BeGreen said:It's a pricey fellow for a wood furnace with a rain jacket.
laynes69 said:I've seen quite a few that come with flexible insulated ducts for the installation. Never in a million years would I trust a setup like that. We run a woodfurnace, but its indoors. All heat that leaves the furnace itself is in the home and not lost to the outside. There are some positives having them outdoors, but they have alot of things against them also.
heaterman said:Seen a few variations of that design....... About as useless as tits on a boar hog............and that's the nicest thing I can say about the whole idea of installing a forced air system outside.
Think about it. ...... They list an 1800cfm blower. That means you need duct work that is roughly 200sq inches at minimum. Supply and return. Not one but two holes in your house or foundation that are large enough to get a 10 x 20" duct plus insulation so you are talking about something probably 14" x 46"?? Sealing up a hole that size with something rodent proof is not fun or easy to do. And how are you going to insulate it? A couple inches of fiberglass duct wrap isn't going to do it. If you lose only 10* of air temp in your supply run you've lost 18,000 btu's which is realistically 20%+ of the things actual output. They probably send 12" flex duct for installation.........what a joke. One of the units I saw used fiberglass flex duct and after the first winter it was so full of mouse holes that 1/2 the air was leaking outside.
I could go on but you may be able to figure out what I think of these things from what I have posted above. Save your money. Don't be a sucker.
heaterman said:Hey Mill Heat.........seriously, I apologize for being blunt and I'm not trying to put you down, but I really do mean what I said. Look elsewhere and latch onto a different plan. Canuck is absolutely right when he says a product like that wouldn't even be able to be sold much less manufactured in Europe where they take heating seriously. Overall efficiency is right down there on the level of the worst outdoor boilers which is to say around 30% or worse when you account for duct losses.
You would be far better off just putting a little wood stove in your house and letting it do its thing. If you want to go outside you really need to do it with a water based system. You need an 8X18" duct to carry the same amount of heat available in a 1" diameter water line. Forced air systems are so "old school". Going to cost more up front. No two ways about it but at least you'll have something that works and will heat your house.
Mill_Heat said:heaterman said:Hey Mill Heat.........seriously, I apologize for being blunt and I'm not trying to put you down, but I really do mean what I said. Look elsewhere and latch onto a different plan. Canuck is absolutely right when he says a product like that wouldn't even be able to be sold much less manufactured in Europe where they take heating seriously. Overall efficiency is right down there on the level of the worst outdoor boilers which is to say around 30% or worse when you account for duct losses.
You would be far better off just putting a little wood stove in your house and letting it do its thing. If you want to go outside you really need to do it with a water based system. You need an 8X18" duct to carry the same amount of heat available in a 1" diameter water line. Forced air systems are so "old school". Going to cost more up front. No two ways about it but at least you'll have something that works and will heat your house.
Why apologize to me? I'm not purchasing it. I saw it and thought for some people on a budget and can't afford an outdoor boiler, don't want a stove in the house, or have pressurized boiler outside in a shed. Its something out of my area of expertise. So I thought why not and post it. I have 3 stoves throughout my farm house and 2 in my pole barns. Also again since everyone keeps reading this like I'm going to buy it. I'M NOT BUYING THIS.
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