How to know with confidence you just picked the right stove for your home

[Tectop]

I have read several places about selecting the right stove size. Every place I read say's you can't hang you hat on the specification sheet that is posted on new stoves. So if your buying your first wood stove and you can't trust the spec sheet when it comes to heating capacity (area to be heated), BTU output what should I use when selecting a wood stove? I want to feel good I picked the right one . Let me finish with saying , y'all are the best in here and a great source of information. Let me thank you all for your time and help to us all.

 

[Nick Mystic]

I think buying a new stove is a lot like purchasing a new car. Almost any car will give you basic transportation, but some cars will be more efficient than others, go faster, look sportier, etc. It depends on what your ultimate goal is for the car that will determine which car is likely to make you happiest. I have two completely different stoves and they both perform well and fulfill their function of supplying heat to our home. So, you need to sit down and determine what you expect out of the stove you purchase before you start shopping. You mention selecting the right size stove and that's probably a good starting point. How are going to use the stove? Is it going to be your main source of heat? Will you use it primarily to just heat a particular area of your house as opposed to the entire house? While spec sheets from manufacturers might sometimes be misleading you can count on larger stoves throwing more heat for a longer period of time than smaller stoves. So, while two stoves of a similar size might boast slightly higher or lower BTU outputs than each other you can figure both stoves are going to put out more heat than comparable quality smaller stoves. If you want specific recommendations from hearth forum members you will need to provide some specific information on your home size, floor plan, and heating goals. Welcome aboard and good luck in your wood burning education.

 

[Tectop]

I think buying a new stove is a lot like purchasing a new car. Almost any car will give you basic transportation, but some cars will be more efficient than others, go faster, look sportier, etc. It depends on what your ultimate goal is for the car that will determine which car is likely to make you happiest. I have two completely different stoves and they both perform well and fulfill their function of supplying heat to our home. So, you need to sit down and determine what you expect out of the stove you purchase before you start shopping. You mention selecting the right size stove and that's probably a good starting point. How are going to use the stove? Is it going to be your main source of heat? Will you use it primarily to just heat a particular area of your house as opposed to the entire house? While spec sheets from manufacturers might sometimes be misleading you can count on larger stoves throwing more heat for a longer period of time than smaller stoves. So, while two stoves of a similar size might boast slightly higher or lower BTU outputs than each other you can figure both stoves are going to put out more heat than comparable quality smaller stoves. If you want specific recommendations from hearth forum members you will need to provide some specific information on your home size, floor plan, and heating goals. Welcome aboard and good luck in your wood burning education.

Thanks for your reply.Hope this is not dumb question but when you say a large size are you referring to the actual physical size of the heater, or the size of the fire box volume ? Reason I ask this is because I'v seen stoves that is physically bigger but fire box volume size is smaller on the spec sheet then some smaller size physically speaking that has a larger fire box. Hope this is not a dumb question just want to make sure I fully understand .Thanks again for your help

 

[bluedogz]

Thanks for your reply.Hope this is not dumb question but when you say a large size are you referring to the actual physical size of the heater, or the size of the fire box volume ? Reason I ask this is because I'v seen stoves that is physically bigger but fire box volume size is smaller on the spec sheet then some smaller size physically speaking that has a larger fire box. Hope this is not a dumb question just want to make sure I fully understand .Thanks again for your help

Not a dumb question at all- rather astute actually. The firebox size is what controls how much fuel you can cram in and heat you can expect out, not the stove's outside dimensions. You'll do better comparing, say, one 1.7 cu. ft. stove to another, rather than depending on a manufacturer to say "heats XXX SF, we swear."

 

[Tectop]

Not a dumb question at all- rather astute actually. The firebox size is what controls how much fuel you can cram in and heat you can expect out, not the stove's outside dimensions. You'll do better comparing, say, one 1.7 cu. ft. stove to another, rather than depending on a manufacturer to say "heats XXX SF, we swear."

Thanks for all the helpful info

 

[jillybeansisme]

Hi Tectop! I'm new here too and researching wood stoves. Some things to think about that are important . . . there are non-catalytic and catalytic wood stoves. Supposedly the non-catalytic are easier to get fires started (and alot of them have a second combustion system for clean burning). Also, if the firebox is more square, you can load the wood in two directions (crossed over) so logs don't fall toward the glass window. If the firebox floor is 3" below the door you won't have ash blow so easily when you open the door to load the wood. Stay away from top loaders so you don't get a smoke/heat blast trying to load wood. You don't want to have to burn wood at the top rate to heat your home -- you want one big enough to heat your home when it is mid-range. I was going to go with a small one because I didn't want to be roasted out of my living room but after much research, I'm going with a medium-sized one because the heat will seep throughout the open spaces and rise. Unless the ash tray is self-closing, you probably don't want it because the ashes will spew when you remove the tray from the firebox. A bucket and shovel will work.

