Jotul 602 What is it worth

[Cutter]

I have had this little Jotul 602 for at least 25 years. It has just been stuck in my shop doing nothing. It was installed in a small apartment where it was found to be just too hot to use. It was operated for less than two months before I traded some work for it. I always thought that it would end up in my new house. Well the house is all but done and I have never found a place for it. So I guess it is time to be rid of it. It has some very minor rust on steel parts that do not have enamel on them. And also on a few high points of the cast lion. I am thinking of putting it on Craigs List and am wondering from you all what might be a fair asking price. Of course it weighs more than most folks are willing to pay for shipping. So it will have to go to a local buyer. I live in NE Kansas with rather small demographics. Plus not many people around here have ever heard of Jotul.

What do you think? Brad

 

[begreen]

I'd have to see the condition of the back of the stove and the interior burn plates. If there are no cracks in the back and the interior burn plate are not warped or cracked, I'd say it's worth $350-450. You'll get more if you sell in October. I have the identical little stove in dark red. Love that little fella.

 

[mariacw]

Is this stove pre-catalyst? Just curious.

 

[Cutter]

Yes, it is pre-catalyst

 

[daisy123]

I bought one a couple years ago for a couple hundred bucks. It was cracked big time. Piece of crap.

 

[webby3650]

I paid $200 for my Jotul 118 in the green enamel, it had no cracks but it was missing the side burn plates. Since yours has all the parts $300-$350 would be a fair price .

 

[Hiram Maxim]

How do the newer ones work?

How does it create secondary burn?

Thanks

 

[begreen]

In the newer model they added a secondary air tube under the baffle to accomplish this. Visit precaud's exploration of new materials for lining a stove. He used a newer 602CB for a test model.

The older models had a baffle that forced the exhaust gases to the front where they picked up some reburn combustion air rounding the baffle. If you burnt dry wood, it could burn remarkably well. I never saw smoke except when refilling and our flue didn't build up creosote. The small firebox meant frequent refills, but it could put out the heat.

 

[Hiram Maxim]

BeGreen,

Thanks for the info!

 

[precaud]

Also remove the burn plates and examine the inside of the side panels for cracks. Many a 602 has been burned without the burn plates installed and that will crack the side panels.

Around here the older 602's go for $200-300 on craigslist. The newer F602's for not a lot more... I listed mine last Nov for $475 and go no bites...

 

[trouba]

Is your stove still for sale?

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

I'd have to see the condition of the back of the stove and the interior burn plates. If there are no cracks in the back and the interior burn plate are not warped or cracked, I'd say it's worth $350-450. You'll get more if you sell in October. I have the identical little stove in dark red. Love that little fella.

Just found this old thread on the Jotul 602, some great info. I just picked up a 1979 602B for $100. Both the side burn plates are cracked at the hanging holes and the rear plate is also cracked horizontally. Still not sure why Jotul didn't produce a rear burn plate for this model. I have the stove in pieces in my workshop, almost all the bolts agreed with me, will have to drill out and retap a couple.
I'm going to use this stove as a backup to my Oslo, which I use for primary heat. The 602 will hopefully handle the short fall and spring burns. I have read plenty that the 602 needs often attention to fll the small firebox. Just looking for some quick heat to last a few hours until the sun kicks in.

As of now looking to replace the rear plate and make some home made side burn plates to replace the current ones.

Any suggestions on steel thickness and aftermarket Jotul 602 parts???

Thanks...

 

[Battenkiller]

Any suggestions on steel thickness and aftermarket Jotul 602 parts???

I replaced the side baffle plates on my 118 about 5 times in 18 years. I always used 1/4" steel plate. They lasted about three years before starting to warp, then they burned away rather quickly as the warped part in the center moved closer and closer to the center of the firebox. I heated this whole place for almost 20 years with that stove, so I burned it hot as hell all season. They would last a very long time in a stove used as you intend to use yours.

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

Blue, I have heard that some folks use various types of materials as side plates (ie: firebrick, steel). I'm actually leaning towards getting some brick and making them fit tight to the bottom burn plate. Not sure how long they will last vs. 1/4" steel.
Let me know what you think.

D

 

[begreen]

The 602 should be a fine shoulder season burner for you. I am a little confused by the reference to the rear plate being cracked. Do you mean the back of the stove? If so, a new back can still be ordered and should be put in. Then, I would add a rear burn plate which will have to be fabricated. I used 1/8" steel. For the side burn plates and baffle I have only used Jotul parts, but only have had to replace them once so far.

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

Green, thanks for your input. The rear plate, also referred to as the back plate by the Jotul 602 parts list, is cracked. I commented earlier that Jotul did not produce a rear burn plate for this model so it seems as if this back plate took some direct heat from the burn. That is the part I am looking to replace by jotul at this time. The side burn plates, or possibly brick, I'd like to do myself. I'd also like to fabricate some kind of rear burn plate to take some of the abuse of having nothing there at all.

