Jotul #3 - Should I Stay or Should I Go Now??

[edthedawg]

Hi all - I'm back from a long recess from woodburning. I reckon it's been nearly 4 years since I was last here. A lot's changed in my life but that's all for another time - I'm happy to bore you with all those gory details elsewhere

Anyways - the main reason I'm here is because I know this group can help me out with my newest acquisition - it looks like a 1985 Jotul #3. I picked it up off Craigslist today and while it's in surprisingly good condition, I hadn't exactly noticed the true age on the plate when I scampered over to get it.

The basic setup: New house is a very well insulated WW1-era cape-style, and we only need to heat about 1500 sq ft at most. We only go thru a tank and a half of oil each winter. I've had 6 cords seasoning in the shed for years now, so my fuel supply is ready to go. Whatever stove we use is intended to be fairly central on the main floor, where I expect to build an oversized hearth and protector wall (we have no fireplace and can't jump into the existing single-flue chimney). I am expecting to go out the living room wall with triple-wall pipe, connect to a cleanout Tee, and then a braced vertical exterior run up from there.

Pix attached.

Questions:

• Should we even bother with this stove? Or just turn around and try to re-sell it and not hopefully not lose too much $$?
• If we are OK to use this appliance, can someone please help me find a good exploded parts diagram? It really looks like there should be a top baffle plate inside it, and it sure doesn't have one.

Thanks all - looking forward to spending a lot more time back here with y'all!

Funky new software y'all have here...

Stove front:


Stove 3/4 side:


Stove data-plate:

 

[Defiant]

See if this link helps you, just click on Jotul for manufacturer and 3 for model.
(broken link removed)

 

[edthedawg]

Ah yes that's great thanks! I see the log retainer is missing, but no top baffle plate. Cool.

 

[begreen]

Welcome back! It's a nice little stove, but if the intent is to heat 24/7 I would get a larger stove with longer burn times. Wait a few weeks and you should be able to get $600 for it.

 

[edthedawg]

Yeah we would be wanting long term heat. Reselling this one for $600 would be good. I'd love recommendations. The house and space don't call for something size of my old Heritage - we'd be roasting. At the same time, money is uber-tight.

Thanks for having me back!

 

[Defiant]

Thanks for having me back!

You are more than welcome
Nothing wrong with roasting

 

[begreen]

If money is tight, look for an entry level 2 cu ft EPA stove from Century, Englander, Drolet, Napoleon (Timberwolf) or Pacific Energy (True North).

 

[edthedawg]

I like that Englander 1.8 cu ft stove at Homers... that might be the answer.

 

[begreen]

It's a good little heater. Mind the hearth insulation requirements.

 

[edthedawg]

Another option would be to NOT do all the work myself, and hire out the entire job. Mainline Heating Supply is right down the street from us, and they sell Regency, Hampton, Hearthstone, Harman, VC, and Dutchwest.

I'll pay thru the nose, but I won't be spending my evenings and weekends doing all the work...

 

[begreen]

You could also buy a hearth pad and pay an installer. But Recency makes good solid stoves.

 

[edthedawg]

Any recommendations on how best to proceed with the chimney build-out? I'm a reasonably accomplished crafter/renovator type, but I don't speak fluent chimney. I know that with instructions, I can build anything but as mentioned above - time and money are both in short supply. Looking for grounded thoughts on the matter - thanks.

 

[begreen]

Here is a starter article to read: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/installing_a_woodstove
M&G DuraVent has excellent installation instructions for the chimney on their website. Click on the literature tab for their docs.
(broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/Product.aspx?hProduct=1)

Describe what you are planning to do for a chimney. Post pictures of the proposed installation site and chimney pathway.

 

[edthedawg]

It'll have to be a Type 2, "out and up", regardless of what stove is used.

House is WWI-era cape-style, original clapboard wood siding, and the installation wall is the gable-end, which has a deep eave. So the chimney will require me to make a cut-out in the eave.

Second issue: Massive maple tree nearby, maybe 20-25 feet off the house. Branches extend to the region of the chimney, but not directly over. If that truly needs 10 feet min separation, I've got another expensive problem to address there.

I'll snap some pix of the area later - might be later in the week tho.

 

[clr8ter]

How about a Jotul Oslo? Pick one up on CL used......For us, we had a guy install our pipe. Into a fireplace, and all the way up the flue. I'd never do it myself, mostly for insurance reasons. It did cost us a mint, almost double the $1200 stove. Going through a combustible wall, and part of the roof would make me even more nervous.