Just bought a used Harman P68

cpetku

New Member
Dec 24, 2019
9
Clarkston MI
Other than basic cleaning (as found on the web) is there anything else I should do such as oiling motors/bearings?

I was told the unit has two seasons on her and is SN HF3037XX. Paid $2000 assuming it was like new. It came with basic 3PVP pipe and fittings but only half a thimble. Tested in my garage and all seems to work like it should so I have a new thimble with OAK on order. Hopefully the CV doesn't shut down delivery services.

One other question, when using the Duravent 3PVP-XXX (with silicon seals) do most self installers use black furnace cement? The duravent instructions implies this is optional.
 

Nitro-Fish

Burning Hunk
Feb 5, 2009
123
VA
The tape Ssyko is talking about works well, you'll have to cut it off (not hard at all) since it works by stretching & sealing to itself, but it sure is easier to get apart if you ever need to down the road.
I'm not sure what cleaning from the web you are talking about, but be sure to check the fines box & clean out the igniter area under the burn pot. You should get many years of trouble free service so long as it gets a thorough cleaning every year (both the stove and the flue piping).
You'll want to get a good surge protector for it, and maybe a True Sine Wave UPS or battery back up system depending on how long you'll need to run if you lose power. I have generator back-up & only need long enough to change over so I use a TSW UPS.
Enjoy it!
 

SciGuy

Burning Hunk
Aug 17, 2007
169
Constableville, NY
Other than basic cleaning (as found on the web) is there anything else I should do such as oiling motors/bearings?

I was told the unit has two seasons on her and is SN HF3037XX. Paid $2000 assuming it was like new. It came with basic 3PVP pipe and fittings but only half a thimble. Tested in my garage and all seems to work like it should so I have a new thimble with OAK on order. Hopefully the CV doesn't shut down delivery services.

One other question, when using the Duravent 3PVP-XXX (with silicon seals) do most self installers use black furnace cement? The duravent instructions implies this is optional.

While you've got easy access, I'd take a good look at the distribution blower's wheel to see it's accumulated much dust, pet hair, etc. The whole unit is easy to pull. There are just two bolts that secure it plus two spade connected electrical wires and and a bolted ground wire. A single hex screw secures the blower wheel to the motor shaft. Depending on the environment the stove was previously used in, the blower wheel may be anywhere from pristine to horrifyingly packed with gunk. I'd also pull the ESP and give the whole exhaust pathway a rigorous cleaning. This will give you experience removing the ESP to check and clean it and allow a much safer deep clean of the internal exhaust.

You got a good deal price wise and the stove and will really enjoy it for year or perhaps decades to come.

Hugh
 
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Washed-Up

Burning Hunk
Nov 5, 2011
163
Kananaskis,Alberta, Canada
Might as well check the fines box on it too...pretty sure its in the same location as my P61

 

cpetku

New Member
Dec 24, 2019
9
Clarkston MI
While you've got easy access, I'd take a good look at the distribution blower's wheel to see it's accumulated much dust, pet hair, etc. The whole unit is easy to pull. There are just two bolts that secure it plus two spade connected electrical wires and and a bolted ground wire. A single hex screw secures the blower wheel to the motor shaft. Depending on the environment the stove was previously used in, the blower wheel may be anywhere from pristine to horrifyingly packed with gunk. I'd also pull the ESP and give the whole exhaust pathway a rigorous cleaning. This will give you experience removing the ESP to check and clean it and allow a much safer deep clean of the internal exhaust.

You got a good deal price wise and the stove and will really enjoy it for year or perhaps decades to come.

Hugh
Thanks, I have it all apart right now and will be cleaning everything.

I bought the Harman thinking I could remove the hopper then remove a plywood subfloor panel and use an electric winch to pull it straight up to the second floor. Wrong! Even after field stripping it of all motors and electronics, I just didn't count on the exhaust pipe being so long and being welded to the box. I got it even with the bottom of the floor joists when I realized if I tried angling it, it might get hung up causing a very dangerous situation trying to free it from underneath.

So why not pull it up the stairs you ask? It's a spiral staircase with 26" wide clearance and I'm too proud to ask for help from friends who are older and weaker than myself knowing they can't lift a 200# frame and I can't push it up the stairs either.

