Jotul 602 top baffle location?

jjc Posted By jjc, Nov 7, 2018 at 7:31 AM

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  1. jjc

    jjc
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    Nov 7, 2018
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    hi, I have acquired a 602, not sure which model, but has the solid metal door with the circular vent. Cleaned up, removed and retapped several screws.

    My question: The top baffle location is shown in the spec drawings I have found online - cupped side down and against back wall - with the vent out the back. If I vent through the top, does the baffle location change?
     
  2. DAKSY

    DAKSY
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    No. It remains in the same location for both types of venting, in order for it to burn correctly.
     
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  3. begreen

    begreen
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    That is the original F602. Is there a UL tag on the back?
     
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  4. jjc

    jjc
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    The door is solid with circular vent. The front has only 602 on it. The baffle is solid metal. On the back there is a 2"x4" raised plate that had info on it, but I dont have it here to get details.

    thanks
     
  5. begreen

    begreen
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    Great little stove. Make sure that the baffle is seated snuggly all the way back.
     
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  6. jjc

    jjc
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    Thanks for the help!

    Not sure if a new thread, but I have the 602 in a cabin which I hope to use often, but more likely it would probably be only dozen times or so.

    My question: there is a small crack in back. Its fairly tight when cold and about 4" long.

    I thought about replacing back piece, but wasn't sure if it was worth it.

    Suggestions?
     
  7. begreen

    begreen
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    It should be replaced. Contact your local Jotul dealer. Be sure the baffle is in good condition and not warping. If it warps it may no longer seal snuggly at the back of the stove. This lets hot flue gases to bypass the baffle at the rear of the stove and can overfire the back.

    FWIW, our F602 developed a hairline crack in the back when run one winter by some housesitters. That was a bummer, the back was less than a year old and enameled. At the time for a short term repair I modified the stove by adding a steel burn plate at the rear of the stove under the baffle. I rubbed furnace cement into the crack and watched the crack closely. With the added firebox shielding the crack stayed stable and we made it through the next winter. The stove is now in our greenhouse and just gets fired up a few times per winter. The crack remains ok, but I didn't want to risk issues in our house.
     
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  8. DAKSY

    DAKSY
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    Speaking from a machinist point-of-view, the FIRST thing I'd do is to
    stop the crack from propagating...Drill a small hole thru the VERY end
    of that crack, & get rid of that sharp point...Small enough that it'll do
    the job & small enough to patch with furnace cement.
    Then I'd put that steel plate in there. Go to a local steel yard
    & ask for their scrap bin. You just might find something close to size.
     
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  9. peakbagger

    peakbagger
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    There are folks who rip apart old Jotuls and list the parts on Ebay.
     
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