brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Yes, yes you could
At that point its probably not worth worrying about anymore...other than to monitor further...it might get a little warmer once the stove is repeatedly loaded up for cold weather though...maybe?
I am having a True North N10 installed as we speak.. I have some questions
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Maybe I calibrated the IR wrong? Those directions were written in the tiniest print ever.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
Sorry, I should have specified, but I used an Imperial spacer kit, also found on amazon.
Spacer kit: Amazon product ASIN B00702TN3Q
Metal Backsplash: Amazon product ASIN B0051HF1W4
Seems the backsplash is unavailable currently, but I'm sure you could find others, that's just the one I used.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
A piece of ductwork sheetmetal (like below) from whatever bigbox or hardware store is close by would do the job too...can of high temp spray paint and that spacer kit...bam, heatshield!
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
If you are still worried about wall temperatures and want to do something to help you sleep better then sure, have at it.
First, none of this requires you to move the stove. The 3" clearance is from the stove to combustibles which is your sheetrock surface so anything noncombustible can be within the 3" clearance.
Then, you don't need to build an official NFPA wallshield with a 1" airspace. Any wall shielding you install is optional and does not need to meet a specification other than being noncombustible if it's closer than 3". The shielding can be against the sheetrock, spaced out slightly, or 3" away if you want. There are no requirements on how this extra shielding is installed.
The old barn tin, or even new shiny tin, shown by brennda can look great and since it is corrugated it will create a decent air gap.
First, none of this requires you to move the stove. The 3" clearance is from the stove to combustibles which is your sheetrock surface so anything noncombustible can be within the 3" clearance.
Then, you don't need to build an official NFPA wallshield with a 1" airspace. Any wall shielding you install is optional and does not need to meet a specification other than being noncombustible if it's closer than 3". The shielding can be against the sheetrock, spaced out slightly, or 3" away if you want. There are no requirements on how this extra shielding is installed.
The old barn tin, or even new shiny tin, shown by brennda can look great and since it is corrugated it will create a decent air gap.
Awesome! Thank you so much! What if that shield puts it closer than the clearances allow? That would put the stove at about 1 1/2 inch clearance and it should be 3.. I apologize for all the questions, but you guys seem to be the place to come with them
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
Awesome! Thank you so much! What if that shield puts it closer than the clearances allow? That would put the stove at about 1 1/2 inch clearance and it should be 3.. I apologize for all the questions, but you guys seem to be the place to come with them
As long as the shield material is non combustible it doesn't matter since you are within the limits for a non shielded install. That's more or less what highbeam was saying as well.
My heat shield is so I can reduce clearances to the manual allowed 2" with heat shield. In my case this is the linked backsplash with 1" spacers and then the stove is one inch from the heat shield bringing me to the two inches from combustible material. While you could certainly just prop some metal against the wall, it won't do much to reduce the amount of heat the sheetrock will be subjected to. The 1" air gap creates an air cooled shield which creates a functional heat shield.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
As Hibeam just mentioned....you can pretty much put it wherever you want since its not required (or even really needed?) but about 1" off the wall would be the most effective as an air cooled shield...which being metal, is not combustible, so no clearance spec required.Awesome! Thank you so much! What if that shield puts it closer than the clearances allow? That would put the stove at about 1 1/2 inch clearance and it should be 3.. I apologize for all the questions, but you guys seem to be the place to come with them
And by the way...a proper wall shield is required to be mounted about 1" up from the floor too, so it can pull cool air in from the bottom (it will act like a chimney when it warms up...the whole hot air rises thing)
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
You can get 3' lengths of this corrugated metal roofing for projects too...there are a ton of options out there for thin gauge sheet metal panels like this...
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
HD is probably a better link since I know there are no Menards out that way...