 

[Highbeam]

Firebox size is of very high importance for several reasons such as burn time, allowable firewood size, heat output, and space in your home. You can't trust the published specs on this though. Some brands are very accurate with firebox size but most lie about it and actually overstate their firebox size significantly.

After living with a small 2.3 CF "rated" hearthstone heritage, I really appreciate more firebox space with my larger stoves.

 

[ridensnow23]

And one more piece of advice. Take a tape measure and measure the inside of the firebox yourself.

My two insert are supposedly very close in cubic feet, but I can tell you that I can a lot more wood in one than the other.

 

[Tectop]

And one more piece of advice. Take a tape measure and measure the inside of the firebox yourself.

My two insert are supposedly very close in cubic feet, but I can tell you that I can a lot more wood in one than the other.

Thanks a lot for all the information. To be honest, I have not even considered the depth of the firebox to the bottom of the door opening, makes a lot of since now that you pointed that factor out. I am considering a stove made by Buck stove named the Little John. One of the main reasons at first is that this is the only local stove dealer I have and my wife and I have seen one on his display floor. It's an EPA exempt stove even tho its a new stove.The physical dimensions are small in comparisons to a lot of stoves , first words out of my wife's mouth when she seen it was, It looks to small to get any kind of good heat out of it. Compared to the other Buck free standing stoves he had on display it was smaller, but the Spec sheet tells it has a cubic feet fire box volume at 2.8, this fire box size put it at the largest he had. Stove dimensions are 17'' W X 24-3/16'' H x 26-1/4'' D. Like I mentioned before, my main reason for looking so hard at this stove is because only stove dealer of any kind I know of in my area and the price sounds good to me at under $600 for a new free standing stove. I am also open to buying a used stove if one catches my eye. What ever stove I buy will be supplemental heat to hopefully keep the heat pump from running as much on the colder days., Thanks to you all.

 

[ridensnow23]

Thanks a lot for all the information. To be honest, I have not even considered the depth of the firebox to the bottom of the door opening, makes a lot of since now that you pointed that factor out. I am considering a stove made by Buck stove named the Little John. One of the main reasons at first is that this is the only local stove dealer I have and my wife and I have seen one on his display floor. It's an EPA exempt stove even tho its a new stove.The physical dimensions are small in comparisons to a lot of stoves , first words out of my wife's mouth when she seen it was, It looks to small to get any kind of good heat out of it. Compared to the other Buck free standing stoves he had on display it was smaller, but the Spec sheet tells it has a cubic feet fire box volume at 2.8, this fire box size put it at the largest he had. Stove dimensions are 17'' W X 24-3/16'' H x 26-1/4'' D. Like I mentioned before, my main reason for looking so hard at this stove is because only stove dealer of any kind I know of in my area and the price sounds good to me at under $600 for a new free standing stove. I am also open to buying a used stove if one catches my eye. What ever stove I buy will be supplemental heat to hopefully keep the heat pump from running as much on the colder days., Thanks to you all.

I would avoid getting a non-EPA stove. They do not burn efficiently and just belch smoke. End result is that you get a bunch of creosote build up in the chimney. You put yourself at a lot more risk of a chimney fire with those things.

Do yourself a favor and get yourself an EPA stove. I g disagree with the EPA on a lot of things, but this is actually one thing they got got right as far as I am concerned.

 

[Kosmik]

EPA cert stove will also radiate more heat per cord, than non-EPA...
Which translates to less work/cost for heating.

What would really be helpful is:
~pictures of home,
~layout and dimensions of home,
~insulation specs of said home,
~budget,
~time available to project,
~construction related experience,
~Lifestyle, are you home all day/evening in winter or do you leave for hours on end,
~primary heat source/secondary,
~What is your current heat source (it's rating, typical fuel usage in a season/year)
~Where in your home do you want to place it
~Who will be operating it (children, disabled, ect..) Some stoves are easier on the user than others.
~Can you wake up too a cool house, or do you need a long burn time for sleeping in/going out?...

Basically tell us a little more about you and your situation.
Like buying a car, you're not just buying it based on MPG, MSRP, HP or any other stat. You want it to fit with your lifestyle. So we'd need to know a little about your lifestyle.

Biggest question: Do you have a maul/axe, chainsaw or woodpile CSS (cut split and stacked) already? I learned the hard way that is the first purchase a wood heater should make.

 

[Tectop]

I would avoid getting a non-EPA stove. They do not burn efficiently and just belch smoke. End result is that you get a bunch of creosote build up in the chimney. You put yourself at a lot more risk of a chimney fire with those things.

