Isolation flange leak

[James Ascherl]

So I started air testing my system and other than a few minor pin hole leaks, I noticed that my one isolation pump flange hisses when I open or close it. It is leaking out of the stem. Does anyone know if I need to tighten the nut under the handle or on top? I am thinking the top one just holds the handle on. I just don't want to damage it. They cost almost as much as the pump.

Also, anyone have recommendations as to what I should air test it at? I was thinking 40psi or at the most 50psi. I know air is sneakier then water.

 

[kopeck]

Do they having packing nuts? I know some (if not all) of my ball valves have them. My Webstone had to be snugged up a bit.

Look behind the handle, if there's a nut there see if that fixes your problems. You will probably have to remove the handle.

K

 

[woodsmaster]

I had a leak like yours, I tightened the nut up a little and it quit. I pressure checked mine to 60 PSI. Some guys seem to think that was to much, but I'd rather know if I have a weak spot before there is 190 degree water in it. Didn't have anything blow out, but I
did find a couple leaks.

 

[peakbagger]

Ball valves usually have two nuts, the one that holds the handle on and the packing nut underneath. If its a new valve, you just snug up the nut under the handle while turning the handle. Note there are a lot of chinese junk ball valves that have really poor construction and the packing nuts sometimes strip. Pex Supply sold me a 6 pack of ball valves for my heating system and every one had packing leaks and the packing nuts appear to be stripping. They are soldered in so I am just hoping I dont need to snug them up much.

On older valves, I have been very succesfull replacing the packing with teflon pipe tape by twisting it up into a cord and wrapping it around the stem after the nut is loosened. Teflon rope packing is better but I dont keep it in stock.