Interior sliding barn door

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TheIndian

Member
Jan 11, 2018
126
Long Island
Howdie,
Will be making an interior barn door that slides on a track mounted above it on the wall...you’ve all seen them.
Have been having some trouble finding the hardware...or at least I think I’m having trouble. Would like quality hardware but wasn’t expecting some of the prices I’ve seen online...$300-$400? This would include everything but the door...track, rollers, mounts, nuts, bolts, etc... That sounds kinda high but then again I’ve never purchased it before. Snug Cottage makes great stuff but it for much larger doors for a real barn.
Would love to know where you’ve bought or would buy from.
Thx
Chris
 
Check the Big Box stores. Lowes, Menards, Home Depot. I know when I looked on-line I found the same. I found something I could use for around $100 at a Box store.
 
A general observation, I dont know if its just cheap homeowners/installers but I find that most installs end up having the track be woefully under supported. Spend a couple of extra bucks and put in few extra hanger clamps.
 
Thanks guy!
Will consider all your input. Sliding barn door on hold right now...looking to get stove installed asap. Have 5 inches of snow on ground right now. That’ll be the fourth snowstorm I missed since I bought the stove :( LOL
 
Hey Indian. stumbled upon this thread. About to demo and re build my master bedroom and the wife would life a barn door on the bathroom. What kind of wood are you using for the project? I'm thinking of just using some pine as we would most likely use a fairly dark stain. I haven't done a whole lot of research on them yet.
 
Hey Indian. stumbled upon this thread. About to demo and re build my master bedroom and the wife would life a barn door on the bathroom. What kind of wood are you using for the project? I'm thinking of just using some pine as we would most likely use a fairly dark stain. I haven't done a whole lot of research on them yet.

Having owned several barns with sliding doors over the years, I foresee two potential issues:

1. The height/width ratio of an interior door may not work so well with traditional gravity-locked roller hardware. I would expect the leading roller may lift off the track, when the door is slid by pushing on the aft edge of the door, as one is likely to do. Normal rolling barn doors are at least as wide as they are tall, and standard barn door hardware relies on this to work properly, but there may be kits designed for this faux application that resolve this issue.

2. They’re a PITA to actually open and close, when compared to the dozen times a day you may open and close a bathroom door. The small size and weight of an interior door will reduce the effort, but it’s still no where near as convenient as a swinging door.
 
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Howdie,
Will be making an interior barn door that slides on a track mounted above it on the wall...you’ve all seen them.
Have been having some trouble finding the hardware...or at least I think I’m having trouble. Would like quality hardware but wasn’t expecting some of the prices I’ve seen online...$300-$400? This would include everything but the door...track, rollers, mounts, nuts, bolts, etc... That sounds kinda high but then again I’ve never purchased it before. Snug Cottage makes great stuff but it for much larger doors for a real barn.
Would love to know where you’ve bought or would buy from.
Thx
Chris


Use this one from HD.

(broken link removed)

It can be bought in the store. It is unfinished and comes with all the hardware. I have hung two of them stained in a cherry finish and they look amazing.

Plus it has 213 5-star reviews...we cant all be wrong!
 
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Having owned several barns with sliding doors over the years, I foresee two potential issues:

1. The height/width ratio of an interior door may not work so well with traditional gravity-locked roller hardware. I would expect the leading roller may lift off the track, when the door is slid by pushing on the aft edge of the door, as one is likely to do. Normal rolling barn doors are at least as wide as they are tall, and standard barn door hardware relies on this to work properly, but there may be kits designed for this faux application that resolve this issue.

2. They’re a PITA to actually open and close, when compared to the dozen times a day you may open and close a bathroom door. The small size and weight of an interior door will reduce the effort, but it’s still no where near as convenient as a swinging door.

Interesting. I see how that could cause a problem. I would think by adding some weight to the bottom it could help balance it out. This will primarily be used by my wife and I only. Not even sure it will be getting closed during showers all the time as the bedroom has a swinging down. The bathroom however can be seen from walking by into the living room which will catch peoples eye. I can't justify spending $450 plus for a door already built that I still need to finish myself.
 
Hey Indian. stumbled upon this thread. About to demo and re build my master bedroom and the wife would life a barn door on the bathroom. What kind of wood are you using for the project? I'm thinking of just using some pine as we would most likely use a fairly dark stain. I haven't done a whole lot of research on them yet.
Hey Shorty,
Yes I expect to use pine. I made these doors for my shed and they came out ok. I used planks of pine over plywood and then added the trim.
I agree with Ashful as well...I expect to add weight to the bottom of the door to help keep it on track...guessing the door should be rather heavy.
My other issue is the door I plan on making needs to be rather narrow due to the space I have available...30inches wide maybe. Like Ashful implied...the narrower the door, the less likely it is to work well.
I’ll figure something out...I hope ;)
 

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Use this one from HD.

(broken link removed)

It can be bought in the store. It is unfinished and comes with all the hardware. I have hung two of them stained in a cherry finish and they look amazing.

Plus it has 213 5-star reviews...we cant all be wrong!
Nice looking door Z33...will check it out.
 
Hey Shorty,
Yes I expect to use pine. I made these doors for my shed and they came out ok. I used planks of pine over plywood and then added the trim.
I agree with Ashful as well...I expect to add weight to the bottom of the door to help keep it on track...guessing the door should be rather heavy.
My other issue is the door I plan on making needs to be rather narrow due to the space I have available...30inches wide maybe. Like Ashful implied...the narrower the door, the less likely it is to work well.
I’ll figure something out...I hope ;)

Did you use a jointer then biscuit or pocket the planks? looks like there is some cap between them, or is that what you were going for. Either way they look pretty awesome shed doors
 
I havent used it but hear very good things about Cambia wood which is thermally processed wood. It has a harder finish and far less resistant to swelling. http://cambiawood.com/
 
Did you use a jointer then biscuit or pocket the planks? looks like there is some cap between them, or is that what you were going for. Either way they look pretty awesome shed doors


I'd use tongue and groove. The gap could come and go as the wood moves with seasonal humidity. Depending on the species of wood you choose, how it is sawn, and how its secured, you might see enough wood movement to cause splitting. Traditionally, this is the reason for frame and panel design.
 
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Did you use a jointer then biscuit or pocket the planks? looks like there is some cap between them, or is that what you were going for. Either way they look pretty awesome shed doors

Wow. I’ve owned a dozen barns, and not one of them had a jointed and biscuit joined door. Barn doors are shiplapped and cleated, with wrought nails bent over behind the cleats, or some newer facsimile thereof.
 
Did you use a jointer then biscuit or pocket the planks? looks like there is some cap between them, or is that what you were going for. Either way they look pretty awesome shed doors
No jointer. Just slapped ‘em on the plywood. Actually I screwed the plywood into the planks from the inner-side of the door. I made sure the screw length was long enough to grab planks but short enough of course not to come through the planks.