JTWall EKO 25 Nozzle Plate

[woodsmaster]

The middle, and espically the bottom corners off the refractory still wear. I patched my nozzle a year ago to extend its life. The top still looks like it did when I patched it, the corners are wearing off the bottom.

 

[Tennman]

Perfect timing. I'm going to cut a nozzle plate tomorrow after I measure my old nozzle tonight. From the Engineering Toolbox website Melting Points: Inconel 2600F, Steel - 2600-2800F, Stainless Steel - 2750F. Not clear from melting point if Stainless would last longer. It may... but melting point doesn't seem to be an advantage. BTW Inconel does have excellent high temp material properties, surprising that the melting point is just not way higher.

From Metals Online: 1/4" steel $23 for 12"x12"; 1/4" 304 stainless $67 for 12"x12". So you can cut 3 steel nozzles for the price on one stainless. I have some 1018 steel plate laying around I think I'll try. I doubt stainless will last 3 times longer than steel. Be fun to experiment. But for about $60/season I can cut a new nozzle protector.

I've found Rutland 600 castable refractory cement online for my nozzle repair. Any suggestions for something better? The Rutland is the best I can Google so that's the basis of my experience.... zippo, nada.

 

[MarkW]

Being as this is the first season on my 60, I'm very interested in protecting the nozzle. After reading the link to the original JTWall post, I realize that I've got a piece of 1/4" 304 tread plate in my office busily doing nothing. Approximately large enough to make 2 protectors. My question being, what special tooling if any do I need to get through the 304?

 

[JTWALL]

Being as this is the first season on my 60, I'm very interested in protecting the nozzle. After reading the link to the original JTWall post, I realize that I've got a piece of 1/4" 304 tread plate in my office busily doing nothing. Approximately large enough to make 2 protectors. My question being, what special tooling if any do I need to get through the 304?

It depends on what you have planned. For larger holes, you should have a stout drill press, cutting oil, and of course sharp bits. Smaller holes tend to snap drill bits if you are too aggressive. 304 is pretty tough stuff.

 

[MarkW]

Very good, then. I've got the press available, just wasn't sure about the hardness of the 304. Thanks!

 

[JTWALL]

Very good, then. I've got the press available, just wasn't sure about the hardness of the 304. Thanks!

Suggest slowest speed the drill press has and plan on a lot of smoke from the cutting oil!

 

[mr.fixit]

The middle, and espically the bottom corners off the refractory still wear. I patched my nozzle a year ago to extend its life. The top still looks like it did when I patched it, the corners are wearing off the bottom.

This is true,while extending the life of the nozzle,the bottom portion will eventually need to be replaced.

I was thinking of just casting a new nozzle in place during the next off season.
Seems it wouldn't be to difficult to get the old nozzle out. After it's out,block up the bottom opening,use some plastic tubing to form the air passages and some foam board to form the nozzle opening.Then mix and pour.
Maybe use saran wrap between the new and old so as the old doesn't draw the moisture out of the refractory mix to fast.
Probably would be a good idea to do when the boiler isn't needed for some time to allow the mix to cure slowly.

 

[Nofossil]

I recast mine using that technique. My process (done in the off season):

• Clean away all the crumbly bits to get to a solid base
• Soak the remains of the existing nozzle - pack with rags and saturate with water. Let sit for a day or so.
• Wedge a piece of 1" blueboard against the 'ceiling' of the bottom chamber, covering the nozzle area. This form the bottom of the mold.
• Cut another piece of 1" blueboard to the desired dimensions of the nozzle opening.
• Cut foam plugs and insert them in the air passages.
• Insert the second piece of blueboard through the nozzle and against the piece that forms the bottom surface of the mold.
• Mix up some refractory goop - I made it a bit runnier than recommended.
• Pour it in and work it carefully along the sides of the blueboard insert. Trowel the top surface smooth.
• Let it cure with damp cloths on it - two or three days.
• Remove the blueboard.
• Build a short, small fire the first time.

My recast nozzle is in service now with no issues to date.

 

[Tennman]

Great tips Nofo. I wouldn't have thot to wet before and after. I was just gonna blow it clean. The Rutland 600 refractory stuff shows up Friday. I'll let ya'll know how it goes.

 

[Nofossil]

I'm now looking through my scrap pile for some 304 stainless.....

 

[huffdawg]

This may sound funny but I think I have only emptied my top chamber once a year for the three years iv'e owned it and I have burned year round. Don't seem to get much accumulation. Maybe the soft wood?

Huff

 

[JTWALL]

This may sound funny but I think I have only emptied my top chamber once a year for the three years iv'e owned it and I have burned year round. Don't seem to get much accumulation. Maybe the soft wood?

Huff

Dido, except I do a good cleaning at the end of each heating season and I know that the boiler will not be used for several months.

 

[Coal Reaper]

regarding drilling holes in stainless:
if your hole is big enough to warrant a hole saw, you can pack crushed ice into the hole saw to keep it cool and lubricate.

 

[woodsmaster]

Great tips Nofo. I wouldn't have thot to wet before and after. I was just gonna blow it clean. The Rutland 600 refractory stuff shows up Friday. I'll let ya'll know how it goes.

That is what I used. It worked pretty good