Jotul 118B install advice

[BlackBetty06]

hey guys, I have a jotul 118B mfg Feb 1980. Believe it or not it’s essentially brand new. Was used the winter of 1980 and never again. I want to put this stove in my living room which has no hearth. I will have to run the chimney through the ceiling up through the attic and out the roof next to another chimney for the oil burner. I am going to get an insulated steel chimney and chimney support box for that part. Was thinking Metal Fab? What I am trying to figure out is what I need to do inside so I don’t burn my house down. I am thinking of cutting the drywall away packing the wall with Roxul. Then putting two layers of cement board on that, and then a stone or imitation stone on that. For the floor, I am going to get a pre manufactured piece to set on top of the hard wood. As far as I am aware there are no heat shields for the OLD 118B. Is that correct? I am going to try for a corner install so I will have to do two walls. I was thinking going 3 feet up. Does this sound adequate or am I missing something?

 

[begreen]

You are very lucky to find one in such great condition. This is a good heater. The first thing to do is read the manual. That will cover the installation, hearth and clearance requirements. If you need to reduce the clearances, that can be done, to a maximum reduction of 12" with a proper NFPA 211 wall shield. You do not need to remove the drywall or packing the walls with Roxul insulation. That actually will not gain anything because the studs are still the nearest combustible. A proper ventilated wall shield is what is required. This can be made with cement board and tiled or veneered with thin stone. I suggest having a certified chimney sweep install the chimney and connecting the stove once the wall shield and hearth are built.

Jotul F118b manual
https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/jotul-stoves/
Here is a primer on wall shielding
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/wood-stove-wall-clearances-primer.147785/#post-1987380

PS: One method for making spacers attaching the cement board is to make long 3" wide strips of 1/2" cement board and double them up on the studs to create non-combustible spacers on which to attach the cement board.

 

[BlackBetty06]

Thanks for that information! So if I understand correctly. I can make double cement board strips to screw to my existing wall and studs. Then screw a piece of cement board tall enough to cover the height of stove to the strips leaving a 1" minimum gap to the floor at the bottom of the fire wall and then a stone veneer??

The little picture on the back of the stove calls for 36" wall clearances, which if I understand correctly I will be able to put that within a minimum of 12" of the fire wall. Unfortunately it doesnt show where to measure from on the stove. Maybe I missed that part in the reading. I am thinking I will probably have to run insulated stove pipe from the stove up to get the proper clearances from the stove pipe to the wall.

 

[begreen]

Correct. Insead of ceramic spacers you can make 1" thick firring strips attached vertically to the studs to act as spacers. The wall shield must be open at top and bottom by at least an inch. This facilitates the free flow of air behind the wall shield which keeps the combustible surface behind it much cooler.

Measure 12" from the back corners of the stove (dim C in the illustration). You'll need to connect the stove with double-wall stove pipe to maintain proper clearances. Single-wall stove pipe has a clearance requirement of 18". You could shield the single-wall with pipe shields or carry the shielding up in the area behind the pipe, but double-wall stove pipe is a simpler and better quality option.

 

[BlackBetty06]

Begreen, it looks like the photo is from the install manual for the new F 118 CB. I would assume all the clearances would be the same for new and old WITHOUT heat shield. If I looked correctly though doesn’t it indicate the stove has to be further than 12” from the fire wall in a corner installation? I’m hoping the 12” is correct because otherwise that thing is going to be out in the middle of the room! I really hope this can work out because this stove is in mint condition and will really add to the living room rather than having it live in the basement

 

[begreen]

Yes, the shot is from the new version. I am going by NFPA 211 permitted clearance reductions which is a 66% reduction from an unprotected wall. I think you'll be fine with a proper wall shielding. This is how our F602 was installed and behind the wall shield stayed quite cool.

 

[BlackBetty06]

Awesome. Im gonna haul the stove up out of the basement and set it in the living room so I can see exactly what Im dealing with. Then its off to build the hearth and hopefully be ready to burn by October.

 

[BIGChrisNH]

That is such a nice find, I'm jealous. Those stoves have an excellent reputation. Can't wait to see pictures

 

[BlackBetty06]

(broken link removed)

Would a cement board like this qualify for what I am planning to do? I found in the old Jotul 118 user manual that along with the clearances listed NFPA 211 should be followed, so to me that means the 66% reduction of the 36" can be followed as listed in NFPA 211. Im going to build the hearth floor protection with 2 layers of the above listed cement board as long as its legitimate and then put a layer of ceramic tile on top for the finishing. I will put a single layer of board with the appropriate 1" min around both sides of the stove (corner installation) and go over that with ceramic tile for the finish. I will cut small pieces to finish the vertical side openings so there isnt a big gap visible from the sides and obviously keep the top and bottom OPEN with 1" minimum space between the walls and minimum 1" gap up from the floor protection. Then i will get the company that sold and installed my coal stove to install the metal chimney through the ceiling and the roof. Sound like a plan? Thanks for all the help and the answers to the half repetitive questions. Just want to make sure I do it right the first time!!

 

[begreen]

I'm not sure what the version of Hardibacker Lite uses to lighten the product. The last time I checked for regular Hardibacker it was cellulose. Durock NexGen uses pumice. A 1/2" sheet of Durock NexGen has an R value = .39. To be safe and code use 3 layers (1.5") for the hearth. The wall details sound good.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DUROCK-Next-Gen-1-2-in-x-3-ft-x-5-ft-Cement-Board-172965/202263276