What do you all think of this stove? I have another thread with all the details for my planned install.
Jotul f-45 Greenville.
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Here’s the link to the other threat
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Husband wants to install a wood stove for emergency heating in our old smallish farm house.
We have an older home, and the basement is unfinished. The home is insulated, but not air tight. We have new double paned windows 2 years old. We live in Central Iowa with winters that have periods of sub zero degrees Fahrenheit. We have talked to a chimney sweep and 3 different people who work...
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The old version. Several years old on showroom floor. Can I cook on it? The manual says that once the top reaches 400-600f to close down the air. That sounds hot enough to cook to me. When I looked it over, I noted a batting, between the holed secondary burn plate and the exterior cast iron top. Would that batting keep the temp too cool for cooking medium heat needs?
Yes, you can cook on it. Look up previous threads on this stove for more perspective.
There is an insulating baffle blanket but I believe the smoke and heat go over that as the fumes head toward the flue outlet. The stovetop will be plenty hot enough to cook on.
PS: Get a flue thermometer and go by that for air control instead of the stovetop temp. Stovetop temp takes longer to respond with a cold stove. The stovetop temp might only be 250º when started from cold, but the firebox is hot enough to support secondary combustion.
There is an insulating baffle blanket but I believe the smoke and heat go over that as the fumes head toward the flue outlet. The stovetop will be plenty hot enough to cook on.
PS: Get a flue thermometer and go by that for air control instead of the stovetop temp. Stovetop temp takes longer to respond with a cold stove. The stovetop temp might only be 250º when started from cold, but the firebox is hot enough to support secondary combustion.
Sold! I bought this just now! Old floor stock about 1-1/2 years old. I Love It! It feels soooo good to touch and work the handle and air intake lever .
I think you will love it. When moving it, put a square of plywood under the feet, then slip an appliance dolly's lip under the plywood. Put a blanket or cardboard over it to protect it and then ratchet strap it to the dolly. When moving downstair get a couple of capable helpers. Or pay the stove company to deliver it there!
Begreen, thanks for the tip. We have a very good dolly, and a nephew that is 6’8” that can help. I now have to clean the basement! Lol. Need to figure out how to plug the hole chimney hole and put a new one in the chimney around the side from the abandoned hole.
I can give you the number for my chimeny sweep dude, if you’re interested. He does all that stuff...
With a stainless steel liner installed plugging the old hole is mostly cosmetic.
I want to thank Stinkypickle for sending me on this mission to look at stoves! He told me about an Osburn, but it ended up too big to navigate our stairway. The Jotul, was sitting next to it, and I made a bid, the shop counter bid, then I bought it. Thanks Stinky
And thanks for the lead information on the sweep. I will message you!
And thanks for the lead information on the sweep. I will message you!
So you don't think it will weaken the chimney structure to have 3 holes on 3 sides of the chimney? The hole next to the propane furnace can't be reached to patch. I thought patching the exposed hole would maintain the integrity of the chimney stack.
I'm ok with the opening esthetic.
Congratulations!
If it's anything like the F55, which I think it is, many parts can be removed easily to making moving less awkward.
We had the whole stove stripped down to the stainless steel box, moved it inside, and then back together in a little over an hour.
This allowed myself and my 62 year-old dad to carry it around.
If it's anything like the F55, which I think it is, many parts can be removed easily to making moving less awkward.
We had the whole stove stripped down to the stainless steel box, moved it inside, and then back together in a little over an hour.
This allowed myself and my 62 year-old dad to carry it around.
That is great to hear. We are not adversed to taking things apart and putting them back together. Begreen had some good moving tips too.
I want to thank Stinkypickle for sending me on this mission to look at stoves! He told me about an Osburn, but it ended up too big to navigate our stairway. The Jotul, was sitting next to it, and I made a bid, the shop counter bid, then I bought it. Thanks Stinky
I ain't gonna lie. If I had known they had that Jotul, I might have snagged it earlier.
Rosem, do you have any more info regarding taking it apart? What type and sized tools did you use. I have a small metric ratchet set, up to 11mm. Does it need a large ratchet set? I am planning on picking it up tomorrow and would like to take it apart at the shop. Wrap the cast iron in blankets, set them in the bed of the truck, and stand the steel box. Does that sound reasonable?
Anyone else have experience with this?
How much soot and dust does this stove create? If it were in the living area, would it cause a sooty layer on my walls? Or is that the old school stoves that did that?
You see where this is going....
You see where this is going....
No wood stove new or old should do that. If they go there are some serious problems. Coal can do that but it should only be from coal dust not from actually burning it.
I don't remember exactly but it was only 1 or 2 sizes.
We used an allen wrench a lot too. I think most of the bolts had Allen heads on them. Again I don't remember exactly though.
You'll need a pair of needlenose pliars too to get the retaining rings off the bolts that hold the door on.
Have a look at the manual on the Jotul website (being sure to check v1 and not v2). There is a parts breakdown at the back.
With the bricks and all the pieces out you'll need a ton of blankets to have everything covered. It was a lot of pieces that came off, along with screws, etc...
I transported mine in one piece as the shop had a forklift to load me. Then we took it apart in the back of my truck to get it down and into the house.
What is nice is that most things came off with just a few bolts, with nothing being too intricate.
We used an allen wrench a lot too. I think most of the bolts had Allen heads on them. Again I don't remember exactly though.
You'll need a pair of needlenose pliars too to get the retaining rings off the bolts that hold the door on.
Have a look at the manual on the Jotul website (being sure to check v1 and not v2). There is a parts breakdown at the back.
With the bricks and all the pieces out you'll need a ton of blankets to have everything covered. It was a lot of pieces that came off, along with screws, etc...
I transported mine in one piece as the shop had a forklift to load me. Then we took it apart in the back of my truck to get it down and into the house.
What is nice is that most things came off with just a few bolts, with nothing being too intricate.
This video gave me the idea to break it down to carry it. You can see how easily two guys can move this otherwise 500lb stove around. The other guy seems to work for Jotul North America.
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