Amerimax Home Products 3 ft. Galvanized Steel Corrugated Project Panel (3-Pack) 4736011001 - The Home Depot
Bring the unique and custom look of metal panels into your projects with the 3 ft. corrugated project panel from Amerimax. These project panels are pre-cut in easy to handle 3 ft. length and come 3 per
www.homedepot.com
Clearances are based on the distance to the nearest combustible, not the heat shield. But honestly so far there has not been a demonstrated need for a heat shield.Awesome! Thank you so much! What if that shield puts it closer than the clearances allow? That would put the stove at about 1 1/2 inch clearance and it should be 3.. I apologize for all the questions, but you guys seem to be the place to come with them
DuaeGuttae
Minister of Fire
I had to have my daughter bring me a pretty powerful magnifying glass yesterday when I was checking her Algebra work. It turns out that I read the fraction from her book properly, and she misread it, but neither one of us could tell for sure without magnification. I know I need a trip to the eye doctor.
I know there's lots of discussion of how you can do a heat shield, but do you actually want one? If you don't, you can do a few more fires and see if you can either change the emissivity on the IR gun or affix something black to the wall temporarily. Remember the palm of my husband's hand read higher than your wall when our emissivity had been changed without our knowing it. If you know the interior temperature of your house with no fire burning, test the wall and see how close or far you are to see if the IR gun is reading in the ballpark. If you know you're at 70 in the house, and it reads 87 just above your thermostat, that gives you some important information.
Great info
I am just learning how to make the gun work, and I have no idea if it is even accurate. I don't know if I want a heat shield yet. Really, the only thing I am sure about is I want to feel and be safe when using my stove. It has been 3 days now, and I emptied the ashes from the stove this morning. Some of them are still red hot and cooking! The top of my stove is still very warm! So much to learn.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
Great info
That's probably a little too soon for an ash removal. The stove will work best with one to two inches of ash in the bottom of the stove.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Make sure those ashes go in a metal container, and that container is stored on a non combustible surface...so not outside on a wood deck...also needs to be outside the house since unburnt coals can still give off carbon monoxide.
So many fires have occured becuase someone put "cold" (coals buried in ashes can stay alive for days...and they don't neccasarily need to be glowing red to be alive) ashes in a box or a bag and threw them out on the deck...oops.
Or out on the lawn covered with autumn leaves. Set it on a couple of brick or a cement block for peace of mind.
DuaeGuttae
Minister of Fire
I had just read Brenndatomu's post with the excellent reminder to make sure that ashes and coals are outside away from combustibles, and so I didn't at first read the exact excerpt you quoted, Begreen. Because of that skimming on my part, I at first thought you were advising spreading the ashes and coals on the lawn. I knew, of course, that you weren't, but it took me a minute to process it, and I don't want anyone to misunderstand.
Always seal ashes in a metal container and put the container outside on a non-combustible surface. Do not leave it in the house, put it on a wooden front porch or deck, or on a lawn with dry material that can act as tinder. Coals can easily remain hot for days and can easily ignite nearby combustibles.
Well, I had a power outage for about 12 hours on Wednesday so I got a chance to use my stove for its purpose! We have a windy morning this morning too, it may be yet another power outage before the day is done. When I got home Wednesday it was already dark. I didn't notice until I got the fire going that I had creosote over at least 1/2 of my "window"! It must have been from that 3rd burn when I tried to make the fire go out. It is really ugly and thick and I am not sure how to get it off? I tried wiping it with a wet paper towel but that was ineffective. Any ideas on how to make my window shiny and see through again?
Also, thank you so much for letting me know about the ashes. I had really no idea that they would still be cooking like that!
Also, thank you so much for letting me know about the ashes. I had really no idea that they would still be cooking like that!
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
That's the thing that bites people...they aren't usually that hot (or you just don't notice that hot coal) but every once in a while it happens...
I just tried your idea, it wouldn't get the real baked on thick stuff, so I grabbed a sponge that has the soft side/tough side and dipped it in the ashes. It got most of it! Some of it is really on there but at least it gives me a viewing area.
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