Ignition problem - need some techincal advice...

[fortisi876]

Hello,

I own a Whitfield Advantage Optima3FS and I’m experiencing an ignition problem.

Actually the problem occurred at the end of last winter season. I think I may have contributed to the problem by not cleaning out the ash pan, it was heavily overflowing to the point where it seemed to be caked up/hardened in the ultra grate area.

I cleaned out that mess last season but noticed it wouldnt restart automatically anymore. I dbl checked the fuse attached to the igniter lead and it’s good, what’s the likelihood that I fried the igniter?
Or could there be another issue Im overlooking?

Lastly, can someone be specific on how to test the igniter with a meter before I order a new one?

Thnx!
Frank

 

[mralias]

I'm guessing but the ignitor is nothing more then a coil that heats up. If you have a multi tester, pull out the ignitor and check to see if the circuit is complete. It just may be the ignitor. Sorry, I dont have a Whitfield so I can't really tell you where to start. Im sure the instuctions have a way to trouble shoot and most likely you can get them on line. Good luck.

You can get the manual here....

Make sure you are also getting enough dry pellets in the firepot...Maybe put a few in by hand.

(broken link removed to http://www.stovesandspas.com/Resource) Info/manual_download.htm

 

[mkmh]

I don't have any experience with your stove, but I did have to replace the igniter on my Harman last year. As I understand it, igniters can sometimes wear out slowly, as was the case with mine. It was functioning, but not getting hot enough to ignite the pellets. The recommendations I got which I followed were to check the line voltage first, make sure you are getting enough "juice" from the outlet. Then 2nd, you should place your hand on the burnpot after a failed ignition cycle. If it is not very warm to the touch then your igniter is probably not getting up to temp and probably needs to be replaced.
In my case I picked up a replacement for 75 bucks and I was back up and running pretty quickly.

I'm assuming you tested lighting and running he stove manually, correct? If not, you might want to give that a shot, to rule out pellet quality, air and a few other problems.

 

[fortisi876]

I'm assuming you tested lighting and running he stove manually, correct? If not, you might want to give that a shot, to rule out pellet quality, air and a few other problems.

Yes I did that late last season and it appeared to work fine until it got up to temp then it'd shut itself down. Im learning that some stoves have a continuous burn? I dont think that's the case with mine.

This is gonna be a dumb question..LOL....but Ive never sat down in front of the window to watch how it starts. Exactly how does that igniter operate? I know it glows red but is it pushing out a flame as well, how does the grate get hot enough to ignite the pellets?

 

[Smudge88]

I works like a glow plug...or car cigarette lighter....generates enough heat to light the pellets that accumulate in front of it....does not generate a flame...

 

[fortisi876]

TY for that quick reply...

 

[MButkus]

I buy the fire starter squares... Usually in March when they are on sale.
light it, throw a few pellets on it. 4 min later you have a fire and you are not wasting $140 for a replacement ignitor.
I've only been doing that for 10+ years. So maybe my way is wrong.

 

[Panhandler]

I buy the fire starter squares... Usually in March when they are on sale.
light it, throw a few pellets on it. 4 min later you have a fire and you are not wasting $140 for a replacement ignitor.
I've only been doing that for 10+ years. So maybe my way is wrong.

I rarely use my ignitor much either. It seems the fire starts quicker, less smoke, and I don't get a big pile of pellets all starting at once. Throw in a handful of pellets and fire them up. My ignitor still works, but the replacement is $65. I'm not big on paying for something I think is way overpriced. You can buy a lot of gel or firestarters for that cash.

 

[Souzafone]

On my stove the igniter can become insulated by fines. Is the area around yours cleared?

 

[fortisi876]

I rarely use my ignitor much either.

Am I missing something?
If your stove meets the set room temp, doesnt it shut down til it calls for heat again?

 

[imacman]

Am I missing something?
If your stove meets the set room temp, doesnt it shut down til it calls for heat again?

Some stoves just lower the heat setting and blower, but stay on all the time. Others shut down completely until the call for heat is made by the thermostat.

 

[fortisi876]

Oh ok, well, unfortunately for me I think mine is the latter so Im gonna need a new igniter.

Before I order it tho, Im gonna have to get in there to make sure soot isnt plugging the tube up since it was overflowing before season end.

One more question, has anyone tried using a different make igniter in their stove? Im asking cuz I see some are only $65 where as mine is priced at $125 I wonder if they all operate at the same voltage?

 

[mkmh]

Oh ok, well, unfortunately for me I think mine is the latter so Im gonna need a new igniter.

Before I order it tho, Im gonna have to get in there to make sure soot isnt plugging the tube up since it was overflowing before season end.

One more question, has anyone tried using a different make igniter in their stove? Im asking cuz I see some are only $65 where as mine is priced at $125 I wonder if they all operate at the same voltage?

I don't know much about your specific stove, but I believe there is always a way to set the stove back into a non-thermostat mode. Not sure if you are using an external thermostat (i'm guessing you are), but for you it may be as simple as disconnecting that and going back to just using the 1-5 settings (or whatever you have on the board). You should review the manual or consult a dealer before making any major moves.
(broken link removed to http://www.stovesandspas.com/pdf/advantage.pdf)
As far as using a diff igniter, that is probably a bad idea. Unless you can obtain the part number for it and find an exact match then I would not do it. I suppose there may be instances where one stoves igniter will fit anther stove but this is definitely not a universal part.

 

[fortisi876]

Thnx Mkmh for your input, Im certain you are correct about bypassing the thermostat I think all it takes is putting the jumper back in place but I think Id rather keep the thermostat hooked up.

I finally figured out how to get to the igniter for removal/installation but man it's a pita to get to, a matter a fact, I need to go buy a 5/8" crows foot cuz I cant get in there with any other tool to screw it out. If I snipped the wires off the end I suppose I could just use a socket w/ an extension but I dont want to cut the wires unless I know its bad....with that said.

ANYONE know how to trouble shoot an igniter? Is it supposed to be a closed loop like a bulb? If yes, it's bad cuz Im not getting anything from lead to lead.....a confirmation would be nice tho.



***Ahhh I ordered a new igniter, will advise if it solves the problem.***


I see I never updated my last post..........new igniter did solve the problem, however, that $125 Super DOOPER Igniter didn't even make 3 yrs. ;(