The solution: After field stripping the unit, place it on a handled dolly and strap her tight. Remove the cap from the center post on the spiral and install a come-along between the pipe and the dolly. Slowly crank it up and rebalance as you go since it will want to swing into and jamb up on the railings. When the come-along has wound up all it's line, hook the second come along ( you did remember to bring that upstairs with you right as the stove is now blocking the only exit path to the mechanics tools...) to a spot lower on the hand cart and place a strap around the stove and center spiral pipe, lift it up another foot. then hook something else to balance it while you remove Come-Along 1 and reposition it to a solid toggle screwed into a floor joist (don't the small tool hanger holding a woodworking hammer). Heave, haul add a lever or two as necessary to get the wheels onto the the top plate of the spiral then pull her into place.

Changing an ignitor or auger motor is nothing compared to simply placing the unit where it will be used...

Before I forget, and the final step before cleaning and re-assembly, replace the small tool hanger and put the word working hammer back...

:^)
 

Nitro-Fish

Burning Hunk
Feb 5, 2009
123
VA
You must really want a pellet stove! Is the stove going in a loft or just the main level of a home (or an upstairs room)? If a loft or an upstairs room, I understand the one way up, but if on a main level (at least in my area) the building codes make you have more than one means of egress.
 

cpetku

New Member
Dec 24, 2019
9
Clarkston MI
This is a second floor workshop in a garage. I custom built this 15 years ago instead of adding a pole barn. Initially designed so when it makes sense I can add an indoor staircase to connect the additional rooms and finish it off. Everything passed code when it was built because it was not living space. In the winter I've run a kerosene torpede heater (150K) on the first floor of the garage and pointed it towards the staircase. Heat rises and it warms up (slowly). That setup is expensive to operate and risky due to no venting for CO.

While looking for pellet grills this winter on CL, I saw a pellet stove and got the bug to install a safer heating method. I chose used to save a few bucks and first looked at an old St Croix Prescott (my first post). Decided against it and read up on the Harman burn system. Made sense so I waited till one became available at a reasonable price.

Picked up a decent hearth as well. At least this went up on the electric winch without issues.

Placement was a bi--h today, but I got it up (as described) without incident. It s all back to being assembled except for a couple of gaskets. The stove looks pretty simple after taking it apart.

I have a thimble with OAK on order as well as new gaskets for the exhaust pipe and burner weldment. Hopefully these arrive Saturday and I can finish up the install.

The next question is connecting Dura PeletVentPro pipes to the exhaust fitting. The PO gave me all his pipe and there was no appliance adapter. I think his installer used an adjustable pipe section in place of the adapter. Since I have the exhaust nipple off I looked at how it fits and it seems to make sense that this can be used this way but I'm not convinced. The nipple slides into the exhaust nipple and may seal with it's silicon gasket. However I can't guaranty the o-ring on the PVP is compressed. It would seem if you applied a little extra high temp silicon there would be no issues.

Is what I'm describing a legal use of an adjustable 3PVP-12/18 section? I can't find anyone recommending this using the search tool.

It may also be I've found the answer at: http://www.duravent.com/docs/product/pvp_harman_adapter_web.pdf

If not then it looks like I'm going to be delayed installing the thimble while I wait for an adapter and 12-18" normal pipe (locking devices on both ends.
 
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cpetku

New Member
Dec 24, 2019
9
Clarkston MI
I have the ADHB adapter on order. I don't see any restrictions in the installation manual against fitting the adjustable pipe to this then sealing he joint with silicon tape. I also understand I can't use it for the adjustability feature. otherwise I'll have the same problem (venting inside the outer jacket) as I'm trying to avoid by adding the ADHB. This is about the only way I can see to make this serviceable (disassembling pipe) if a fan goes out in the future and the stove needs to be moved. Any comments?

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cpetku

New Member
Dec 24, 2019
9
Clarkston MI
I had to change the vent design to achieve 12" to inner corner of a room. The only question left is should I direct vent horizontally or add a short vertical section inside for a little draft (~24"). It probably makes more sense to direct vent and consider a longer exterior vertical in the future if necessary. The required clearance to the window seems to be 12" when using outside air.

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