Just Made A Huge Blunder With Measurements

[ambull01]

I've been looking at my 30-NCH and messing with the baffle boards. Scraped off the adhesive and slid the boards around to see if I have a gap. The boards refuse to cooperate when I try to slide them back so I slid them toward the door. There's a small gap towards the rear of the stove which I'm planning on fixing with BB's instructions.

Now to my freaking huge blunder. I was so concerned with the stove fitting under my lintel that I somehow forgot my fireplace has wood trim around the opening! So, when I slide this huge beast into my chimney's firebox, the clearance from the top of stove to the wood trim up top will only be about 4" from the lowest trim point! Do I need the cut out the wood trim to make this work?

 

[begreen]

Bummer. Sounds like surgery may be necessary. Got a picture?

 

[webby3650]

Ya, 4" is really close. I'm a little concerned that the wood trim was that close to the opening to begin with. A picture would be helpful.

 

[Jags]

Yeah - 4" ain't gonna cut it.

 

[ambull01]

I posted a pic of my fireplace a while back, have to figure out how to find my previous posts. So at 4", there's no type of wall shield that will suffice right?

 

[Jags]

In general if I remember correctly, when wall shields are allowed (this is specified by MFG) the clearance is usually halved. So no, 4" still doesn't meet the clearance requirements unless otherwise stated by your manual.

 

[ambull01]

Okay found my previous pic that @begreen lightened up for me.

That's the old insert so the NC-30 is a lot taller. Don't mind the galvanized pipe, I'm going to do it right this time with a SS liner.

 

[ambull01]

In general if I remember correctly, when wall shields are allowed (this is specified by MFG) the clearance is usually halved. So no, 4" still doesn't meet the clearance requirements unless otherwise stated by your manual.

Yeah that's what I was thinking. I remember seeing the clearances posted here from begreen I believe. Clearances looked to be halved with shields. I hope removing the wood trim isn't a huge endeavor.

 

[quotejso]

That's pretty wood trim could you just extend the hearth and use a tee?

 

[ambull01]

That's pretty wood trim could you just extend the hearth and use a tee?

I wish. the NC-30 only has a few inches of clearance for the exhaust opening on top and the lintel. I could get the optional legs but I don't think that will be enough to use an elbow (is that what you meant vs a tee?). Damn I wish my installation was simple.

 

[Highbeam]

I think he means to pull the NC out of the fireplace. His stove is rear vent so a tee in back allows that option easily. NC is top vent so no go.

We've all seen those metal mantle shields but they aren't going to resolve a 4" issue.

 

[ambull01]

I think he means to pull the NC out of the fireplace. His stove is rear vent so a tee in back allows that option easily. NC is top vent so no go.

We've all seen those metal mantle shields but they aren't going to resolve a 4" issue.

Well at least I have a reason to use my sawzall. Hopefully I can at least spruce up the opening with red brick or something after I remove the wood paneling.

 

[mellow]

The only other option with a top vent like that would be to pull it out of the fireplace and install a thimble up above.

See if you can sell the wood trim on Craigslist, hopefully it pulls off easily.

 

[Highbeam]

Are you able to get the side clearance to that side wood? I'm sure there's a fancy east coast name for the vertical side mantle supports but we use rock out west.

 

[ambull01]

Are you able to get the side clearance to that side wood? I'm sure there's a fancy east coast name for the vertical side mantle supports but we use rock out west.

I took a preliminary measurement last night (stove is not sitting in the chimney yet). The clearances will not be to the manufacturer's specs. I'll have to remove the side and top wood paneling.

 

[mellow]

Pull the whole mantle and sell it as antique like these:
(broken link removed to http://easternshore.craigslist.org/atq/5247613104.html)
(broken link removed to http://easternshore.craigslist.org/atq/5220078399.html)

 

[ambull01]

Pull the whole mantle and sell it as antique like these:
(broken link removed to http://easternshore.craigslist.org/atq/5247613104.html)
(broken link removed to http://easternshore.craigslist.org/atq/5220078399.html)

Yeah that's a great idea if I can get it off without destroying it. I have a tendency to be a bit rough

 

[Corey]

ooof.. Ya, that is some pretty wood trim...obviously from back in the old days when you could get away with it. Doubt that would be modern code even for a fireplace. Downside is wood that old is probably crazy dry and ready to light up at any time, so getting it out of the picture would be in the best interest of you and the house.

If 'renovating' you could always go back with some type of tile, rock, brick, etc - but that would seem to be a shame. Any chance to have a second hand store where you might be able to find a suitable cast iron mantle? ...I believe they made those for a period. If you really want to stay as close as possible to 'authentic', I guess you could carefully pull the wood down and make a mold, then cast that shape in light weight plaster / stone / concrete. That would replicate the look as close as possible and give you the fire-proofing you need.

 

[ambull01]

ooof.. Ya, that is some pretty wood trim...obviously from back in the old days when you could get away with it. Doubt that would be modern code even for a fireplace. Downside is wood that old is probably crazy dry and ready to light up at any time, so getting it out of the picture would be in the best interest of you and the house.

If 'renovating' you could always go back with some type of tile, rock, brick, etc - but that would seem to be a shame. Any chance to have a second hand store where you might be able to find a suitable cast iron mantle? ...I believe they made those for a period. If you really want to stay as close as possible to 'authentic', I guess you could carefully pull the wood down and make a mold, then cast that shape in light weight plaster / stone / concrete. That would replicate the look as close as possible and give you the fire-proofing you need.

Yep, house was built in 1891 lol. I'm not really too concerned about making it look period/style correct. I can spruce it up later. Just need to keep myself, family, 2 dogs, and three cats from freezing to death.

 

[quotejso]

I think he means to pull the NC out of the fireplace. His stove is rear vent so a tee in back allows that option easily. NC is top vent so no go.

We've all seen those metal mantle shields but they aren't going to resolve a 4" issue.

Yea I forgot it was top vent good luck.

 

[ambull01]

Well I just freaking destroyed the mantel lol. Tried to take it off gently but the damn thing had huge nails securing it into red brick. I kind of like the red brick fireplace look but my wife is a bit pissed with me. Oh well, I'd rather have her mad with me vs worrying all the time about burning my house down. I'll just have to look for a metal mantel that will fit my chimney and all will be well.

Has anyone chiseled out their chimney's damper frame? I think I would rather do that if it's not too difficult vs squeezing the liner/stove pipe into an oval to get it to fit through the damper opening.

 

[Jags]

Has anyone chiseled out their chimney's damper frame?

Usually it is cut out with an angle head grinder with a cutoff wheel or a sawsall.

 

[ambull01]

Usually it is cut out with an angle head grinder with a cutoff wheel or a sawsall.

I see. Is the metal plate frame usually long (lying along a whole roll of bricks or just cemented in place)? I have a sawsall, just need a metal cutting blade.

 

[mellow]

The idea is to cut enough out of the damper to get the liner through.

 

[Jags]

It could be of a couple of different designs, but usually the frame extends into the brick/mortar work. Cutting it out is less sledgehammer-y.