Jotul Firelight 12 CB (not the catalytic version) - rebuild questions

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Sun_Lover

New Member
Jul 1, 2015
4
Wilderness, BC
We had this stove, Jotul Firelight 12 CB (not the catalytic version) , a blackish flat color, in our house when we bought it, and removed it to install a fireplace as opposed to a stove. (We used it a few times, and it was very efficient. Just took too much space in the location it was situated.) We had to take it apart to get it out of the house. The four sides we could keep together (so it's essentially a box on legs) but we took the guts and top off. We kept and labelled all bolts & parts, and everything seemed in pretty good shape - no cracks, warps, etc.

We'd like to sell it, and are putting it back together. I've read a few "rebuild" posts on these forums and am confused about a few things:

(1) I notice a lot of people comment about cementing when re-assembling. But we didn't break any cemented joins when we disassembled it - just took apart a bunch of bolts. What might need to be cemented as we put it back together that wasn't cemented to start with?

(2) Some people have noted cementing in the new gasket ropes, but the old ones all come out easily - don't appear to have been cemented. Some of them are crumbly, though, so we thought we should replace them to sell the stove. Should the new ones be cemented in?

(3) The exterior color is a flat blackish with an almost brownish undertone. (Not rust - there appears to be almost no rust anywhere on it. It's just this almost-black color.) I think repainting it in a black stovepaint would be too stark. I have read about using stove polish instead. Would that be a good idea?

We have the original manual with the exploded drawing if we get stuck (it's been a long time since we took it out, and our feeble aging brains have forgotten anything we did with it before . . .) so any clever ideas to avoid being idiots would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Magda
 
If I remember right. The sides are all cemented together, but the top is gasketed. If the top was taken off without securing the sides together with a racket strap then the whole stove likely needs rebuilt. It's a pretty big undertaking.

It was painted with Stove Bright Flat Black originally. Stove polish was never used on these stoves, and hasn't been used on any stoves for many many years. I do not recommend it.

If it's a non cat, it would be a Firelight F-600.
 
Thank you. Another, perhaps silly, question. (If so, please spare the laughter.) I have bought Stove Bright paint. Read instructions. Do I only paint all the exterior of the stove, or do people, after steel wooling and cleaning the inside pieces, paint them as well? And what about the inside of the body of the stove - does it get painted?

Thanks very much, again.

Magda
 
Just the exterior gets painted. Mask off the glass areas or remove the glass first. Please paint this outdoors or in a very well ventilated location like a garage. The fumes are very strong and can cause brain damage.
 
Last edited:
Also, after shaking the can very well shoot it at something you don't care about. A clear catalyst will come out before any paint.
 
Glass removed, cleaned, will paint outside after shooting first. Especially as I haven't a clue how many doddering brain cells I have left, and need to preserve every last one. Thanks a lot - you guys are great!

Magda
 
Hello Magda- When putting a Jotul back together, the gaskets except under the glass panels in the doors are cemented in. If only the top was removed, I would put a bead of new furnace cement in each corner groove, and up at the top corners where the top affixes onto the stove. Replace the top plate gasket and bolt it back down as well. The secondary burn manifolds and burn tubes (if they all are in good shape) should already be sealed, but at the back where the manifolds connect to the secondary air chamber, that connection should be furnace cemented. Don't forget the insulating blanket on top of the burn tubes (it sits on top of the cast iron baffles which fit in between the air tubes on top). After a good sweep down with a paint brush, I always blacken the inside castings with paint, to give it a more new-like appearance and kill any smells inside of the stove. Don't forget the ash door gasket. All that's left is a good coat of flat black paint, it sounds like you have a painted black Firelight. Treat her right, a new one goes for about 2850 MSRP.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.