installing new setup through wall. Need the old overhang question advice!

[rippinryno]

Ok, so first off, I'm running the black stove pipe throughout my setup except the through wall which is a class A pipe through a thimble. When maintained, I have no troubles getting the place warm and keeping it warm for days. For long term I've been picking up some chimney pipe as I do have to clean my chimney once or twice a month.

First off, I do not intend to go through the ceiling and roof so let's rule that out immediately, i know it comes recommended, but it won't work for this application, plus I've got a hole in the wall already.

I currently have 2 36" pieces of SS class A chimney and a cap and what looks like a 15 degree elbow. My chimney exits the building at about 6ft up, so it will be very hard to get any support from ground level on the outside. I want to purchase and order the wall support, but it sits so close to the building it will not clear the eve. The setup will be the wall support, 1 section of pipe gets me to the eve, then I am planning to run at least one more section and maybe 2 if it needs it. So, from the inside i go 6ft up, then 90 degree into the through wall, goes 4ft to the outside then another 90 straight up with 2 36" sections. Does anybody know if they make an extended (at least 12 inches) tee support for the outside, as well as the 12+ inch wall supports for the remaining 1 or two SS sections to take me to the top. I've seen the wall supports, but have trouble finding a tee setup. These pipes are menards, i believe supervent is the brand.

I do not want to go through the eve i want to come outside of it. I understand my draft may not be great haveing the 90s, my stove also is a rear exhaust stove, it does not come from the top, so it comes out the back to a 90, then out the wall with a 90, then straight up outside with a 90. CUrrently it runs fine, but i do believe my cold exterior pipe may be causing me draft issues.

What do you guys think, any ideas on an extended tee bracket for the outside that will clear my eve. IF i can't find that I may have to run a slight 30 degree or something to get me around that eve but that might cause issues with support and cleaning.

 

[begreen]

Three 90º turns in the flue path and then a short chimney? That's what is causing the poor performance.

Is black pipe being used currently for chimney outdoors?

What stove is connected to this setup?

 

[rippinryno]

Three 90º turns in the flue path and then a short chimney? That's what is causing the poor performance.

Is black pipe being used currently for chimney outdoors?

What stove is connected to this setup?

Nashua stove. that's correct, 3 90 degree turns as the stove has to make a 90 right out the back of it. The chimney itself runs a total of probably 15 ft, and i would say roughly 8 ft after the last 90. Yup i'm running black stove pipe outside. This is my 2nd season running this setup, i'm planning more long term which is why i've posted here but i want to figure out what is best.

I have ruled out going through the ceiling, but after thinking that i will be forced with 3 90 degrees if i go through the wall, maybe the ceiling is my only option. Problem is, as always the case when people psot this, haha. I dont' want to destroy a brand new metal G rib roof. And, do they make a flashing that will go over that contour on my metal roof?

 

[rippinryno]

If the 90s aren't to much what about running an extended tee support on bottom and then using a regular length support on the side of the eve where my brackets are. then a roof support for the last section. are 3 90s top much? also anybody know where to get an extended tee support base?

 

[bholler]

I personally would go up and out with it but if you insist on going out the wall you will need to make a bracket no one makes a support that long. Also instead of 90s why not angle from the back of the stove up to the wall pass tru.

 

[begreen]

It's good that you are seeking to correct the chimney, but just making it legal by switching out to proper exterior chimney pipe won't fix the primary issues. The do make extendable wall and tee support brackets for the chimney. You'll need to block them out to get past the eave. The chimney also will need a roof support bracket at 5 ft above the roof.

 

[rippinryno]

What do you mean bholler about running an angle from the pipe? You mean coming out the back just run a slant to directly to the through wall class A pipe? then i'll need a 90 there though won't I? basically just ease the angle out of the back of the stove rather than have a full 90? I'm all ears. Also if anybody has any info on a 12-14" tee bracket, please let me know. Once i'm out that far it will be nearly perfect at the eve to put my next bracket in for the piece of pipe on top of the tee, I will plan to mount that direcdtly at the eve which will not require an extended mount. Then I will use a roof mount to shoot up and grab the last piece of chimney.

thanks for the help thus far!