Do yourself a favor and get yourself an EPA stove. I g disagree with the EPA on a lot of things, but this is actually one thing they got got right as far as I am concerned.

EPA cert stove will also radiate more heat per cord, than non-EPA...
Which translates to less work/cost for heating.

What would really be helpful is:
~pictures of home,
~layout and dimensions of home,
~insulation specs of said home,
~budget,
~time available to project,
~construction related experience,
~Lifestyle, are you home all day/evening in winter or do you leave for hours on end,
~primary heat source/secondary,
~What is your current heat source (it's rating, typical fuel usage in a season/year)
~Where in your home do you want to place it
~Who will be operating it (children, disabled, ect..) Some stoves are easier on the user than others.
~Can you wake up too a cool house, or do you need a long burn time for sleeping in/going out?...

Basically tell us a little more about you and your situation.
Like buying a car, you're not not just buying it based on MPG, MSRP, HP or any other stat. You want it to fit with your lifestyle. So we'd need to know a little about your lifestyle.

Biggest question: Do you have a maul/axe, chainsaw or woodpile CSS (cut split and stacked) already? I learned the hard way that is the first purchase a wood heater should make.

I know my current scenario is not the best of conditions for peak efficiency from a wood stove, but I am hoping for a good starting spot and to give my main heat ( Heat pump ) a little relief. I am wanting to see how my current layout goes and go from there, this is another reason I didn't want to sink a pile of money into a wood heater in case it fails. I do have chainsaw and a maul. I currently have a oak tree cut up and split and stacked that was cut down this past spring 2013 and not looking to start burning till winter of 14. Ok here is a my current scenario,My house is aprox 1700 sq ft house , 2 level. L evel one is an unfinshed basement and where the heater will be located. 2nd level is the living level with bed rooms , kitchen, bathes living room. Floor is insulated underside, ( basement side } with carpet on the top side of the floor. I know this is not the ideal scenario but I am wondering if this will be ok for supplement heat, i was also thinking of leaving the basement door open when heater was in use.Again I can only see me burning when the temp drops in the low 20ths and maybe a cold weekend, and during power outages .I work during the week and am home on weekends. I live in the foothills of western N.C.Thanks again for all the information, y'all are a great bunch of people here.

 

[tcassavaugh]

heating from the basement can be done. a lot of folks here do, me being one of them just keep in mind that it will take a while for that heat to transmit/permeate into the rest of the house like up through the floors and walls. once it does, it also takes awhile to cool down which can be a good thing. i have a pe summit downstairs in the basement as a main heater and a jotul upstairs as an additional heater for when it gets real cold or shoulder season or the beginning and end of heating season when i don't need as much heat. unfinished basement can be good because it allows the heat to seep through the rest of the upstairs in addition to trying to find the staircase. however, uninsulated walls can rob heat away from you. i like the comment about a deep firebox to keep the ash and cinders from falling out. i prefer an ash bin although i like a grate vs. a trap door that some stoves have. pay attention to the firebox like others have said and the btu. I've found that heating from the basement i have to run it a little harder to heat about 1200 sq ft downstairs and the 1200 upstairs. good luck, keep us posted.

 

[CenterTree]

It's gonna be difficult to get much heat upstairs where you need it. That insulation in the floor will block the heat, keeping it in the basement and then since the basement is not insulated (unfinished?) at the walls, the heat will just exit to the outside, leaving you frustrated. IMHO.

Opening the basement door to the upstairs will help , but maybe not as much as you hope.

 

[jillybeansisme]

Tectop, I know nothing about that wood stove your local guy has available for under $600 but I do beg you to check reviews on it before you buy it. Some of the cheap ones that are around that price fall apart or are such thin metal they burn through. Also, if it is too small, then it won't do what you want, which is to heat upstairs. Heat rises but you have to have enough of it to get it up there and you don't want to burn at maximum capacity. You can always have a wood stove shipped to you and if you buy it at the end of a heating season, you can probably get one on sale to offset shipping costs and more! Also remember, reviews from a place where they sell product tend to have great reviews of those particular products and bad reviews of products they don't sell. Look for reviews on this website for the one you're looking at to see what is said and check out a few other brands too. The more I read in this website, the more I lean toward the Pacific Earth in a medium-sized firebox. I've also heard Drolet makes a reasonable priced medium-sized stove. Check the reviews though!

 

[razerface]

Stay away from top loaders so you don't get a smoke/heat blast trying to load wood.

Unless the ash tray is self-closing, you probably don't want it because the ashes will spew when you remove the tray from the firebox. A bucket and shovel will work.

not true,, i own a top loader. If you cannot stand the heat it puts out,,you are reloading it too soon. I reach right down inside and position splits exactly where i want them. (wear gloves) I have never opened the front door for reloading purposes. I can reload completely to the top since nothing can roll out the top ,,,,,I prefer top loading, and that was one of the selling points for my stove.

