Interesting thing I learned at lowes
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Tom123
Burning Hunk
I would guess full synthetic. Even so you still get byproducts of combustion and other contaminants including metal from break in in the oil.
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They want you to trash the engine....then go buy another.
Perhaps it burns so much oil from the get go so that adding oil=changing oil.
The engineers have calculated how much it needs to leak on the ground per month to equate to a yearly oil change.
Thats nothing new to me..lol..thats how I treated all old briggs engines!
I guess they don't plan on it lasting long.i still don't see how that can be good in an engine. It's about as dumb as when small engine companies got rid of drain plugs and you have to flip the little engines over to drain the oil out of them. I guess I'm stuck in my old school ways.
It's stupid. I'm an oil and lubricant nerd, and fastidious with maintenance.
With best break in methods, quality oil and maintenance, those motors will usually last through 3 pumps on those little pressure washers.
If you want a smokey, oil burning POS, then by all means, don't ever change the oil.
With best break in methods, quality oil and maintenance, those motors will usually last through 3 pumps on those little pressure washers.
If you want a smokey, oil burning POS, then by all means, don't ever change the oil.
Got a power washer like that....looked all over for that damn plug...
It has a Honda engine on it so I am going to run Honda full synthetic in it...that will run me all season easily.
VirginiaIron
Minister of Fire
If you take into consideration the job of oil it is supposed to get in-between every moving part to reduce or prevent friction. If the oil is doing its job and getting between the compression rings and the oil rings then very small amounts re going to be left over and burned, ultimately reducing the oil level in the crankcase. In the past, some manuals considered it normal for an engine to use a quart of oil every thousand miles. Without obvious contamination present, the only way to determine if the oil is shot is through analysis. Many people change their oil long before it has failed. Maybe, the manufacturer's have added new technology that reduces acids, moisture, and wear.
In today's eco-friendly world it makes perfect sense. I'd like to know what life cycle has been determined for the product.
In today's eco-friendly world it makes perfect sense. I'd like to know what life cycle has been determined for the product.
VirginiaIron
Minister of Fire
Lol... I would be leary of purchasing it, especially the first or second year productions. This might end up going the way of the horror stories associated with some new products or oil based technologies.
VirginiaIron
Minister of Fire
Retired Guy
Minister of Fire
I had a 1980 Buick that I used full synthetic in after the first oil change and didn't change the oil - just changed the filter every 3,000 miles. Had 80,000 when I traded it.
FWIW, here's what B&S has to say about it:
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/campaigns/just-check-and-add.html
Excerpt:
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/campaigns/just-check-and-add.html
Excerpt:
I wasn't really looking at purchasing a pressure washer as I already have a Yamaha pressure washer. I was waiting on them to track down my a/c unit for my shop. I was just killing a little time and seen that.
I found what looked like a pretty new lawn mower at a thrift store for $25 - why I wondered? It has a B & S and has front powered wheels. Ok I decided, I'll buy it and see what is up. I cleaned the carb, and it started up, but ran really weird - high and low. I checked the oil and it was way over the max mark. I looked for the bolt/plug and there wasn't one. Now I know what happened.
The buyer of the lawn mower dumped the whole quart of oil that it came with into the engine - which overfilled it. Maybe they tried to drain it but couldn't find the plug. Who knows? Anyways, I just took the cap off and tipped the mower on its' side. I was surprised how much oil I had to dump out. It ran fine after this.
You run enough engines, you can see and smell when the oil is contaminated and thinning down.
I'd use a liquivac fluid changer on that thing after it's broken in, and when it needs changing. Oil's cheap enough, and you can do an oil change in under 10 minutes.
That's planned obsolescence from B & S right there. Guaranteed.
I'd use a liquivac fluid changer on that thing after it's broken in, and when it needs changing. Oil's cheap enough, and you can do an oil change in under 10 minutes.
That's planned obsolescence from B & S right there. Guaranteed.
My son learned about low oil shutdown when I taught him how to do donuts in his go kart! It doesn’t like doing them to the right, if I recall correctly.
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there are occasions when these due fail or are bad out of the box- indication hard starting/ finally starts runs a bit shuts down- the usual bad carb symptoms, which of course leads you down the wrong road.
Pretty comical considering it takes 10 minutes and maybe $5 to change the oil on these (and thats with synthetic). Plus you only have to change it once a year, or maybe every other year depending on use.
Exactly. People trusting on the manufacturer's recommendations is a mistake often times with oil and lubes.
There's better lubricants and intervals than what they try to promote, and in this case, they should be ashamed of themselves for saying it's good for "life."
