More Jotul 602 questions

[ConorIRL]

Hi there. Moved into a new house back in November that came with an old 602. Was very excited as we had a 606 in the house I grew up in.
I believe it's one of the 1972-87 602 versions, but not sure. No glass door. Schematic below is accurate but I don't have the decorative top.

I've read many of the threads on here, with great advice, thank you. I have it broken down and I'm going at it with the wire brush, it's in good shape in my opinion. No visible cracks, side burn plates and top baffle unwarped and uncracked. Have a couple more specific questions for the refurb.

Hardware - Want to replace the bolts from the inside, quite rusted. Schematic shows cheese heads, it had hex heads in it. Hex head seems better to me, less likely to strip(though one did). Is the conventional wisdom to stick with the cheese heads or do most people switch to a hex head? Any grade recommendation?

Cement for seams - Looking at Home Depot, I only see furnace or fireplace cement, no "stove" specific cement on their site. Is furnace cement ok or should I keep looking for "stove" specific?

Paint - any specific recommendation? Looking to keep it black

Bottom Burn plate - Not sure if I have one? The pic below is not mine, but mine looks the same, though cleaner after the wire brush. Am I missing the bottom burn plate? In the schematic I see #34 but no listing in the bill of materials. Is that the under blanket I've read about? Also read recommendations to put a layer of sand in the base. I work at a metal shop so have access to steel plate if that helps or saves me money. I'm not sure the best course of action, please let me know your thoughts?

I have a cord of seasoned wood ready to go and chimney work lined up to add a flue for the stove. I want to be sure to get it right enough to have this stove last many more years.

 

[begreen]

The pictured base is missing the bottom burn plate (35) and insulation that sits under it (34). Can you post a picture of your stove's interior?
Rutland Furnace cement is good for sealing the seams.

Furnace Cement

RUTLAND Black Furnace Cement is ready to use and easy to apply for bonding and sealing metal to metal or metal to masonry joints.

rutland.com

 

[D. Hermit]

There is no bottom burn plate or blanket in orginal 602s. Just that wavy bottom that you are supposed to leave covered with ash or sand.

The bottom burn plate you see on the schematic was for UL listed 602s from the early 80s. Which his is not. And those ones had no insulation under them as well. Only ones that had the insulation under them are the new F602s.

As far as the screws, no cheeseheads are in the schematic for those interior bolts, they are flanged hex bolts, or use a normal hex bolt with a 6mm fender washer.

The only cheeseheads on this stove are for the handle attachment on your stove, and if it was a UL stove, the knob would have a cheesehead as well.

 

[begreen]

The one shown has the bolt casting stub with an untapped hole for holding down the burn plate. Our 602 has this, but it's threaded and the bolt holds down the burn plate there. I think ours is a 1984 stove.

 

[D. Hermit]

The one shown has the bolt hole for holding down the burn plate. Our 602 has this.

The schematic does because its a hybrid schematic of the UL listed and a non UL listed. The picture of his bottom plate itself has no such hole. You see where the hole would be, but it is not drilled and tapped. Therefore was a non UL listed model. Most likely just something they put in the patter as they planned for in the future of getting it UL tested.

 

[begreen]

Yes, but he said the picture is not his stove. He should check to see if the stub is threaded on his stove. Or if there is a UL label on the back of the stove.

 

[D. Hermit]

Yes, but he said the picture is not his stove. He should check to see if the stub is threaded on his stove. Or if there is a UL label on the back of the stove.

I see that now. I think we really need more pictures of the door/front and bottom plate of his stove so we can figure out if its a UL model or not.

But ive seen plenty of non ul models have that little hump there and its just not drilled or tapped. Which makes me think those were just overlap years where they made both, or like I said, just them updating patterns to get ready for the UL launch.

 

[ConorIRL]

Here are some pics. Does this help decipher the bottom burnplate issue?

 

[D. Hermit]

Yep.

Here are some pics. Does this help decipher the bottom burnplate issue?

View attachment 315147 View attachment 315148 View attachment 315149 View attachment 315150 View attachment 315151 View attachment 315152 View attachment 315153 View attachment 315154 View attachment 315155

No L shaped handle, no threaded bolt hole on that bottom. It is definitely a non UL model, so no bottom burn plate. Just keep those ribs on the bottom covered with ash or sand. And grab some fresh burn plates/baffle off Woodmans if you need so you protect the sides of the stoves.

Oh and they did use cheeseheads to attach the feet, I forgot about those ones. Id just steal em for other projects and replace w hex heads and washers since no one will be looking under the stove haha.

The firebox bolts themselves are still not cheesehead, flange hex head, or I prefer hex head w 6mm fender washer. Not the huge fender washers, medium ones. I dont have the exact size with me at the moment.

 

[begreen]

Yes, earlier pre-UL version. I think a bottom burn plate could be added for extra protection and a cooler hearth. This would require drilling and tapping the stub and adding a layer of kaowool under the burnplate.
Are the baffle and side burn plates in good condition or do they need to be replaced?

 

[ConorIRL]

The plates seemed in good condition. I will be doing more cleaning on those but there was no obvious cracking or warping.

The stove will be going into what was formerly an open fireplace with full brick surround, if that makes any difference.

 

[begreen]

The plates seemed in good condition. I will be doing more cleaning on those but there was no obvious cracking or warping.

The stove will be going into what was formerly an open fireplace with full brick surround, if that makes any difference.

In that case, just be sure to put an inch of play sand in the bottom of the stove before using. When cleaning out ashes, leave an inch on the bottom.

 

[ConorIRL]

Great, thanks so much for all the help

 

[ConorIRL]

The firebox and hearth that I'm placing this jotul 602 into is not level. See the photos in back, there is a dip left to right(approx 1/2inch) as looking at the firebox and a dip from back to the front(approx 3/4 inch)

The base is stable and does not rock as currently in place in the picture. How important is it for the stove to be level? Any suggestions on how best to shim the feet if it needs to be level? The firebox and hearth are two different types of brick, from circa 1800.

 

[ConorIRL]

Remeasured, I way overstated. Probably just 1/8inch left to right, and almost probably 7/16 back to front

 

[ConorIRL]

and the pics!

 

[Todd]

Not sure how it would effect the burn but I’d shim it with some washers under the legs to get it close just for cosmetic reasons. Maybe if it were a newer model it may effect the air flow through the secondary baffle not being level?

 

[TWoods]

I agree. Shim with washers. I'd paint them black (or get black ones) so they are not noticeable. The only concern I would have is the the shimming is stable and that you have your stove assembled with screws (at least 3 per joint). If they stove rocks while lit, you don't want glue gasses pouting into the house.

Good luck. 602s are great little stoves. And replacement parts are plentiful (though not "cheap" - they are cheaper than new stoves).

T.

 

[ConorIRL]

Having an issue with the draft regulator and airflow plate on either side of the door. After reassembling the door, I can't seem to get the air flow plate to sit still on the door unless I tighten the screw and nut all the way, which then causes the draft regulator to stick. I seem to remember the draft moving freely and the air flow plate sitting in place before I took it apart. Am I missing a washer somewhere perhaps?

Final product in place below. Thanks again, very happy with how it turned out.

 

[begreen]

Tighten the draft wheel screw until it sticks, then back off the screw just a tad to maintain tension while not too tight.