How should I attack these felled trunks?

[drewmo]

I've got an 18" bar on my Husky and these Norway maples are around ~32" diameter (~85" circumference" at the widest.) There's 3 of them in total. Am I in over my head? I was thinking of sawing as best I could, then flip them. The flipping will likely be near next to impossible, though.

 

[nrford]

If you make cut standing on one side of log, then move to other side of log your 18" bar should not have a problem cutting through 32" as 18"+18"=36". Works every time for me!

 

[paul bunion]

First get yourself a peavey/cant hook because you are going to need to roll them.

When cutting lean over the log as far as you safely can, running your saw into the log until it is almost vertical. This will clear the wood out from 12 o'clock to 3:00 AM or so. Then bring the saw down, cutting out the piece from midnight to 9:00 PM. Then wedge the top a few times so you can't pinch your bar and keep cutting from both sides through to the bottom or near the bottom and roll to finish. Knock the wedges in deeper when you can get the kerf to open.

 

[Paulywalnut]

You'll be fine with an 18 inch. Hook it or roll it with a few buddies.

 

[red oak]

If you make cut standing on one side of log, then move to other side of log your 18" bar should not have a problem cutting through 32" as 18"+18"=36". Works every time for me!

I did this a few years ago with a similar size log and an 18" bar. Cut one side, walked around to the other side and finished the cut. Had no one with me so rolling it wasn't an option. Cutting one side then the other worked fine though. Went a bit slow but was worth it.

 

[Mag Craft]

With the right peavey you can roll those logs. This is one I made just for large logs.

 

[BrotherBart]

Dig under that spot that has some light under it. Then make the first cut up through the log. Then you have two pieces that are a lot easier to flop over.

 

[Mag Craft]

Dig under that spot that has some light under it. Then make the first cut up through the log. Then you have two pieces that are a lot easier to flop over.

Make sure to use a plastic wedge at the top when your cutting at the bottom.

 

[BrotherBart]

Make sure to use a plastic wedge at the top when your cutting at the bottom.

Nope. It is gonna drop and you cut right through. If you go in from the top you need the wedge to keep from binding the saw.

 

[Mag Craft]

Nope. It is gonna drop and you cut right through. If you go in from the top you need the wedge to keep from binding the saw.

You are correct, that is what I meant. If you start at the top and then when you get to the bottom it will pinch without at wedge.

 

[BrotherBart]

You are correct, that is what I meant. If you start at the top and then when you get to the bottom it will pinch without at wedge.

Yeah. There are times when cutting up, not down, is the only way to do it. And this is one of them.

 

[Mag Craft]

Ok.

 

[BobUrban]

Sometimes you can get most of the way through and then wedge off the round with either felling wedges or even a splitting wedge. As you go the log obviously becomes more manageable. Take your time but you have plenty of saw to tackle that tree.

 

[paul bunion]

Dig under that spot that has some light under it. Then make the first cut up through the log. Then you have two pieces that are a lot easier to flop over.

Or just put a piece of 2x under the spot with light and cut down, wedging to hold it open. The 2x will keep you from bottoming out your chain in the dirt.

 

[Ralphie Boy]

This is one I made just for large logs.

Is that cottonwood?

 

[Mag Craft]

Is that cottonwood?

Yes.

 

[Soundchasm]

If you don't have one, I really recommend a file and sharpening guide. I did some big rounds with a 16" bar last fall, and w/o a sharp chain, I'd still be out there!

 

[bigbarf48]

Id make cuts as deep as you can, and then use that limb sticking out to roll the whole log over and finish the cuts

 

[lindnova]

I have cut a lot of logs like that with my MS260 18" bar. Just takes longer. One thing I do with some of the big stuff is use some small pieces of wood to shim up where there is a gap below to hold the log up. Sometimes you can get a cut thru and not have as much log to roll over for the rest of the cuts. On some of the really big ugly pieces if you can't roll them use a wedge to hold the cut open and try not to hit the ground. Sometimes you do hit the ground and then you utilize your file more often.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

For sure it sounds like a lot of folks haven't done much cutting like this. Brother Bart was correct. Any time you are cutting a log and see that spot under the log where you can get the saw in, cut it there. It will save you a lot of headache. But first, I would cut from top down and keep a very close eye on the kerf. Any movement, you get that saw out fast. You can do this without pinching the saw if you pay close attention to it. Then go about the under cutting. It is simple and it works.

For sure a saw with an 18" bar is saw enough to cut that. I could cut that with my Stihl 290 that has a 16" bar with no problem.

I also see over and over and over about putting wedges in the top. In well over 50 years of cutting I have never put a wedge in when bucking up a tree. If it is cut right, there is no need for a wedge.

 

[Mag Craft]

We'll I myself have done plenty of cutting like this and it is just as easy to cut it from the top down and to roll the log. Everyone has their own way of doing it.

 

[jatoxico]

Whatever you do watch for nails and eye-hooks in that row of yard trees.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Yup, many seem to have their own way of doing it but once they learn the correct and best way, they'll never go back.

 

[Mag Craft]

Yup, many seem to have their own way of doing it but once they learn the correct and best way, they'll never go back.

What ever.

 

[jatoxico]

With the right peavey you can roll those logs. This is one I made just for large logs.

View attachment 131281

You'd need a big peavey if you had to roll stuff like that around all the time. Nice one.