Jøtul Oslo.....corner install

[goofa]

Just as the title suggests. Does anyone have an Oslo installed in a corner application. And the side door must be locked.... . This is kind of a thorn in the side for me I am turning my attached 2 car garage into a mud room and new family room and a corner hearth is the focus of the room. I currently have a castine that is waiting to be installed there but I really have my heart set on an Oslo... as I think it would be a much better heat source for my soon to be 1700square ft ranch. I really liked the side load option and don't want to be stuck using the front door as my in-laws have an Oslo and use only the side door. Any suggestions..

 

[begreen]

I considered the the Oslo but ran into the same dilemma for our stove. Try for another location or another stove? For us the T6 has turned into a perfect fit.

 

[webby3650]

Mine is in the very same set up as yours. I do not and will not have the side door locked. I've got 5" thick stone on the walls and a concrete floor. It sits out pretty far and I see absolutely no reason to lock the door if it sits out a little and you have plenty of hearth. The side door kinda makes this stove in my opinion!

 

[goofa]

Moving the location of the hearth is unfortunately not an option. My walls are steel studded and will be covered with a cement board and then stone veneer. My raised hearth itself will be 5 ft deep along the walls and from corner to front edge will be roughly 5'8" so Idk if forgoing the manufacturer s specs is warranted. Any how your setup is beautiful webby

 

[goofa]

This is the location of the hearth as you can see the poor castine in the bottom corner cover in the green sheet.

 

[begreen]

With this degree of protection it probably will be ok if you can move the stove out far enough so that there is reasonable side access. You don't want to be cramped loading a hot stove. If you want to be extra safe, put a vent at the top and bottom of the steel studded walls.

 

[Simonkenton]

webby that is a beautiful stove and a beautiful install. I love those rocks.
And that is exactly how I am going to install an Oslo in my new log cabin addition next year.
Now, my stove is going into the corner of a log cabin. By the time the stove is far enough away from combustibles to meet spec, I will be able to use the side door.

 

[webby3650]

webby that is a beautiful stove and a beautiful install. I love those rocks.
And that is exactly how I am going to install an Oslo in my new log cabin addition next year.
Now, my stove is going into the corner of a log cabin. By the time the stove is far enough away from combustibles to meet spec, I will be able to use the side door.

Thanks! The stones were existing when we bought the place. Everything else is new, except the chimney. I hate that its not centered in the corner, but its a hip roof. The chimney was installed right beside the hip rafter. Ohh well!

 

[goofa]

I was looking at the clearances for the quad Cumberland gap stove and it shows one dimension for the left side and then a different for the right side which is the wood loading side. Taking this in consideration if I use this larger dimension ( wood loading side) from the quad and place the Oslo for both corners to match this larger dimension I don't see why it's not ok....

 

[goofa]

These are the quad specs

 

[goofa]

So as for building the raised hearth it's self this is my intention. Build the frame out of 2x6 and cap it with advantec sub floor plywood. On top of that use steel 2x4 on edge like another floor joist system with the studs @ 1' on center. Insulate with unfaced fiberglass bats in between the steel joists bays. Then cap that with 1 or 2 layers of cement board then whatever I want for finished look either ceramic tile or a stone of sorts or possibly an exposed aggregate concrete slab. Does this seem to be over kill ,or not enough or just fine?

 

[webby3650]

So as for building the raised hearth it's self this is my intention. Build the frame out of 2x6 and cap it with advantec sub floor plywood. On top of that use steel 2x4 on edge like another floor joist system with the studs @ 1' on center. Insulate with unfaced fiberglass bats in between the steel joists bays. Then cap that with 1 or 2 layers of cement board then whatever I want for finished look either ceramic tile or a stone of sorts or possibly an exposed aggregate concrete slab. Does this seem to be over kill ,or not enough or just fine?

Way over kill! All that is required is ember protection. So just put a layer of backer board on that advantech and then tile or stone.

 

[goofa]

But what if I want to put a different stove there in the future. I'd rather not live by my motto... we do it nice cuz we do it twice.... lol I have all the materials on hand so cost is not problem. I just want to be prepared for whatever stove may find its way to that hearth.

 

[goofa]

Also let me ask this.... These "clearances" are all to combustible materials and I have steel studded walls so therefore the clearances don't apply? Just whatever works to operate the stove safely and is centered on the hearth?

 

[webby3650]

Also let me ask this.... These "clearances" are all to combustible materials and I have steel studded walls so therefore the clearances don't apply? Just whatever works to operate the stove safely and is centered on the hearth?

You will find a different answer depending on who you ask.
"Clearance to combustibles" means just that. The nearest combustible material. Some say its to the surface nearest the stove since its attached to the combustible material. That just makes no practical sense to me.

 

[goofa]

Well the surface nearest the stove would be stone... non combustible....then cement board .... non combustible.....then steel studs.....non combustible so Idk where you would measure to trying to be on the safe side for peace of mind.

 

[webby3650]

Just take the measurements.

 

[goofa]

And as you do forget locking the side door correct. Do you know by chance what you have for measurements on your stove webby ?

 

[webby3650]

And as you do forget locking the side door correct. Do you know by chance what you have for measurements on your stove webby ?

It's 19" from the stone to the corner of the stovetop.

 

[goofa]

Ok cool thank you.

 

[xman23]

I read that years after I did mine. I have idea what could be the issue. Mine works perfect and has for 13 years. I have enough room to swing the door open past the wall and around the back of the stove. Plenty of room to load up to 26" splits. I have rear stove shield so the stove is back as far as I could get it. I think I emailed them and I never got a response.

 

[Creekheat]

Mine is in the very same set up as yours. I do not and will not have the side door locked. I've got 5" thick stone on the walls and a concrete floor. It sits out pretty far and I see absolutely no reason to lock the door if it sits out a little and you have plenty of hearth. The side door kinda makes this stove in my opinion!

That looks awesomer.

 

[Simonkenton]

Here is another solution for you. I have used this on two wood stove installs that I did, on log houses that I built. Make a free standing copper heat shield.
You buy a five foot sheet of copper three feet high, and you bend it, say make it 3 feet straight in the back, then at about a 45 degree angle, you bend it in on the left and right sides. So the copper sheet is in somewhat of a horseshoe configuration. You set it behind the wood stove, perhaps 3 or 4 inches from the stove. Air can easily circulate behind it.

Nobody uses copper for heat shields because it is expensive. I can tell you that copper will reflect almost all of the heat that strikes it.
So, your copper heat shield will block the left hand door. You can, believe it or not, pick up the copper heat shield with bare hands and it will not be hot, even with the stove at 600 degrees! I have done it many times. Move the heat shield, load the wood, and put the heat shield back.

When I bought the copper sheet it was bright and shiny. By the time I had handled it and cut the corners round, to make it look good, it was all scuffed up. I decided to scuff it good, and I hammered it. I set it down on a big timber, and hammered every square inch of it with the round end of a ball peen hammer. Took about an hour. Man, that thing looked great.

I am going to install a Jotul Oslo in the log cabin I will build next year, and will make a hammered free standing copper heat shield for it.