 

[begreen]

My concern with fabricating one's own plates would be achieving a nice snug fit between the sides and the top baffle and achieving a good seal at the back of the stove, particularly for the top baffle, which must be curved to fit around the flue exit. The side plates would be easier in this regard.

The back of the stove can crack from overheating. This often is caused by letting the upper baffle plate go too long to the point where it warps and or cracks. When that happens the seal under the rear flue exit is compromised allowing flame to travel directly up the back of the stove. This can crack or burn out the back. I learned this the hard way and had to get a new back from my dealer for the stove. After that happened I installed a 10 ga? steel plate inside the stove at the back to act as a sacrificial burn plate. The results were very good at lowering the back temp on the stove.

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

My concern with fabricating one's own plates would be achieving a nice snug fit between the sides and the top baffle and achieving a good seal at the back of the stove, particularly for the top baffle, which must be curved to fit around the flue exit. The side plates would be easier in this regard.

The back of the stove can crack from overheating. This often is caused by letting the upper baffle plate go too long to the point where it warps and or cracks. When that happens the seal under the rear flue exit is compromised allowing flame to travel directly up the back of the stove. This can crack or burn out the back. I learned this the hard way and had to get a new back from my dealer for the stove. After that happened I installed a 10 ga? steel plate inside the stove at the back to act as a sacrificial burn plate. The results were very good at lowering the back temp on the stove.

Green, I agree with you on the side plates, they appear to be something that I can fabricate myself to mimic the original. The upper baffle is factory on this stove and still in good shape. The upper baffle also looks like something that you would have to have because of it's shape and function. I think it would be difficult to make. One of my concerns is the rear burn plate, not quite sure what I need to do yet to manufacture one. I think brick is out, would probably take up too much space on an already limited spaced firebox.
The stove is currently in pieces, cleaned the parts this afternoon. Will be ordering the new back plate tomorrow. Hopefully I can have this all together in a couple of weeks for use this fall.

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

Green, I agree with you on the side plates, they appear to be something that I can fabricate myself to mimic the original. The upper baffle is factory on this stove and still in good shape. The upper baffle also looks like something that you would have to have because of it's shape and function. I think it would be difficult to make. One of my concerns is the rear burn plate, not quite sure what I need to do yet to manufacture one. I think brick is out, would probably take up too much space on an already limited spaced firebox.
The stove is currently in pieces, cleaned the parts this afternoon. Will be ordering the new back plate tomorrow. Hopefully I can have this all together in a couple of weeks for use this fall.[/quote]

forgot to ask one thing. Where is the placement on the upper baffle should I choose the stove top exit for the flu? Space is limited and I want to keep the stove as close to the rear wall as possible.

 

[begreen]

I made a simple steel plate back and used a nut on the #10 screw to space it from direct contact with the stove back. The whole thing just uses up about 1/4" of firebox space. I'll try to post a picture. Not the greatest shot, but you can see the plate in the back. Getting a bit rusty, the stove has been in the garage for several years. Needs cleaning too!

Where is the placement on the upper baffle should I choose the stove top exit for the flu? Space is limited and I want to keep the stove as close to the rear wall as possible.

That didn't come out quite right. Does your stove have the flue exit in the rear like the green one a the top of this post? If so, it is rear-exit. You could use double-wall pipe and a wall shield to reduce clearances. Maybe start a new thread on this with some pictures of the stove and the location it's going to be installed at.

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

I made a simple steel plate back and used a nut on the #10 screw to space it from direct contact with the stove back. The whole thing just uses up about 1/4" of firebox space. I'll try to post a picture. Not the greatest shot, but you can see the plate in the back. Getting a bit rusty, the stove has been in the garage for several years. Needs cleaning too!

I love the idea of how you made the rear heat shield, I'm going to try and mimic what you have done. It looks as if you actually rounded the burn plate to the baffles shape in the picture.

Where is the placement on the upper baffle should I choose the stove top exit for the flu? Space is limited and I want to keep the stove as close to the rear wall as possible.

That didn't come out quite right. Does your stove have the flue exit in the rear like the green one a the top of this post? If so, it is rear-exit. You could use double-wall pipe and a wall shield to reduce clearances. Maybe start a new thread on this with some pictures of the stove and the location it's going to be installed at.

My stove has two exit options (pictures to follow soon) an exit on the rear top and the rear back. The picture in the beginning of this thread shows a decorative cast top that is an optional piece. I don't have that. I ordered my replacement back panel thursday, should be in sometime next week. Going off to the steel shop monday to pickup some cut off 1/4 scraps. I'd like to make the new side burn plates and use your idea on the rear burn plate this week.

One other thing, I have seen in some other threads on this model stove that it may be a good idea to insulate above the baffle. I have some leftover rockwool from my construction work and think that may do the job. Is this something you did with your 602?

Thanks

 

[begreen]

No, I haven't put anything on top of the baffle. If you do it should be thin enough so as not to be restrictive. I'd try burning without out the blanket for a while until you get used to the stove. It has no problem burning quite hot. We never saw smoke from our flue after the stove was warmed up and when I took down the flue pipe it was very clean.