Is this big damage?

[Ctwoodtick]

Just looking for some gut feeling opinions on this one. Completely by accident I noticed a floor joist in my basement that holds up the first floor. I had a very good size crack in it. The more I look at it the more I’m wondering if it could be because of any bug issue. Knowing that there’s a lot of collective knowledge on this site I wanted to put up some pictures and see what you all thought. Thank you in advance.!

 

[Ctwoodtick]

I should’ve mentioned above that I’m not noticing any sawdust or that sort of thing Hindi area or on top of the drop ceiling panel that was directly below it.

 

[Dieselhead]

The knot is the cause of the crack, that should have been cast aside during framing. I’d “sister” another same size board along side of it end to end.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

The knot is the cause of the crack, that should have been cast aside during framing. I’d “sister” another same size board along side of it end to

Thank you. I figured the knot had something to do with it. I was hoping to sister it myself but the joist has wiring running though it so I will have to hire someone to do this for me. Thank you again

 

[John Galt]

Knots are basically considered holes in structural framing when grading the lumber.

 

[Ricks]

You maybe able to strengthen that beam with quarter inch angle iron. Any good metal fabrication shop should be able to get that for you. They will even drill holes for you.

The right size angle iron will be stronger than the beam. What isn’t clear in your picture is where the electrical line is and how it would affect placement of the angle iron.

 

[bigealta]

That is a huge knot, as said above no way that should have been installed.

Sistering is the cheapest easiest way if you can pull the wire from one side if it ties into a junction box or outlet not to far away.
Of course you would have to be comfortable working with electrical connections.

 

[Whitenuckler]

I don't see the electrical within a few feet of the knot. I would just sister a 3 ft piece on both sides with smaller size. Get some long bolts and go through all 3 after jacking up the crack area.

 

[bigealta]

I'd do the above too.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Here are a couple more pics of the area. The trouble electric that goes through the joist is a good 7 feet away so not an issue. The Romex going along the joist seems to have a bit of slack so I may be able to move that to put in sister pieces. Same with the PEX lines. The idea of an angle iron sounds better to me because I would guess it would be easier to fit with the nearby drainpipes.
On the on the side of the crack opposite of the drainpipes I have about 30 inches before the outside wall sill.
On a funny note, I called a guy to give me a quote on fixing the crack. He asked that I send him pictures of the crack. He commented that it was clearly not a moisture issue, causing the problem. He then tried to transition to talking about how he could look for ice dams on my roof while he was there. I asked him “why exactly are we talking about ice dams”? and it just got worse. I decided pretty quickly that this would not be the fella that I’d have messing around with electrical stuff in my basement, lol.

 

[Whitenuckler]

Here are a couple more pics of the area. The trouble electric that goes through the joist is a good 7 feet away so not an issue. The Romex going along the joist seems to have a bit of slack so I may be able to move that to put in sister pieces. Same with the PEX lines. The idea of an angle iron sounds better to me because I would guess it would be easier to fit with the nearby drainpipes.
On the on the side of the crack opposite of the drainpipes I have about 30 inches before the outside wall sill.
On a funny note, I called a guy to give me a quote on fixing the crack. He asked that I send him pictures of the crack. He commented that it was clearly not a moisture issue, causing the problem. He then tried to transition to talking about how he could look for ice dams on my roof while he was there. I asked him “why exactly are we talking about ice dams”? and it just got worse. I decided pretty quickly that this would not be the fella that I’d have messing around with electrical stuff in my basement, lol.

I would not use angle iron, as it's too small unless you use 4 inch. Much harder to work with. If your joists are 2 x12, I'd get an an 8ft piece of 2 x 10, or whatever the next size down is. Then 2 bolts on either side, all the way through.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

I would not use angle iron, as it's too small unless you use 4 inch. Much harder to work with. If your joists are 2 x12, I'd get an an 8ft piece of 2 x 10, or whatever the next size down is. Then 2 bolts on either side, all the way through.

ok thanks for that advice. I just took another look and that waste pipe is going to be in the way. It’s only about 2 feet from one side of the crack. On the other side I have about 30 inches to work with. Would this be enough length for sistered boards (about 54 inches total)?
My joists are 2x7.

