Jotul or Hearthstone Soapstone & the correct size?
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BTW - Do you think the outside air vent is a good idea for the Shelburne? (my cabin is pretty air tight)
How about the back Heatshield? Does the tin of the shield tweak and squeak (make noise) as expand and contract - or are they silent? Would the heatshield help push the heat towards the living room vs out the back and into the fireplace firebox that the stove sits in front of?
How about the back Heatshield? Does the tin of the shield tweak and squeak (make noise) as expand and contract - or are they silent? Would the heatshield help push the heat towards the living room vs out the back and into the fireplace firebox that the stove sits in front of?
The Shelburne is a beauty but it will not burn low like the Keystone. Heating will be similar to the Lange so you may still be opening a window which will supply ample outside air. The rear heatshield would not be needed in this configuration unless you wanted to add the blower option. Would blocking off the fireplace opening with a sheet of metal be an alternative if the concern is about heat loss?
Would smaller fires be an alternative so the Shelburne wouldn't blast us out? I could rig up some sheet metal, but "if" the heatshield accomplished helping keep the heat forward, instead of into the fireplace - the heatshield would be easier and cheaper, and it would probably look better. Maybe it wouldn't actually matter, if the stove is a bit big anyway?
The Shelburne will heat about the way the Lange heated. The Shelburne may also need a chimney extension if rear-vented. The heat shield is to improve wall clearances, blocking off the fireplace opening is inexpensive and will do a better job of keeping the heat in the room. It can be painted black to be less noticeable. In lieu of that you will need to install a damper area sealing block-off plate to prevent heat loss up the chimney cavity.
I sealed off the damper area with a heavy stainless sheet with insulation on top years ago, so heat loss "up" the flue is minimal. I sent photos of my existing chimney to a mason who is evaluating adding more cinder blocks to make the chimney taller.
Right now, from the top of the Shelburne, I'll have a total of about 10' 6" of chimney (3' of indoor chimney pipe from the stove to the 90° elbow & 7' 6" of actual brick & mortar chimney. Do those two figures equate to a 10' 6" chimney, or do I count "only" the brick & mortar length when trying to meet the 13' minimum that the Shelburne wants?
Shelburne says 13' minimum. Do I only need to add 3' to fit their minimum? Would it be a good idea to add more because of the two 90° bends?
The two 90º turns rob about 4 ft from the total height regarding draft. The Lange is not too fussy about this, but the Shelburne wants at least 13'.
Right now, do I have 6' 6" considering the two 90's (36" from stovetop to the 1st 90º + the actual brick & mortar chimney, minus 4' because of the two 90's)?
Adding 8' is a task, especially when cleaning. If we didn't use the block chimney, but installed a completely new double insulated indoor stove pipe connecting to a Class A pipe in the attic and going up those additional 8' - can those metal chimneys be cleaned from the bottom? I don't really want a chimney sweep on my roof with a ladder that high up with the danger factor and messing with the shingles.
Is there a stove pipe setup so one can move the stove, insert brush & rod and bag the end of the indoor pipe to clean from inside - bottom up?
Yes, they can be cleaned from the bottom with either a slip section of stove pipe connected or with some stoves it is very easy to remove the baffle and to clean straightup through the stove. Sooteater rods are quite flexible and can make this an easier task.
If my stove pipe guy can do this, the stove would not be against the brick wall area where of the fireplace. It would be next to a 5/8" sheetrock wall. Would the heatshield be good in that case, so the back of the stove could be closer to the wall? Are people still making/using those wonderboard and tile heat deflectors? It's been a long time since I thought about them, but I'm thinking that we used to put them about 1" from the wall, and 1" or 2" up from the floor. Would making one of those make it so the stove wouldn't have to be out from the wall very far?
That would be a wall with an NFPA wall shield. This is all listed in the manual. The Shelburne manual has complete tables that list clearance options including for an NFPA 211 shielded wall.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
Then how the heck are you supposed to ever use a rear vent? Seems to be the intended installation out the back to a tee and then up. Maybe they just like top exit stoves and begrudgingly sell rear exits to satisfy the marketing department. Lots and lots of rear exit stoves are hooked to liners in fireplaces.
