in a dark room too...but I think flame coming from the area of a crack would be more likely (inside the stove, not outside)
And to OP, what about that ash plug I asked about in my first post...seated properly?
Defintely. That is a separate step entirely and it would show up in the interior of the stove while burning. The flashlight inspection is with a cold stove.
Ash plug is in. Cleaned that all out a week ago. Ash drawer and exite hole are worthless . Much easier to sift ashes out a grill/screen thing I found at a camp ground.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
I agree with a few other posts, w/ no fire, remove all bricks and baffle, shine a light from the inside of the stove and make sure the room is dark, you will be able to see the light if any cracks on the outside of the stove, checking near welded area's.
If its a door / glass gasket you may be lucky to get some darker soot marks very local to that air leak since the air wash is hitting the door and normal very hot, air intruding from a poor gasket will be cooler leaving a very localized black soot mark.
There is also the very remote chance you cold on a cold stove with the damper closed, light some newspaper and look for / smell the smoke, but I'd be leery of a false positive since smoke may try to back out of the flue collar / single wall stove pipe connection area.
Now for the other posts - some of the more seasoned members have brought up a decent point about stove draft from a chimney system working to well, these newer epa stoves are made for novice burners who may not have adequate seasoned wood, short chimney's or just not know what they're doing, in otherwords, the stove is made / tested to have a cushion for minimal burning application, if you have a high draft, very dry wood, low pressure house to high pressure outside, you may be in for a ride trying to control an easy breathing stove like yours, my system has (2) dampers to slow things down so I literally dont suck all the heat from the stove and up the chimney, my stove wants a .05"wc draft will running at hight (full load of wood ripping in the stove box) before my dampers I tested the draft with a manometer and was cruising at .18"wc (fair weather outside - just chilly) to .24"wc from a consistent wind from the NE. Once I fixed the symptom, the signs of poor burning went away. Take care and good luck.
If its a door / glass gasket you may be lucky to get some darker soot marks very local to that air leak since the air wash is hitting the door and normal very hot, air intruding from a poor gasket will be cooler leaving a very localized black soot mark.
There is also the very remote chance you cold on a cold stove with the damper closed, light some newspaper and look for / smell the smoke, but I'd be leery of a false positive since smoke may try to back out of the flue collar / single wall stove pipe connection area.
Now for the other posts - some of the more seasoned members have brought up a decent point about stove draft from a chimney system working to well, these newer epa stoves are made for novice burners who may not have adequate seasoned wood, short chimney's or just not know what they're doing, in otherwords, the stove is made / tested to have a cushion for minimal burning application, if you have a high draft, very dry wood, low pressure house to high pressure outside, you may be in for a ride trying to control an easy breathing stove like yours, my system has (2) dampers to slow things down so I literally dont suck all the heat from the stove and up the chimney, my stove wants a .05"wc draft will running at hight (full load of wood ripping in the stove box) before my dampers I tested the draft with a manometer and was cruising at .18"wc (fair weather outside - just chilly) to .24"wc from a consistent wind from the NE. Once I fixed the symptom, the signs of poor burning went away. Take care and good luck.
Yes it is up on three bricks approximately 2 & 1/2 inches each, totals about 7 inches. SBI suggest shortening the stove pipe with my first complaint about excessive smoke out of an open door, Also suggest I remove damper. Then later recommed I insert damper after run away. Those people are nuts. Does allow an ancillary fan underneith now to scrub more heat.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
Since the intake is at the bottom of the stove, is the fan adding additional boost? just curious
No. The intake came with a 5/8ths inch hole in the plate to allow for a minimum air intake. I placed a magnet over that hole after the fist run off so I could have complete control using the air intake. That was one of the reasons, I believe, the stove kept going nuts.
Again, I can control the stove now. I am concerned if the previous run aways may have damaged the stove. That is what this thread is (supposed to be) about.
I have to look at this every once in a while to calm my sole. My Grand Daughter.
Well that's the only way to find a potential crack. But honestly there is very very little chance of one being there.
Thanks. I was hoping someone would suggest an easier way. My buddy has an infrared scope thing. We're going to look at this stove with that.
What makes you think that it may have damaged something? It generally takes allot of severe over fires to cause any damage
Stove still requires constant supervision. I don't feel safe leaving the basement let alone the house. Goes from dead to way hot in a half hour. Can't find the "sweet spot". Got to shut it down to a smolder before going anywhere. Could not do that before my modifications. Don't want to shut it completely down for creasote issues even though my wood is dry. One thing the SBI said "Well maybe your wood is too dry" That's what made me think they are More Ons. Shouldn't have to make modifications to a stove they tout as being so good.
What makes you think shutting it down all the way is going to make creosote?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
The general wood burning public are the morons...always trying to burn "seasoned" wood, so the OEM has to make stoves to burn said wood well...so then people that have actual dry firewood have to mod stove/chimney to accommodate
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