I have a problem with my chimney, not sure what to do.

[bobdog2o02]

I have been experiencing some kind of leakage from my duravent chimney down to my stove, i'm not sure if its that i should install a different cap or if the roof flashing is a problem. It appears to be coming down the actual flue, as in the center part of the class A. Here are a bunch of photos where you can see the streaking on the stove pipe. What do you guys think?

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[NRGarrott]

I think you have a problem with your computer also. I don't see any pictures.

 

[Hatrackr]

I would look at the flashing I'm not a chimney expert but all the flashings on my roof have the top side tucked under the shingles then caulked on the sides and bottom it looks as though the top on yours is on top of the shingles

 

[Heatsource]

some Interior pipe sections are upside down!
needs to be crimp down so condensation and soot stays in the pipe.


the flashing does appear to be glued ontop of the shingles as well

 

[NRGarrott]

I would look at the flashing I'm not a chimney expert but all the flashings on my roof have the top side tucked under the shingles then caulked on the sides and bottom it looks as though the top on yours is on top of the shingles

I am a roofer. I can't tell anything from the picture, but yes with flashing the top is installed under a course of shingles, and the bottom is left free. Around here no one caulks the sides or bottom. This traps water inside, and rain doesn't flow uproof so it's not necessary.

 

[bobdog2o02]

some Interior pipe sections are upside down!
needs to be crimp down so condensation and soot stays in the pipe.


the flashing does appear to be glued ontop of the shingles as well

The Flashing is tucked under the upper layer of shingles and the sealant on the sides is what came out from underneath, i put a good sized bead at the edge and what you see is what oozed out.

With the stovepipe, i recently installed this and during the switch out from the old stove the piece that came with the duravent kit was damaged. i called the dealer and they said it was ok to just stick the stove pipe into the support box piece. Is this legit or should i be finding a different solution. i wanted some type of telescoping stove pipe to make disassembly easier for cleaning.....

 

[Heatsource]

typically you want 1/2 of the flashing up under a course or three of the comp, looks like its just under the top row.

looks like the roof/flashing is leaking, and the upside down pipe connections are leaking

 

[bobdog2o02]

leaking and running down the pipe..... bummer. I only notice fresh marks after REALLY strong storms. Thats what led me to believe it was coming in the flue.

 

[bobdog2o02]

most of the marks on the support box are from mopping the floor before making the drywall chase around the pipe.

The black piece in the bottom is the part that got buggered up. Is it necessary or is the dealer right about just sticking the stovepipe up the hole in the support box?

 

[NRGarrott]

How far does the flashing extend under the shingles? It has to be several inches, it just can't have a row of tabs over it. I agree with a1, that is almost certainly your problem.

 

[bholler]

you need the adapter to go from class a to stove pipe then flip the pipe over the flashing doesn't look great either but the pipe is definatly wrong

 

[webby3650]

It is not ok to just shove the pipe up in to the support box. You do need the adaptor. I'm not very familiar with dura-plus, but install dura-tech all the time. I think they use the same adaptor, not sure but you definitely need the adaptor.

 

[Allsixofus]

It is not ok to just shove the pipe up in to the support box. You do need the adaptor. I'm not very familiar with dura-plus, but install dura-tech all the time. I think they use the same adaptor, not sure but you definitely need the adaptor.

The upside of flashing needs to be tucked up beyond the tab cuts on the shingle. Look to see if you can see the top edge of your flashing thru your space between your shingle tabs. If so, and your can't or don't want to shove it beyond wait for a sun to hit it and carefully lift tabs to re seal with top end cement and cross your fingers. Don't know enough about chimney cap to comment on. Good luck. And yes, you shouldn't cement bottom edge.

 

[Allsixofus]

The upside of flashing needs to be tucked up beyond the tab cuts on the shingle. Look to see if you can see the top edge of your flashing thru your space between your shingle tabs. If so, and your can't or don't want to shove it beyond wait for a sun to hit it and carefully lift tabs to re seal with top end cement and cross your fingers. Don't know enough about chimney cap to comment on. Good luck. And yes, you shouldn't cement bottom edge.

Why are those indentations on your base? Has the chimney shifted? If so, you might want check all seams. The odd part is, is coming down your box inside and not just your pipe.

 

[Allsixofus]

Why are those indentations on your base? Has the chimney shifted? If so, you might want check all seams. The odd part is, is coming down your box inside and not just your pipe.

Just read your earlier post about the mopping and cause for box stains. Sorry bout that.

 

[webby3650]

Why are those indentations on your base? Has the chimney shifted? If so, you might want check all seams. The odd part is, is coming down your box inside and not just your pipe.

Not sure why you quoted me above?
The indents are made into dura-vent flashings. It helps hold the pipe steady In the flashing and allows some ventilation.

 

[NRGarrott]

The upside of flashing needs to be tucked up beyond the tab cuts on the shingle. Look to see if you can see the top edge of your flashing thru your space between your shingle tabs. If so, and your can't or don't want to shove it beyond wait for a sun to hit it and carefully lift tabs to re seal with top end cement and cross your fingers. Don't know enough about chimney cap to comment on. Good luck. And yes, you shouldn't cement bottom edge.

A much better solution would be to take another piece of metal, and slide it over the top of the current flashing, and below another course of shingles, lift the tabs of the highest course that covers the metal, and carefully nail there. Then put a dot of roof cement on each tab before lowering it.

 

[webby3650]

Here is the proper solution:
Remove the flashing, and install it properly. Get a dura vent chimney adaptor. Throw that old pipe away. Install double wall stove pipe.
Also caulk the seams on the chimney above the flashing. We have had several dura vent systems leak through the seam.

 

[Hogwildz]

That roof flashing should all be under the shingles with the exception of the bottom. As stated, caulk or sealant is not necessary, and will fail over time.
Also check where the brace legs are mounted to the roof. They should have put sealant under the shingle tab where the screws go through the shingle.