Our F400 was connected rear vent to an elbow and then straight up. It was connected this way to increase corner wall clearance. The stove drafted well with temps below 45º. Above that you needed to be careful when opening the door to avoid smoke spillage, but it still burned well. If one has a 2 story insulated liner it should work ok.
electrathon
Minister of Fire
I am betting they don't have this information in writing anyplace. It would be impossible to use a rear vent without a T or 90 on the back.
Just returned our brand new hearthstone could not get it to warm up enough I froze
Got the summit and the difference was like nite and day
We had been heating with a jotul for 14 years wanted to try something different the soapstone sounded great because we never let our stove go out
We just struggled No Heat
The summit was a nice easy start and nice heat
Just my experience
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I absolutely love my little Hearthstone. That said, I would never think of using it 24/7. It is nice looking, it throws great flickering flames around for a better than TV experience, and after the fire dies out it radiates for a while. The heat radiated after the fire dies out makes up for the slow warm up.
It is not very efficient. I pitch in wood more often than i like. However, I do believe it is more of a mood elevator, cheery evening type of stove than a brute dead of winter heat source. It is a nice addition to the BK King, takes the chill off on a rainy dreary day, is easy to light, draws well and is problem free. In 9 years I doubt I have run a cord through it. The BK has averaged 6+ cords a year for those same 9 years.
It is not very efficient. I pitch in wood more often than i like. However, I do believe it is more of a mood elevator, cheery evening type of stove than a brute dead of winter heat source. It is a nice addition to the BK King, takes the chill off on a rainy dreary day, is easy to light, draws well and is problem free. In 9 years I doubt I have run a cord through it. The BK has averaged 6+ cords a year for those same 9 years.
I use my Hearthstone stoves 24/7.I go with the larger ones for my needs.They give off heat even when the fire burns down.My in pipe dampers give me longer heat times enough that when I get up in the morning there's enough coals and heat to keep everything toasty during my reload.So I don't have to worry about bring the stove up to temperature.The larger of my stove works well in the basement against negative pressure since it stays so warm after the fire burns down that it still produces a good draft after 14 hrs of heat that all I do is fill her up and We're good to go.A smaller soapstone won't burn as long and may cool off too much after you wake up that you'll have to wait for the heat build up and that will be a pain.
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
We, just installed an F400, hearth mounted top vent, direct to 15’ of insulated liner. We are at sea level in south east North Carolina. On a cold start or with wet wood and if I opened the door quickly we get a little smoke spillage. I would say it’s about the same as my father-in-law’s F400 that is rear vented to 30’ of 6” liner in Maine. If you fling that door open smoke is coming out. Crack it for 10 seconds, leave it an inch or two open for another 10 count and open slowly you will get very little. Mine drafts well once it’s warmed up and starting a top down fire with plenty of news paper really helps warm up the flue and get it drafting when it’s not very cold. I talked to my installer about venting into the masonry 8x13 and he wouldn’t do it. So both professional F400 installs I have personally seen were lined all the way up. I’m sure that’s not a coincidence.
I just did a little draft test. It’s breezy and 60 outside and 68 inside. The draft was pulling the flame and smoke inside and up. A little swirled our at the top corners of the door. Looked really pretty good to me.
Im glad I listened to the professional. The liner wasn’t cheap but it sure drafts well now. And I don’t have to worry about the integrity of the 50+ year old masonry ever again. My experience with F400’s has been been very positive. FWIW.
Evan
I just did a little draft test. It’s breezy and 60 outside and 68 inside. The draft was pulling the flame and smoke inside and up. A little swirled our at the top corners of the door. Looked really pretty good to me.
Im glad I listened to the professional. The liner wasn’t cheap but it sure drafts well now. And I don’t have to worry about the integrity of the 50+ year old masonry ever again. My experience with F400’s has been been very positive. FWIW.
Evan
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