Kent tile fire

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

Nbourque

New Member
Jan 16, 2019
29
Maine
I have an older Kent stove that I’ve been using for the last 5 years. I’ve noticed an issue lately with the damper not opening and closing smoothly only when the stove is hot. I’ve read the previous threads on the issues with these but I’m wondering if the puck on the inside is indeed warped is it possible to just install a damper on the stove pipe? Or will this style of stove not run correctly with a generic style damper? Thanks.
 
I have an older Kent stove that I’ve been using for the last 5 years. I’ve noticed an issue lately with the damper not opening and closing smoothly only when the stove is hot. I’ve read the previous threads on the issues with these but I’m wondering if the puck on the inside is indeed warped is it possible to just install a damper on the stove pipe? Or will this style of stove not run correctly with a generic style damper? Thanks.
Can you stick your head in the stove, close the damper and have a look? The rod of the damper might be stuck. I have had this issue also with my Kent. Lubricating it with graphite powder helps in most cases.
 
Can you stick your head in the stove, close the damper and have a look? The rod of the damper might be stuck. I have had this issue also with my Kent. Lubricating it with graphite powder helps in most cases.
Take a look from the top of the stove where the pipe comes in or literally inside the stove?
 
If the puck is not flat, but bend, it is a sign of warping. If not, you're okay and the rod is the culprit. Lubricate it with graphite powder. Available at Lowes and HD.
 
The puck is so solid, it won't get warped that easy. Pull the rod all the way out and lubricate the entire length with graphite powder. Push in and out a few times. Do this once every year.
 
The puck is so solid, it won't get warped that easy. Pull the rod all the way out and lubricate the entire length with graphite powder. Push in and out a few times. Do this once every year.
Oh that easy to lubricate huh? No need to take the stove pipe off? Thanks again.
 
So will this stove run just fine if I installed a damper in the stove pipe?
Why would you do that? How tall is the chimney measured from stove top? That stove has a damper and unless you have extreme strong draft I don't think you need a second one. I should use the stove as it is designed.
 
Why would you do that? How tall is the chimney measured from stove top? That stove has a damper and unless you have extreme strong draft I don't think you need a second one. I should use the stove as it is designed.
I only ask because if the puck is indeed warped I could install a damper on the stove pipe and not use the damper on the stove. I believe the puck is warped because it is becoming increasingly difficult to close the damper in when the stove is running hot. No issues with the damper when the stove is cooled down.
 
I see, but after you checked you mentioned it wasn't warped? If you want to bypass the stove damper, I guess you need a pipe damper to avoid heat loss. It might be possible that the top of the damper is very dirty. If the chimney has been cleaned and the top of the damper has not been vacuumed, it will be difficult to close it. I would check that first. Disconnect the pipe from the stove and see if there is any debris on top and around the damper.
 
I see, but after you checked you mentioned it wasn't warped? If you want to bypass the stove damper, I guess you need a pipe damper to avoid heat loss.
It’s hard for me to tell if it’s warped or not. I would need a damper to control stove pipe temps. Can’t imagine running a stove with no damper?
 
It is hard to imagine that the very solid steel damper is warped. IMO if your baffle is not warped, the damper won't be. The baffle goes first. My best guess is debris. You also can clean it by opening the damper and stick a vacuum hose into the whole and vacuum 360 for a few minutes. Most debris will be gone.
 
It is hard to imagine that the very solid steel damper is warped. IMO if your baffle is not warped, the damper won't be. The baffle goes first. My best guess is debris. You also can clean it by opening the damper and stick a vacuum hose into the whole and vacuum 360 for a few minutes. Most debris will be gone.
How can I tell if the baffle is warped?
 
It is the chamber on the top of the firebox, with the drilled holes in it. A warped baffle looks like this.
201101-3daf6078e64db240e8d8272e526ee49f.jpg