 

[Whitenuckler]

ok thanks for that advice. I just took another look and that waste pipe is going to be in the way. It’s only about 2 feet from one side of the crack. On the other side I have about 30 inches to work with. Would this be enough length for sistered boards (about 54 inches total)?
My joists are 2x7.

I went and measured mine, built in the 70's, and I have the same on 16 inch centers. They would be 2 x 8's. For sure 30 inch on either side is Ok. A 2 x 6 would be good.

 

[brenndatomu]

I've fixed cracks like that before...I glued n screwed sisters on both sides...used some sort of real heavy screws with large pan heads too...spendy.

 

[Max W]

Use construction adhesive on the paired sister pieces, one on each side and screw it with construction grade screws or construction lag screws. Two feet should be fine but go longer if you can on the other side of the joist where plumbing doesn’t look to be in the way. My preference for the sisters would be 3/4 inch ply, cut along the grain. If I had 1/2 ply (5 ply ) in on hand I would use it . Plywood also would give more room for the romex and might fit past the drain plumbing.

 

[stoveliker]

Put a straight edge across the bottom of the joist first to see if you have sag.
If so, I'd first jack the sag out of it before I would sister up the joist.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Thanks again everyone for the help. I’ll be out of town for a few days but will report back next week when I can get back to it.

 

[Murray01]

Do you have any carpenter friends that could be hired to consult? I’d be curious to know if the surrounding floor joists have been affected by the cracked one. Is your floor above the crack sagging?

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Do you have any carpenter friends that could be hired to consult? I’d be curious to know if the surrounding floor joists have been affected by the cracked one. Is your floor above the crack sagging?

Thanks, that’s a good thought. I haven’t noticed obvious sagging but I will check more thoroughly soon. I’m going to have to ask my neighbors for a carpentry recommendation. I don’t know anyone offhand

 

[Murray01]

Locate the cracked joist on the floor above and lay a straight edge over the area perpendicular to the joist. Check other areas away from the cracked joist to get a baseline on the floor in general. IF the floor has sagged due to the joist you should be able to see it with the straight edge.

 

[Ahoragi]

Out of curiosity, what is upstairs above that section that is damaged?

 

[bigealta]

Or just run a string line under the bottom of the joists. You can run across the bottom of a few joists on both sides of the cracked one. And also just on the length of the bottom of the cracked joist.

Or even just take your 4 ft level or other straight edge and put it on the bottom of the cracked joist.
Even a straight broom handle can work as a straight edge if you don't have any other options.

I kind of doubt there is much sagging. If there is just little to no sagging then the goal is to just stabilize the crack with the sister materials.

 

[bigealta]

If you need to jack up the joist just a bit (maybe (1/2 - 1 inch) then u can just screw a 2x4 block (maybe 18"-24") on the flat under the crack with another on the floor, and then angle a 2x4 or double 2x4 or 4x4 "post" under the 2x4 on the crack.
The post should be just a bit longer that the length of the space between the 2x4 on the floor and the one under the crack.
Then hammer the angled "post " at the bottom to slowly lift the cracked joist.

The flat 2x4 screwed to the bottom of the joist will also be a guide to line up the sister material you use whether it's 2x6, 2x8, or plywood.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Out of curiosity, what is upstairs above that section that is damaged?

The best I can tell right now, it is in the kitchen about where the front of the dishwasher sits. I have to look at everything a bit more to be sure of that though

 

[Ricks]

the metal shops near me can cut a four inch piece of angle iron a quarter of an inch thick. The shops would cut it to length as well as drill holes to fasten it to your beam. The trickiest piece would be holding the angle iron in once while you lag screw it into place.

The reason for the angle iron is your pex will have enough flex to allow the angle iron to slide into place.