HVAC fan

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However, he uses magnatic covers to cover over all the cold air return vents except the main one in his stove room. Anybody ever hear about doing it that way ?
That is a sure way to burn out the furnace motor. It is designed to work under a certain amount of static pressure.
 
Thank God it doesn't get that cold here in n/e WA. The circulate setting on the furnace was not productive. So far, I've achieved the best result with a portable fan at the top of the stairs pointed down into the basement, in addition to the two ceiling fans. Last night the outside temp dropped to 17 degrees (F) and the basement stayed about 65.
Wow, that's 25º colder than we were.
 
My nephew uses his HVAC fan to circulate the heat and he says it works good. However, he uses magnatic covers to cover over all the cold air return vents except the main one in his stove room. Anybody ever hear about doing it that way ?
Thank God it doesn't get that cold here in n/e WA. The circulate setting on the furnace was not productive. So far, I've achieved the best result with a portable fan at the top of the stairs pointed down into the basement, in addition to the two ceiling fans. Last night the outside temp dropped to 17 degrees (F) and the basement stayed about 65.
Yes, running the furnace fan doesn’t do much for moving the heat around the house, but it does make just enough of a difference that I have to run it during the dead of winter in order to squeeze that extra few degrees of heat into the basement. Unfortunately it’s the only option for me, as the only access to my basement is from outside. It’s a bedrock floor, so it’s a cool space to begin with. I have spray foam on the walls, but in the winter when it’s that cold, that space looses heat quickly down to around 8-10 degrees otherwise.
 
Need to be careful. Blocking airflow will increase the load on the motor and raise the amp draw. If the return register is fairly large it may be OK. If doing this he will really need to clean or replace the filter often. A dirty filter on top of blocked registers will burn the blower motor up fairly quickly. Then if the furnace comes on with blocked registers and dirty filters, the furnace could overheat and kick off on high limit. Keep aware.
Blocking the entering air will reduce the load on the motor and reduce amp draw. Simple test, remove cover to the blower and watch the amperage increase.
 
Yea, it increases due to pressure difference. Unlimited incoming air and limited exit, so it is no longer just moving the air, it is pumping. The available air in a closed home is finite. A cfm variance in either direction will raise amp draw.
 
Blocking the entering air will reduce the load on the motor and reduce amp draw. Simple test, remove cover to the blower and watch the amperage increase.

Not sure I'm buying that one.
 
Not sure I'm buying that one.

This has happened before when relating to motors. I see where the dispute is. Im talking about a variable speed blower and MissedBass is thinking of a PSC motor. We are both right.
 
This has happened before when relating to motors. I see where the dispute is. Im talking about a variable speed blower and MissedBass is thinking of a PSC motor. We are both right.
You beat me to it. I was thinking PSC while you are thinking VS. Sorry for thinking old school, VS,ECM motors and VFD's are whats happening now.
 
You beat me to it. I was thinking PSC while you are thinking VS. Sorry for thinking old school, VS,ECM motors and VFD's are whats happening now.

VS is all the rage as is multi stage. More chance for failure if you ask me. And they cost more! Blah.
 
Note to self. Refrain from blanket statements. ;)
 
Note to self. Refrain from blanket statements. ;)
Haha! Anyway I would not block off any returns and I would think 75-80 degree air moving through the house would feel more like a cool breeze
 
The intake for my HVAC unit is in the basement about 25 feet from the boiler and water heater. The flues Share the same chimney as the stove. Last time I ran the blower when the stove was operating I smoked out the house and I think the negative pressure in the basement was the biggest cause.
 
The intake for my HVAC unit is in the basement about 25 feet from the boiler and water heater. The flues Share the same chimney as the stove. Last time I ran the blower when the stove was operating I smoked out the house and I think the negative pressure in the basement was the biggest cause.
Are there multiple flues in the chimney? The stove must have an independent flue system.

It could be the furnace is pulling too much air from the basement due to an oversized return air register. A balanced system should not create negative pressure. Our hvac can run simultaneously with the stove running will no ill effect.
 
Are there multiple flues in the chimney? The stove must have an independent flue system.

It could be the furnace is pulling too much air from the basement due to an oversized return air register. A balanced system should not create negative pressure. Our hvac can run simultaneously with the stove running will no ill effect.

Yes different flues.

No furnace, just AC unit

There is no return air. I replaced the basement door with a slatted on to reduce the pressure differential across it.
 
I think you are putting your basement in a negative with a slatted door. You need make up air for the water heater, boiler, dryer, etc. Crack a window in the basement
 
Most HVAC return air registers for heating pourposes are located low near the floor. And all rooms no matter the floor (basement 1st floor etc) are stratified with the coldest air at the floor. Put a thermometer near the returns. It's kind of surprising how little warm air is actually being circulated when the hvac fan is running. Also, a stick of incense smoke goes a long way to figuring out airflows, possible restrictions to airflow, and to determine if fans will help or not.
 
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I "bump" my furnace every other hour or so to keep the other areas of the house from getting too cold. Basically i turn up the thermostat 2 degrees higher than that it is showing as the current temp. It runs for 10min or so. I then turn it back to the preset temp which is way lower than what the real temp is due to the wood heat. Seems to work great. 10min every two hours of propane is better than cold rooms and better than no wood heat...

I feel like a lot of folks on here try to rely on wood heat solely either out of budget restrictions or pride of wood heat. I dont have budget concerns and only mildly proud my house is warm/hot from the wood. I lose no pride in turning my furnace on every now and then to keep everything comfortable.
 
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I "bump" my furnace every other hour or so to keep the other areas of the house from getting too cold. Basically i turn up the thermostat 2 degrees higher than that it is showing as the current temp. It runs for 10min or so. I then turn it back to the preset temp which is way lower than what the real temp is due to the wood heat. Seems to work great. 10min every two hours of propane is better than cold rooms and better than no wood heat...

I feel like a lot of folks on here try to rely on wood heat solely either out of budget restrictions or pride of wood heat. I dont have budget concerns and only mildly proud my house is warm/hot from the wood. I lose no pride in turning my furnace on every now and then to keep everything comfortable.
That is a good idea. How many have run there stoves/inserts 24/7 and kept their primary heat off only to find water leaks from broken pipes later on.
 
I can attest to the fact that running the furnace fan full time will actually cool the house, rather than circulate the heat given a normal setup. Basement is cold and the cold air return has a lot of surface area. I ran my furnace fan full time to try it out, it's a new ECM, VS whatever it's called, it's highly efficient. It only raised my power bill by $10 running 24/7. But I noticed when I turned it off from continuous run that my main floor temp jumped 3 degrees. Not so good for winter, better for summer cooling.
 
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