 

[bholler]

You mean coming out the back just run a slant to directly to the through wall class A pipe? then i'll need a 90 there though won't I?

That is what I am saying but it would make it so neither of them would be 90s. It may help a little.

Also if anybody has any info on a 12-14" tee bracket

Olympia makes a 14" bracket.

But again you have to long of a horizontal run and to many elbows. You would be much much better if you ran up and out the roof. We do it all the time it is not a big deal.

 

[rippinryno]

Too long to even work? It can be shortened from current setup since I have it stretched inside so I can have it close to 4ft


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[rippinryno]

I am iffy on getting a flashing to go over the g rib roof and also destroying my new roof lol. Another question would be how to use my menards super vent with an extended tee mount since menards doesn't have one and I doubt super vent makes one


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[bholler]

Too long to even work? It can be shortened from current setup since I have it stretched inside so I can have it close to 4ft

It might work but it would work much better without that long run

I am iffy on getting a flashing to go over the g rib roof and also destroying my new roof lol

We do it all the time there are many options for ribbed metal roofs.

 

[rippinryno]

Let's just say I'm heating with a long run right now and it'll stay lit but leaves some black unhurt wood in the fire when it's done. I'm thinking an
Insulated pipe would help this. What sort of kit or flashing can I use to go over the metal?


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[bholler]

What sort of kit or flashing can I use to go over the metal?

excell makes one olympia makes one. Or you can simply cut any regular flashing into a metal roof just make a slit the width of the flashing at the middle of the hole and slide the flashing up into place. I have done it many times with no issues. Look at it this way to go through the wall you still need to buy the right support brackets and the tee right. All you need to buy to go through the roof is a support box and the flashing. It will cost less and work much better.

 

[rippinryno]

I have to go through the roof and the ceiling....is there a kit for my Selkirk super vent that will make this easier? Also do you know of a Selkirk or super vent extended t bracket support if I do the through wall?


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[bholler]

I have to go through the roof and the ceiling....is there a kit for my Selkirk super vent that will make this easier? Also do you know of a Selkirk or super vent extended t bracket support if I do the through wall?

I dont use selkirk products so I have no idea look up their catalog and see what they have.

 

[rippinryno]

Ok so basically it sounds like I will have to fabricate my tee bracket support.....then I can use the standard hardware for the rest. I assume that they Olympia extended tee support will not work with my Meanrds supervent.


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[rippinryno]

It's good that you are seeking to correct the chimney, but just making it legal by switching out to proper exterior chimney pipe won't fix the primary issues.

I'm not so much concerned about making it legal, it matters none given my circumstances. Legal or not. What i'm focused on are less maintenance and more long term. I could keep heating with the stove pipe used as chimney, but as mentioned to be safe I'm cleaning it out a couple times a month. I've never seen more than a 1/4" build up and rarely do i get much to even clean out, but it's peace of mind. if i can avoid this and possibly get a better draw through the flu just by puttnig insulated chimney pipe up, I think it's worth it. I 've been patient and finally found the 3 pieces that I have for $60, they're like new condition. So my purchase cost will be the tee, and a few supports, i am wondering if I can by a supervent tee support and then install it on angle iron extensions from the building. I can get the stuff from menards with holes already in it and tehn just build the bracket and set the supervent bracket on the end of it. Then i'll use a standard bracket at the eve since it will run close to that. and 1 roof support at the top. This should be much more permanent, but still easy to maintain.

 

[cjgoode]

I talked extensively with one of the experts ate woodland direct over this exact issue. He confirmed my plans is fine but did say I need to extend my top pipe by 1 foott, so I am extending it 3. He said do not try and do more then 2 90 degrees in the pipe.