If it spews smoke out,,,you have a problem with draft,,and again,,you are reloading too soon.. It should all be coals on reload,,99% of the time.

My toploader has an unusually large ash pan,,which I LOVE. I only empty ashes once a week or so, burning 24/7,,and it is not messy at all! In fact,, I do not even have to sweep or anything after emptying ashes,,, usually.

 

[Kosmik]

You can always have a wood stove shipped to you

I know the shop in my town the lady is pretty worthless when it comes to answering questions, and she isn't exactly customer service oriented.
So I can help pay for her S4 or just save the middleman fee and get it online.

Perhaps if the stoveshop owner has extensive knowledge and is helpful.

But not much to go wrong in shipping, a lot of stoves shipped by pallet (big steel box with bricks), perhaps a damaged brick or two, but they really have to be screwing it up in transit for you to have a problem. It's not like they fire your stove up at the store and check it, like they would a chainsaw. So you just pay extra to have it shipped to the storefront, sit in the storefront, and then be delivered/transferred to you. Not like you can tell if the stove will be right for your home when there are 4 other stoves running, heating the building.

 

[Tectop]

Tectop, I know nothing about that wood stove your local guy has available for under $600 but I do beg you to check reviews on it before you buy it. Some of the cheap ones that are around that price fall apart or are such thin metal they burn through. Also, if it is too small, then it won't do what you want, which is to heat upstairs. Heat rises but you have to have enough of it to get it up there and you don't want to burn at maximum capacity. You can always have a wood stove shipped to you and if you buy it at the end of a heating season, you can probably get one on sale to offset shipping costs and more! Also remember, reviews from a place where they sell product tend to have great reviews of those particular products and bad reviews of products they don't sell. Look for reviews on this website for the one you're looking at to see what is said and check out a few other brands too. The more I read in this website, the more I lean toward the Pacific Earth in a medium-sized firebox. I've also heard Drolet makes a reasonable priced medium-sized stove. Check the reviews though!

Thank you all for your help and guid

Tectop, I know nothing about that wood stove your local guy has available for under $600 but I do beg you to check reviews on it before you buy it. Some of the cheap ones that are around that price fall apart or are such thin metal they burn through. Also, if it is too small, then it won't do what you want, which is to heat upstairs. Heat rises but you have to have enough of it to get it up there and you don't want to burn at maximum capacity. You can always have a wood stove shipped to you and if you buy it at the end of a heating season, you can probably get one on sale to offset shipping costs and more! Also remember, reviews from a place where they sell product tend to have great reviews of those particular products and bad reviews of products they don't sell. Look for reviews on this website for the one you're looking at to see what is said and check out a few other brands too. The more I read in this website, the more I lean toward the Pacific Earth in a medium-sized firebox. I've also heard Drolet makes a reasonable priced medium-sized stove. Check the reviews though!

Thanks for your help. I have looked several different places on the net for a review on the wood heater called Little John made by Buck Stove. Buck Stove has been around for years and all their stoves are made here in the USA, as a matter of fact their made about 2 hrs from me here in N.C. But I cant find one customer review on the little john stove at all. I would love to hear from some actual users to get their opinion on the heater. I am thinking go as big as I can afford anyway. I do like the idea of having a EPA stove .

 

[begreen]

The Little John appears to be a simple non-EPA steel stove. It is not approved for use in the west. If you want big, affordable and EPA, go over the mountains to VA and select an Englander 30NC. Or pick it up at your local Home Depot.

 

[Tectop]

The Little John appears to be a simple non-EPA steel stove. It is not approved for use in the west. If you want big, affordable and EPA, go over the mountains to VA and select an Englander 30NC. Or pick it up at your local Home Depot.

Thanks for the suggestion on the Englander 30NC . After reading the specs and with a home Depot within driving distance I think I just found my stove.Thank too all for your help and support.

 

[begreen]

Good deal. Read over the stove manual for clearance and hearth requirements to be sure it is a good, safe fit.

http://www.englanderstoves.com/manuals.html

 

[nooboo]

As an Englander 30 NC user, I concur it is a good stove for the money.

It holds coals a lot longer after I re-cut the (thin and damaged) ceramic baffles, but it is also prone to smoke into the house, dispute a manometer checked draft. Here is a video:

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My GSHP is not working tonight and I am thinking that we need a bigger stove for our big house.

What is the BIGGEST EPA stove out there? Or I am going to go with a gasification boiler.

 

[begreen]

Regency 5100, BK King, Kuma Sequoia are all very large stoves.