So I am going up with stove pipe 6 feet, 90 degrees and 18 inches to the through wall thimbal. Then instead of using the 12 inch triple wall pipe to the T that came with the kit, I am using a 3 foot section to make sure I clear my eve, then straight up 9 feet with triple wall pipe. According to them my stove needs 12 feet of rise from the stove to chimney cap, I will end up with 15. The 9 feet after the T should give me enough draft to help overcome the impact of the two 90 degree turns for best draft.

I have a covered porch, just a tin roof I have to go through, I too will have to do a custom wall mount an also support down from the porch roof joists, then box it all in and make it pretty for the wife.

I have spent 4 years trying to make this happen, I finally found my exact stove on CL (shocking since I live in FL) for a fraction of the cost new and have accumulated all the pipes to do the install. I went with duraVent chimney pipe. Homedepot had the 36 inch pipe, the one that said galvanized exterior and SS inside was $140 but the one that does not say SS but has the SS part number was $79 (I think it is $89 now). So I ordered them and the all SS ones showed up, a year later when I realized I needed one more, still was $79. I just ordered their duravent stove pipe to finish my supplies, their cost was about 2/3 to 1/2 the price of anywhere else I could find for the identical product and part numbers. Hopefully I can get up to the cabin over Christmas and cut my hole in the wall and start installing the pipe !!

 

[rippinryno]

I'm thinking somethingl ike this http://www.kitchensource.com/supports-brackets/ha-287.55.361.htm?p=HA-287.55.364

not sure if it would be easier to then get the supervent tee bracket or jsut get the bottom plate adapter thing from supervent then i can install that onto this existing bracket.

 

[begreen]

If you don't mind bringing the stove a bit more into the room, connect the stove with 45's like this. This will help draft by eliminating one 90º turn.

 

[rippinryno]

I am now going back and forth on whether i should jsut go through the ceiling. Does anybody have a good step by step as to how i would get my chimney flashing into the existing metal roof? bholler you mentioned running a slight and sliding it in. I can visualise this, but it's easier to understand with a standard shingle roof. I'm thinking the only way to do this is to plug or put a fan in my through wall hole that i've made and go through the roof, but i'm nervous about how to get that flashing installed nicely. Any photos or instructions on getting that flashing into the roof?

 

[begreen]

Excel makes a special flashing for metal roofing. This can be used with other chimney as long as the diameter is the same. It gets notched to match the seams of the metal roof. In this picture they slipped the top edge under the ridge cap. Otherwise a slit is made in the metal roof and the flashing is slipped into this slit. The picture below does not show the storm collar which would sit on top of the flashing.

 

[rippinryno]

Thanks for that explanation. I'm planning to get a kit with the whole ceiling box and roof box. Between the ceiling and roof is very close since this is only feet from the outside wall. Should I get a kit then buy this flashing seperate or what do you think?


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[rippinryno]

What about this?


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[rippinryno]

Well I'm going to be doing this install finally in the next month or so. I ordered a duravent ceiling kit which has the roof flashing as well.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent...himney-Stove-Pipe-Vent-Kit-6DP-KBSC/100115151
It looks like I will be going through my ceiling in the garage which is actually just OSB board with joists running through, i can build supports as needed. The ceiling area is is toward a wall in the garage so once I get through the ceiling I only have about 1ft before i will hit my roof. From there I will plan to go through the roof and out. Will likely only be 2 sections of chimney pipe needed to get me up and out with about 4ft sticking above the roof.

For the guys who do these installs, what is the best method for roughing it in. Do you start from inside the building and make your first cut into the ceiling working your way up, or do you start from on top of the roof and then cut your way down. I just want to make sure I have everything squared up and lined up perfect so I wanted to check with the pro's to see which series of install will work best for me. I assume the ceiling box will have the chimney pipe spaced from my OSB and good distance, but do wonder about the pipe going through the roof, i assume there is a ring or somethign to make it stay 2" from the structure.

Last thing, the flashing looks to be a decent pitch, and it says it's adjustable, i'm going to be putting this into my metal roof and it does have a rather mild pitch to it. I think this will work, however, doy ou guys think ultimately that I can use this flashign in the kit and cut slits in the roof as suggested before?

TIA.